CRAP!! Input needed

[Mike1992]

Ok here goes, I installed a new clutch kit on my car about 50 miles ago along with the auto to manual trans converion. i didnt have a book so did what I could from learning on here. just got myself a good service manual and read what should have been done. I did everything acording to the book but 1 thing. i didnt grease the inner spline of the clutch disk when i installed the clutch setup, nor did I grease the spline of the input shaft. Everything else was greased and torqed correctly to spec. Could that be why I am having grinding noises when shifting in 1/2/3? 4/5/R are fine. I can shift through all gears perfect, if I'm at a dead stop and whatever rev dont matter its all good, but when I'm moving/driving down the road thats when it grinds.

Anywho, i will be pulling the trans again this weekend, to replace my shimmed clutch fork and ball and just wanted to know if not greasing the disk spline and shaft could be whats causing the grind. thanks

 

[pneumo]

Ungreased splines shouldn't have much of an effect on grinding at first, but as the disc wears into the shaft it could start to bind and affect shifting.

Grinding in 1/2/3 could be from slightly mis adjusted shifter cables, the ungreased splines, a clutch that engages too close to the floor, or just worn syncros in those gears.

 

[Mike1992]

I'm leaning more towards worn syncro's, beacuse the cables are adjusted perfect. If/when I am driving, I can just kinda jerk it into the grindy gears and it'll go in every time. I guess ill find out when when i redo it all this weekend

Oh and clutch pedal is adjusted good to

 

[crankbender]

The key to all that you said was that it shifted fine when sitting still (even with the engine running right?). If this is the case it is syncros then. The clutch sticking would drag on the clutch making it hard to shift no matter how fast the wheels were spinning.

 

[Mike1992]

Originally posted by crankbender
The key to all that you said was that it shifted fine when sitting still (even with the engine running right?). If this is the case it is syncros then. The clutch sticking would drag on the clutch making it hard to shift no matter how fast the wheels were spinning.

yep car running and sitting still, all gears are fine, but when it motion 1/2/3 arent the best

 

[Mike1992]

Ill give that a try thanks

Hey where'd rabidfox last post go?

 

[leet]

Originally posted by Mike1992
Ill give that a try thanks

Hey where'd rabidfox last post go?

He probably deleted it. I'm gonna agree with CB here (you da man! )

 

[Mike1992]

well, thanks for the input, I guess ill just drive it till its done for. I can get in the gears, 1st and 3rd have a small notch, but 2nd has a big errnttt. Gotta be forceful with it so the grind dont last so long

 

[Defiant]

Pennzoil Synchromesh.

 

[crankbender]

yes try the correct fluid first. If you still have the broblem and it is bad...like actually grinds you should fix it now. Just replacing syncros is fairly cheap and easy.

Gears will cost ya.

 

[Mike1992]

I got BG in it now, but after this weekend its receiving fresh penz syncromesh, I'm poor and cant afford a rebuild

 

[Mike1992]

I started removing the tranny tonight, I just need help getting it off the motor. Anyways I drained the gear oil from the trans and was surprised, the oil is now a dark dark brown with some very very tiny metal shavings. The BG I put in this thing a few months ago was a very light colored brown almost tan. 100 miles and now it looks filthy odd. Also, I'm having trouble with the passenger axle seal, or something, I've replaced the axle seal 3 times now and the bastard keeps leaking. Also I can move the axle in and out about 1/4 why is this? i still had to pop it with a screwdriver, I really wanna solve that problem so maybe someone knows?

Oh yea I pulled this tranny from a parts car that sat for at least 2 years, so maybe thats why this fresh oil got dirty who knows

 

[crankbender]

metal shavings=rebuild in most cases. If it isn't gone now it is on its way out.

As for the seal can't help you off hand but the shaft should have zero play in it when properly put in the tranny. Maybe you don't have the correct shaft/tranny/or retaining ring (the passenger side uses a ring the drivers side is bolted to the block).

The oil is probably brown from the leaking seal lowering the level and then it got burnt.

 

[Mike1992]

The metal shavings, almost like silver dust were hardly noticeable, barely there. I dunno, but I'm gonna drive it till the tranny goes then rebuild it. I think ima take my passenger axle and get a new one, seems like the side that goes into the hub is really stiff and if ya flex it into one position it stays there. Odd? The fluid made have been dark or dirty, because I reused it 3 times within 50 miles of pulling the axle seal for replacement over and over again. I'm just gonna get axle seals from mitsu monday along with a new axle from maybe o'really's or autozone and hopefully the leaks will be done! I put the new clutch fork and ball in the trans and shimmed the ball with a very small oil line washer suggested by DSMotorSports.com Hopefully with the new parts I will be back on the road by the middle of next week.

 

[pneumo]

When you press the new seal in, use a little RTV around the outer edge where the seal meets the tranny case. It makes it easier to press in, plus it seals up any scratches in the mating surfaces.

 

[Mike1992]

Thanks for the tip pneumo, I was wondering if theres a special tool for installing those? i always use a light touch of a hammer. I also noticed that the penzoil syncromesh is much thinner in consistency than the previously used bg syncro, I see that as a good thing. I cant wait to get everything back in and I really appreciate everyones help with things.

 

[pneumo]

The RTV makes the seal slippery so it slides in easy. I use my thumbs to press in seals. I get better control and alignment that way.


______________________________
When it comes to tranny work, I'm all thumbs!

 

[Mike1992]

I went to the parts store to buy a new axle for the leaky side, turns out mines fine only difference I noticed between the new and mine was that my circlip isnt expanded, I guess I need a new one on there. He said they dont sell those though. maybe a dealer item then? I also noticed mine was about 1/2 longer than the new/rebuilt one at the counter. weird well, Ima make a trip to the dealer in the morning to buy new circlips for the axles and new axle seals.

 

[Mike1992]

Update:

i went to the dealer this morning and got new axle to tranny seals ouch $20 for 2. I had them look over my passenger axle, and they say its not sealing properly with the seal because theres rust on the part the seal would cover. YAY i think this is the problem, I took some emery cloth to it and its all nice and smooth like a bearing now. Oh and they said the circlip's arent usually changed so i'm good there

 

[Mike1992]

Ok, everythings back togeather. Went for a spirited 30 min drive. My 1st gear grind is gone, but 2nd and 3rd are still a little grindy. My tranny only used 2 quarts of syncromesh. No leaks from the seal. I do however smell an odd smell that I cant describe.

Edit: I just went for another drive, seems like if I let the rpm's drop down to about 1k i can shift with no grinds. Syncro's are bad right?

 

[ZyklonBZombie]

Originally posted by Mike1992
well, thanks for the input, I guess ill just drive it till its done for. I can get in the gears, 1st and 3rd have a small notch, but 2nd has a big errnttt. Gotta be forceful with it so the grind dont last so long

don't be to "forceful" with it ... i was forceful with my third gear and broke it . this probably isn't the problem but make sure you have gear oil in the tranny ... the person i bought my car from still had the receipt from when he had the gear oil changed (along with full driveshaft service) but when i changed trannies there was about a pint of gear oil in it (NO leaks eather). but you said you did a auto to 5spd swap so i doubt that is even the issue.

 

[Mike1992]

I filled the trans with 2 quarts of pennzoil syncromesh and about 2 oz. of this Mopar Limited Slip Additive Friction Modifier. Now my tranny isnt near as bad, 2nd and 3rd still have a notch, but its drivable. I am very pleased, and I got one of those Magnetic Tranny bolts on the way from TeamRIP, so I can try and keep any metal shaving outta my syncro's.