Crankwalk (yeah i know)

[LazerSRT-4]

After searching all I could I still have some questions.

During the 92.5 switch were all the mosifications done at the same time? (brakes, engine, body) or do some of the early 92 cars have better brakes or some of the late 92s have a 6 bolt 4g63.

Also how susceptible are the 92.5-94 cars to crankwalk, how many miles does it start having symtoms and what ways are there to discover it without tearing apart the engine?

Thank You for your help

Jake

 

[reeper]

not as common i those years.

signs are clutch may fall down or come soft when making hard left turns

 

[vintagemuscle]

all "92" built may of 91 and and earlier have a 6 bolt, 4 bolt rear. june of 91 and later have the 7 bolt with the 4 bolt rear. i think. do a search and you'll find your answers.

 

[reeper]

BTW this will probably be locked, if you do a search for crankwalk you would have all the answerers you need, and you will also see most of them is locked

 

[mopardwh]

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[reeper]

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that pic just made my night

 

[No_Skillz]

Priceless picture.

 

[mopardwh]

Yeah the pic shows just how bad crankwalk can be.

 

[fwdeclipse]

Thats aewsome,that was clever whoever did that.

 

[ilikespeeding]

How has no one ever seen this picture? I think I saw this like atleast a year ago when I dident even know what a dsm was, let alone crankwalk.

 

[RedGSX21]

ive never seen that pic before but it is awesome

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

93-94 cars have weaker rods too. Not that great of an engine compared to the 6 bolt, as far as strength is concerened.

I would wager the big brakes came at the same time, but not 100% sure.

The body is the same from 92-93.

If you want to check for symptoms (You can only know for sure if you tear into the engine), try pushing/pulling the crank pulley, see if it can wobble. If it does, then it could be just the pulley or it could be a sign of CW. CW is not as common in a 93 as it is in a 95-97.

All the symptoms are all listed here and on the net. Weird clutch pedal engagement (Especially on left hand turns), inconsistant clutch pedal engeagement/disengagement.

I had a 93, it threw a rod or a bearing at 130K miles. I did notice the previous owner only changed the oil every 5000 miles, and always the jiffy lube special, and her was running 10W40.

I bought it at 99K, drove it really hard for a year (Put about 35K on it in a year) and a half. I was running 16-20 lbs on all stock setup. Yeah I know that's bad to do, but that shouldn't effect the rods or crank.

 

[petbeemer]

Hi all,i need to put this up somewhere so may as well be here!

Right here goes,haven't been down to the garage today (streaming cold) so you'l have to make do with photos from my home computer.

This is by no means 100% cure to c/w but it does improve oil capacity to the bearing 100% and as such we have at least 5 engines all running various states of tune and all at various milages over 3k now,my own engine is the worst built by far as it uses the original crank that was scored (mediumly) bad and the forged parts from joel's returned motor,the reason i used this was to speed the process of c/w up (i know what your thinking ) ive now done 4k miles with it not getting any worse than when first installed,all other motors have used a good crank in the first place the highest miler being 10k with no sign of walk yet.
However:im posting this up as a 'how to' and as such dont want to be blamed for any person screwing his/her engine up trying to follow the description,if your not 100% sure of 'how to' then im available to contact as most of you know.I personaly nor Autofixed as a hole take any responsability for your actions!

The problem occurs due to insufficient oil delivery onto the thrust bearing face,theres plenty of other engines around with exactly the same setup as the early evo's center main bearing,however most of the engines with the same set up direct oil thats returning to the sump to the center main thrust face,early evo's do not!

The mod involves fileing a flat from the oil gallery(the block)straight across see pic

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this can be done both side but on the other side it will need to be done useing the same idea but on the bearing carrier.

What you should be left with is a new oil gallery that points to the thrust face both sides on the center bearing

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Next as you will notice upon fitting the center thrust bearing is that you have just blocked that gallery off,so with a very small file (needle file) take some material away from the area shown in the next picture,note that theres a step between the inner part of the thrust bearing to the actual face of the thrust bearing,dont file the thrust face!

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After doing this and refitting the center bearing you should have an oil hole both sides of the bearing fed from the center main directly into the thrust bearing face which will when the cranks fitted fill the inner 'step' on the thrust bearing face with oil,the rest is then taken care of by
a: inertia on the crank throwing oil outwards
b: the volume of oil that will be available from the center main
The bearing face of the crank should now be running on a film of oil rather than metal to metal contact,also the bearing should stay cooler due to oil taking the heat away.

Like stated this isnt a 100% cure but it is a 100% improvement to oil supplied to the thrust face of both crank and bearing