Do not use seafoam?

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Bought my eclipse gsx, bought a oil change (Pennzoil high mileage) 204K miles.

bought some sea-foam on sale for the gas tank. The genius at advance auto suggest putting a quarter bottle in the oil when i change it along with Lucas to solve my lifter ticking noise.

sound started ticking even louder while idle, while on my way to work the next morning the wrist pin sheared off number 1 cylinder causing a drastic drop in hp. i was trying to get up a hill and pull in somewhere then the rod somehow got rolled up with the rear balance shaft causing the oil pump pulley to lock up knocking a 2 X 4 hole in the back of the motor.

when the oil pump & pulley locked up the timing belt quit spinning ( thank god ) but the crank kept spinning and literally destroyed the gates timing belt i installed a week prior.

Also when the header was glowing bright red when i popped the hood, it was around 0645 in the morning. (had a highflow Magnaflow cat on a stock exhaust Wtf?)


i will never be using sea-foam ever again in any vehicle i own. (at least never in the oil)

Any Thoughts? bad experiences? i am not blaming this solely on sea-foam because i did have what a thought was a tick but was a knock.

it just wasn't that bad until i did this.

Rubber side down!

 

[nitroazz]

I am pretty sure that you should not add seafoam to oil. Oil compresses and lubricates. Seafoam does not.
I have never used it. I have read both sides of the argument and I stay away from seafoam and lucas additives.

Someone else will chime in soon tho. Good Luck.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Yeah, that is what i get for listening to a rocket scientist.

 

[projekt1]

I put 1/4 of the bottle directly in my oil fill cap this past Saturday and been daily driving without a problem. I only used it after I did a head, wp and timing job on a integra and my buddy used seafoam on his. After confirming no problems on his car I decided to use it. I'll probably use another 1/4 through my brake vac line as well. Again, I haven't had any problems yet but I am due for an oil change anyways which I'll be doing this Saturday coming up

Sent from my ATRIX 4G using Tapatalk

 

[bryanwheat]

You would be surprised how many people at parts stores recommend that people put seafoam in the crankcase. The bottle actually tells you that it's ok to do, but you are supposed to drain the oil after letting it idle. I would never run any cleaner in the oil. It is just going to dilute it and break it down in my opinion.

 

[Silver99OZ]

On the can it recommends adding 1/3 to the gas tank, 1/3 into the intake through a vacume line, and if you want you can add 1/3 to the oil in the crank case, but you must change the oil immediately after running through the engine cycles as per the instructions on the can. You are not supposed to add it to the oil after performing an oil change.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Dang it!

Man i feel like a damn artard, but the guy checked me out buying a oil change.

Should read the can! Not listening to a guy that works off a computer....

 

[96' Eclipse GS]

I personally work at O'reilly's, and i have never recommeded anyone put Seafoam in their oil...but i do personally use Marvel's Mystery Oil...you can put it in anything to do the job...For example, Replace a quart of it with your 4 quarts of oil when doing an oil change and run it until your next change...a lot of stuff on the self is the same, but you do find the odds that work...for Future advice...and for the "Pennz"...i would change only because back in the day Shell's formula...used Parrafin that caused build up and sludge if not changed fequently.....FYI....hopefully you get a second opinion next time at a parts store..

 

[blkgst97]

On the can it recommends adding 1/3 to the gas tank, 1/3 into the intake through a vacume line, and if you want you can add 1/3 to the oil in the crank case, but you must change the oil immediately after running through the engine cycles as per the instructions on the can. You are not supposed to add it to the oil after performing an oil change.

^^^this! It is supposed to be drained and the oil changed right after.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Seafoam is petroleum based, I believe, so it will not cause damaged to say - adding it to the combustion process. You can also actively add it to your oil for a short period of time.

The usual method for this is -

Turn on vehicle - run a hose from the TB to the can and suck up 1/4 - 1/3 of the bottle. Keep the idle up until this is done then kill the engine.
Remove spark plugs - 1 Cap in each cylinder.
Half remaining in the Oil.
The rest in the fuel.
Let the car sit for 15-30 minutes.

Start the car - She'll want to die. Keep the RPMs up and watch the smoke show.
Take off driving and drive her HARD until the smoke dies.
Get home - Change Oil, Oil Filter, and Spark Plugs.
Enjoy a smoother running vehicle.

Why this failed for you - It lowers the thickness of the oil, makes it thinner, so it can't lubricate as well. Running your car like this actively resulted in engine failure.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Yo OP. You didnt drain it out after putting it in or what>

'?

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

Yo OP. You didnt drain it out after putting it in or what>

'?

No...... He suggested that i put it in there When i changed the oil...

Now i have a expensive problem....


I do not really want to get off topic but i am looking at getting this short block and rebuild when i get school money/taxes in.

Porters Performance 4G63 (STAGE 1) Short Block

Is it worth it to get the block honed and torqued?

