2G DSM 2G AT to MT swap wiring help / anything else I missed. Apologies I really did try to search the forum, youtube, service manuals.

[kolsund]

Apologies in advance. I really did try to read and watch and read and watch...

So here is my situation..

My daughter drives a 1997 Eagle Talon Body TSI over a Eclipse GSX AWD Turbo frame. 5 M/T.

I bought it from a solider friend I know who built it from scratch with his son over a few years. When I bought the car he was more concerned with finding the right person to care for it not so much making a profit..

I had to replace the starer in the car last week. I pick all my parts from performancepartout or rixracing or extremepsi. They are all phenomenal outfits.

So.... I replace the starter motor and the alternator. Go to crank it and it just cranks... As I am tracing and tracing cables upon cables and diagrams... The car was originally a automatic... At first i thought maybe it was just a automatic wiring harness but the TCM is still there so it must have been at one point in its life a automatic.

I must have ripped some jumpers out in my zest of changing out the starter. Its cold outside and well its cold outside....

In either case.

I am looking for clarification from the community of experts on my way ahead.
1 The Automatic anti theft relay is still in the hole.. ( I'm going to leave it there as i am told it really doesn't do much and is functioning.)
2 Cut the Light Green Black wire to the ECU out of the Auto Anti Theft Relay.
3 At A101 in the ending bay jump PIN 7 and 8 for the 2.0 Turbo what should be Black/Red wire and Black wire.
4 Unplug the TCU from the wire harness what is way down in the middle console near the firewall in the interior.

Oddly enough the reverse light wiring i didnt rip out and it still functions i believe so i dont need to fuss with that maybe just clean it up.

Am I missing anything. I wont pretend that I have been doing this for 20 years because I havent. I did however really try to figure this all out on my own so any thing I missed please help me out so I can get my daughters car back on the road.

Thx

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[pauleyman]

Fill us in here. Is this a running driving car and all you did was replace the starter? Or is there more to this no start story?

 

[kolsund]

Fill us in here. Is this a running driving car and all you did was replace the starter? Or is there more to this no start story?

it was running until the day the starter died.
i did replace the a starter. It cranked a few times but I got a bad used part. It was cold when bolted it on and the wing bolt hole on the starter cracked. The starter came loose. I was pretty careful torquing it down. But like I said it is cold as hell outside.

it the 4 or 5 seconds it was cranking I couldn’t hear the fuel pump pushing anything. I checked that working with a multimeter. Looks good. So my belief is that in my zest of pulling out the old starter and dropping in new I must have pulled some of the wiring out the previous owner did.

performanceparts shipped me another starter. That’s a good outfit for those looking for 2nd hand parts.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Turn the key on and rotate the engine by hand. Everytime the crank trigger plate passes the crank sensor it will trigger a rpm and turn on the fuel pump for a second. If that works then you're getting a good rpm signal. Next you can check if your coils and injectors have power to them.

As far as I know the transmission isn't part of the anti theft system. If you unplug the transmission on an auto but leave the selector switch still plugged in, the engine will still crank up. If you remove the selector switch it simply won't let the starter work at all.

Normally anti theft systems will allow an engine to start but then shut off after 2-3 seconds.

I would double check all the basics first before trying to change any wiring.

 

[kolsund]

I’m pretty sure I pulled the park neutral bypass what won’t let the car turn over from what I read. Like I had it cranking but i feel the fuel pump Form what I can read the fuel pump relay only kicks if the jumper is in to trick the car it’s in park.

Turn the key on and rotate the engine by hand. Everytime the crank trigger plate passes the crank sensor it will trigger a rpm and turn on the fuel pump for a second. If that works then you're getting a good rpm signal. Next you can check if your coils and injectors have power to them.

As far as I know the transmission isn't part of the anti theft system. If you unplug the transmission on an auto but leave the selector switch still plugged in, the engine will still crank up. If you remove the selector switch it simply won't let the starter work at all.

Normally anti theft systems will allow an engine to start but then shut off after 2-3 seconds.

I would double check all the basics first before trying to change any wiring.

I’ll give this a wirl if my plan comes up dry.
Turn the key on and rotate the engine by hand. Everytime the crank trigger plate passes the crank sensor it will trigger a rpm and turn on the fuel pump for a second. If that works then you're getting a good rpm signal. Next you can check if your coils and injectors have power to them.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Or you can just bump the starter and listen for it. Turn key to start for only longer enough to turn the engine a few rpms then quickly release and listen for fuel pump noise

 

[kolsund]

Or you can just bump the starter and listen for it. Turn key to start for only longer enough to turn the engine a few rpms then quickly release and listen for fuel pump noise

Yea it wasn’t going. It was working. Even when the starter died there was a apexi turbo timer in it. When I would turn the key I could hear the walbo 255 turn.

the Problem is the turbo timer was all hitched up. It didn’t work right. So I ripped the turbo timer out under the dash and cleaned up the wiring.

I did check the pin outs on all the wires going in to the ECU. Don’t laugh my work. I didn’t get a chance to clean it up yet.

i used the super work from ecm tuning to check the wiring in to the ECU. I pulled it and checked the pins. Cleaned up any exposed wires from the turbo timer that was broken I ripped our.

i figured I would go back to stock . Throw in the starter and roll.

it only recently clicked that the car was at some point a automatic. I downloaded and installed ASA and checked the part numbers of the relays. Matched up the wire colors with the service manual.

so now. Once I replace he starter again And remind myself. It to torque it much at all in the cold. I would have had this all working by now but just my luck the damn starter I just broke it literally cracked at the metal on the starter. It was like 10F out with a windchill in the -5 range.…

so my game plan is to get back to where I was. Get the starter to crank again. Then do the steps to wire an auto to Be a manual. See where that takes me.

what I was looking for here was any other wiring or electrical steps that are needed to swap auto to manual that I missed. I can see the tcu still wired up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.