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Drop The Engine or Pull It

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nightstocker99

20+ Year Contributor
241
2
Aug 2, 2005
Saxonburg, Pennsylvania
OK so for those of you who have talked to me about what clutch a should get they know whats going down. ;) I am now at that point in time where I need some MORE help, LOL. Right, so my question is what is easier dropping an engine or pulling one out? While I am replacing my clutch and flywheel I would also like to replace the timing belt and the water pump and just replace items that need some TLC "Tender Loving Care" :thumb: . Also is there I website that can hook me up with some steps on how to do to. And if anyone here on the site can give me some steps on what to do too. ROFL

Thanks Brandon

:dsm:
 
I don't know about pulling a 2g, but on my 1g I tried to drop it out the bottom. I ended up pulling up. Another tip is to defiantly replace the bolts on the WP i didn't and ended up breaking it off in the block :mad:. But other than that good luck.
 
Pull it out the top is easiest. But it's capable of being dropped out of the car. Go pick up a Chilton's manual... you're going to need it.
 
Auto Zone, Checkers, Kragen, Bumper to Bumper, etc. etc. etc.
Any auto parts store should have them.

It's like a Hayne's except good.
 
I've always pulled them. I can have a 420A out of the chassis and on the ground in less than three hours. I doubt the 4G63T is that much more involved.
 
You broke the water pump bolts? They only tighten to about 15 ft. lbs I believe.
Anyway, I just did a rebuild on mine, pulled it out the top tranny and all. It was actually pretty easy. Used the old water pump bolts and they were fine (good idea to replace the pump itself however).
 
we just did this this morning, but we had no cherry picker haha. pull it out the top
 
hell.. i had to take my 89 probe apart by hand.. just hand a wrench and sockets... trust me without a cherry picker.. its a bi***
 
well its always a good time to do a good clean up.. its a must to check the CV joints.. good time to change tranny fuild.. also.. Do the engine rebuild right, set one full day for your self and take the time. I myself always replaced the following in engine rebuilds.. pistonRings.rodBearings
main.capBearings
(alot of times i like to get new forged pistons, and rods) go for a stroker kit if you want
and if i bore.. i really like to do something good for my motor.. and use cylinder liners

allGaskets & Seals
Belts
Plugs(for Jspec cars i pick NGK plugs and wirers)
Wirers
fuelFilter
replace studs
nuts
MSD blaster

depending on the year i replace every rubber tubing.. might as well pick your colors
get slovant to soak the bolts in the nite before you start the rebuild.let dry when you wake up. and also depending on the yar i do head work
if possible take your motor to a shop to have it boiled.cleaned

not to count things to do for trannys...

also.. to a good engine flush.. if you have a chiltons it tells you how..

its a good thing.. if you already have the motor out.. youll remember removing TWO large tubes off the fire wall.. (plus 2 for fuel) normallys the one on the PASSENGER side is the intake for the HOT water.. to the HEATER CORE.. and the driver side is the exit.. and normally 8psi is the most you want to go threw it.. so turn a hose on low.. and shoot water in the intake until it turns all clear.
IF the motor isnt out.. you remove BOTH raidator hoses.. drain it.. then shoot water into the water pump intake..until clear is comeing out the return
<other tubing you need to take off is power steering.. AC lines>


i also leave the wiring harness in.. so remove it off the motor.. and dont break anything look whats stoping it from going out.. and ROCK ON and my it pretty for the motor to go back in :dsm:
 
glish_dreams said:
well its always a good time to do a good clean up.. its a must to check the CV joints.. good time to change tranny fuild.. also.. Do the engine rebuild right, set one full day for your self and take the time. I myself always replaced the following in engine rebuilds.. pistonRings.rodBearings
main.capBearings
(alot of times i like to get new forged pistons, and rods) go for a stroker kit if you want
and if i bore.. i really like to do something good for my motor.. and use cylinder liners

allGaskets & Seals
Belts
Plugs(for Jspec cars i pick NGK plugs and wirers)
Wirers
fuelFilter
replace studs
nuts
MSD blaster

depending on the year i replace every rubber tubing.. might as well pick your colors
get slovant to soak the bolts in the nite before you start the rebuild.let dry when you wake up. and also depending on the yar i do head work
if possible take your motor to a shop to have it boiled.cleaned

not to count things to do for trannys...

also.. to a good engine flush.. if you have a chiltons it tells you how..

its a good thing.. if you already have the motor out.. youll remember removing TWO large tubes off the fire wall.. (plus 2 for fuel) normallys the one on the PASSENGER side is the intake for the HOT water.. to the HEATER CORE.. and the driver side is the exit.. and normally 8psi is the most you want to go threw it.. so turn a hose on low.. and shoot water in the intake until it turns all clear.
IF the motor isnt out.. you remove BOTH raidator hoses.. drain it.. then shoot water into the water pump intake..until clear is comeing out the return
<other tubing you need to take off is power steering.. AC lines>


i also leave the wiring harness in.. so remove it off the motor.. and dont break anything look whats stoping it from going out.. and ROCK ON and my it pretty for the motor to go back in :dsm:


I am not rebuilding the engine I just want to make sure everything that needs to be replaced is. I am not really sure what this items are:

allGaskets & Seals
Belts
Plugs(for Jspec cars i pick NGK plugs and wirers)
Wirers
replace studs
nuts
MSD blaster

so if you can tell me more about these items and what they do that would be nice. This is the first time I have done something like this so any extra info would be nice. Thanks

:dsm:
 
allGaskets & Seals - ie, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, the spark plug oring things, water pump gasket,etc

Belts - timing belt, serpentine belt

Plugs(for Jspec cars i pick NGK plugs and wirers) - spark plugs he is refering to the ngk brand

Wirer - spark plug wires (msd,accel, nology, etc)

replace studs - head studs hold the head to the block apr is a good choice

nuts - this im not to sure of

MSD blaster - this you cant cause we have a distributorless ignition system so unless you play to buy 4 of these and wire them up you dont need this
 
h3o said:
Wirer - spark plug wires (msd,accel, nology, etc)

replace studs - head studs hold the head to the block apr is a good choice

nuts - this im not to sure of

MSD blaster - this you cant cause we have a distributorless ignition system so unless you play to buy 4 of these and wire them up you dont need this

id go with ngk wires too.. APR studs.. there bout the only way to go..but in not talking about the studs to hold the head to the block.. im more talking about the exhaust and intake studs.. nuts.. normally youll get them in the stud set.. sometimes you wont...

and oh yea.. i forget they just have coilpaks.. my bad..
 
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