And what would be a good oversize recommendation? I don't plan on going over 350HP with this. I don't need it.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

You could build your own block for that $1400. Grab a stock 1G 6 bolt block for a few hundred, take it to a machine shop, have it properly worked over, and $600ish later you have a pristine 4G63T to drop in and go. Stock 6 Bolt's have been proven to handle great power.

Put the money you save into things like a tuning solution, some ARP hardware, a good Head Gasket, get the head or block O-Ringed, a BSE kit, a better fuel pump, AFPR, and a decent exhaust system.

You can make $1400 go a long way.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

You could build your own block for that $1400. Grab a stock 1G 6 bolt block for a few hundred, take it to a machine shop, have it properly worked over, and $600ish later you have a pristine 4G63T to drop in and go. Stock 6 Bolt's have been proven to handle great power.

Put the money you save into things like a tuning solution, some ARP hardware, a good Head Gasket, get the head or block O-Ringed, a BSE kit, a better fuel pump, AFPR, and a decent exhaust system.

You can make $1400 go a long way.

I am very confident to work on the top end, but the bottom end? I really do not want to mess that up.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I am very confident to work on the top end, but the bottom end? I really do not want to mess that up.

That's why you take it to a machine shop. ;P

- Disassemble it
- Dip it
- Have it Clearanced
- Bore it if you want
- Grab the pistons you need (cheap)
- Polish the Crank
- Hone the Cylinders
- O-ring
- Assemble
- Go

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

That's why you take it to a machine shop. ;P

Yeah but in this retarded town people think their work is top notch. Since there is only like 2 shops around here their price is to high.

Don't even get me started on my tranny problem. They want 1200$ just for a rebuild that is NO parts when you can get one brand new for that much.

Also since you are a fellow Arkansan, do you know where a port and polish head shop is at? And how much? I am tempted to do it myself.

 

[tcbikerguy6]

No...... He suggested that i put it in there When i changed the oil...

Now i have a expensive problem....


I do not really want to get off topic but i am looking at getting this short block and rebuild when i get school money/taxes in.

Porters Performance 4G63 (STAGE 1) Short Block

Is it worth it to get the block honed and torqued?

And what would be a good oversize recommendation? I don't plan on going over 350HP with this. I don't need it.

I have heard nothing but bad things from porter performance. I would check out DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

The genius at advance auto suggest putting a quarter bottle in the oil when i change it along with Lucas to solve my lifter ticking noise.

I didnt even need to read past this part. Take what any auto parts store employee says with a grain of salt.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

i have heard nothing but bad things from porter performance. I would check out dsm graveyard - your #1 source for dsm parts!

uuuuuhhhhh

http://www.dsmtuners.com/links/dsm-vendors-2/thedsmgraveyardcom-306/#posts

How about not?

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

I have heard nothing but bad things from porter performance. I would check out DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

The problem with that is.... The 500$ core charge, i found a 90' Talon 2.0 N/T in a junkyard they want 100$ for the short block, Then i have to take it out and find a company to ship it from Arkansas to Michigan. It would just take too much time and money than to just pay the 200$ core charge and be done with it...

However i will keep that in mind!

Thanks!

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

I have heard nothing but bad things from porter performance. I would check out DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

Im not here to talk bad about anyone on here anymore but if your going to say that one company has bad reviews, check out the other company as well before you recommend them...their reviews arent that great either.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Yeah but in this retarded town people think their work is top notch. Since there is only like 2 shops around here their price is to high.

Don't even get me started on my tranny problem. They want 1200$ just for a rebuild that is NO parts when you can get one brand new for that much.

Also since you are a fellow Arkansan, do you know where a port and polish head shop is at? And how much? I am tempted to do it myself.

There are a few machine shops that I know of that are pretty decent, but I know in your area - No offense - but a lot of half-assed mechanics tend to crowd there. There are a few great shops here locally as well as in Little Rock. Here - it's a little run down shop with a bearded guy who's done machine work for 50+ years. The guy is a genius. We have a drag strip here and this place sees a lot of engine work pass through, so the machine shops that survive the cut are top notch.

I actually have a 1G that you could just come... pick up... for $300. The block is good, in fact the entire assembly was taken care of last year and it's now sat for 6 months without a head. Just needs a little cleanup work and it's good to go.

 

[DSMBanditFZ6]

There are a few machine shops that I know of that are pretty decent, but I know in your area - No offense - but a lot of half-assed mechanics tend to crowd there. There are a few great shops here locally as well as in Little Rock. Here - it's a little run down shop with a bearded guy who's done machine work for 50+ years. The guy is a genius. We have a drag strip here and this place sees a lot of engine work pass through, so the machine shops that survive the cut are top notch.

I actually have a 1G that you could just come... pick up... for $300. The block is good, in fact the entire assembly was taken care of last year and it's now sat for 6 months without a head. Just needs a little cleanup work and it's good to go.

just a plain stock one?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

just a plain stock one?

PM me for details. Don't want to infringe further on forums rules.

 

[ed1380]

It's not the seafoam. Diluting engine oil with seafoam/diesel/atf is a common practice to remove sludge. Also from lack of lubrication, you're going to spin a rod bearing before you damage the wrist pin.