Custom fuel system

[deflator]

Getting my car setup to run E85 full time. I'm running a Big T28 Killer (Big 16G wheel in a custom housing) and I'll have 1150cc injectors and DSMLink soon. I'm hoping to run 23-25psi on this.


This is what you do when your fuel lines are so rusted they need to be cut to get the fuel pump out: -6 AN to an earls filter then to the rail

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I had to drill out the pump assembly, then weld in a -6AN bulkhead fitting. I welded the stock uh.. tube thingy(1st pic below) to the bottom of the bulkhead fitting so the pump would still go into the stock location.

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Walbro 255hp and assembly

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And on the other side of the rail, an Aeromotive AFPR of course

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I hope someone gets some use out of this information. I was pretty bummed when I broke my fuel lines, but I ended up with something much prettier.

 

[99gst_racer]

I did a very similar modification to my fuel pump assembly as well. I cut the upper portion of the feed line off, but I left the bottom side (fuel pump side) intact. That way the fuel pump mounted and sealed just like from the factory. Then I welded a -6 AN bung right above the hole in the plate, and all is well.

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[deflator]

I was going to use a bung like that, but I was worried about it clearing the cover that goes over the tank. You probably had to cut yours for those tall fittings right?

 

[Ajax]

I did the same thing 99gst just cut the top off and welded the bung over the hole.

 

[99gst_racer]

I was going to use a bung like that, but I was worried about it clearing the cover that goes over the tank. You probably had to cut yours for those tall fittings right?

No, mine clears the cover just fine. Clearance is also the reason I used a forged 90* fitting as apposed to a bent-tube 90* fitting.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I also welded a bung onto my AWD assembly. 90* earls fitting off that, and it's all done.

 

[deflator]

Having a problem, I fired it up today and tried to take it for a drive, but I can't get her to go over 2k rpm before I hit fuel cut (or what I think is fuel cut). The pump cuts out and the car just about stalls. I checked for leaks but I couldn't find anything, help

 

[turbosax2]

Have you done a boost leak test?

 

[deflator]

Have you done a boost leak test?

No, I put everything but the fuel system back together the same as it was, how could I get new boost leaks from installing a pump lines and afpr?

 

[turbosax2]

No, I put everything but the fuel system back together the same as it was, how could I get new boost leaks from installing a pump lines and afpr?

Did you have to take the intercooler piping off to do the install? Do a boost leak test just to make sure you have no leaks. It's good to do every once in awhile anyway.

 

[deflator]

Did you have to take the intercooler piping off to do the install? Do a boost leak test just to make sure you have no leaks. It's good to do every once in awhile anyway.

I took the upper IC piping off but I can't see how I could screw that up. I'll do one anyway. My fuel pressure is now only reading 35psi at idle, bah. Please advise

 

[turbosax2]

I took the upper IC piping off but I can't see how I could screw that up. I'll do one anyway. My fuel pressure is now only reading 35psi at idle, bah. Please advise

After the boost leak test, take the vacuum hose off the afpr with the car running and set the fuel pressure to 43.5.

35 at idle is around where it should be with the vacuum line attached.

 

[deflator]

After the boost leak test, take the vacuum hose off the afpr with the car running and set the fuel pressure to 43.5.

35 at idle is around where it should be with the vacuum line attached.

Will do, thanks
I bought my AFPR second-hand (no instructions) so I had to set it up by photos alone. I take it you change the height of the screw on the top to adjust it?

 

[turbosax2]

Will do, thanks
I bought my AFPR second-hand (no instructions) so I had to set it up by photos alone. I take it you change the height of the screw on the top to adjust it?

That's correct. Loosen the nut then screw the adjusting rod in or out to change the pressure. In = raise pressure, out = lower pressure. When you get the pressure set, tighten the nut back down again.

Side note: The adjusting rod and vacuum fitting are known spots for boost leaks. Put teflon tape on both of them to fix this.

 

[500orbust]

To adjust fuel pressure, you loosen the jam nut and then use an allen wrench to turn the stud. Clockwise will raise pressure and counter clockwise will drop pressure. Make sure the stud is not too loose, otherwise the fpr will react very slowly. You should not run into that unless you have a blockage in the return line or you are trying to get very low pressure.

 

[turbosax2]

Another side note: Have you rewired that fuel pump yet? If not, do so.

2G DSM Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions

 

[deflator]

Another side note: Have you rewired that fuel pump yet? If not, do so.

2G DSM FWD Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions

Though it seems like my fuel pressure is about right, since it said 35 with the vacuum line attached

 

[turbosax2]

I did not, though I really should have known to. Is there any difference to rewiring a 2g AWD compared to whats in that pictorial?

Though it seems like my fuel pressure is about right, since it said 35 with the vacuum line attached

Still check your fuel pressure with the vacuum line off to be sure. It should be 43.5.