Connecting rod bearing issue

[studabaker]

FROM THE PICTURE IN POST "DAGNOSTIC HELP" (AT THE END): IS THIS BEARING WEAR THE CAUSE OF THE NOIS I HEARD AFTER THE OIL LEAKED OUT OF MY ENGINE AFTER HITTING ROAD DAMAGE?

THEY WERE ALL BLACK AS I HAVE POSTED IN THE SACRAMENTO REGION UNDER "DIAGNOSTIC HELP". THEY BEING THE RODS. EXCEPT ONE.

I HAVE REPLACED THE ROD BEARINGS AND I HAVE NOT STARTED IT YET BECAUSE MY BATTERY IS DEAD AND I HAVENT CONNECTED MY EXHAUST BUT IS IT OBVIOUS THAT THIS IS THE PROBLEM AND WILL DO SEVERE DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE HOUSING.

I AM ESPECIALLY CONCERNED BECAUSE THE ENGINE IS GOOD I ONLY HAVE 20,000 MILES ON IT AFTER REPLACING ONE ALREADY.

 

[DSMnoobsause]

You should start over with this thread and post your pics,problems and conserns here. And not in all caps. That way we can actually help you.

 

[_Waffles_]

New situation by the looks of it and will need new information to go up.

Sorry to say too: engine longevity has nothing do to with mileage. Cant tell you how many 350 and 450 chevy's I have built and only are good for a year at the track.

And dont get me started on late 60's AMX motors....

 

[studabaker]

I appreciate you guy reading my post.
I tried to post my pictures but it wouldnt let me. If you need a picture please search "diagnostic help" or my posts.

There is this one picture of the rod bearing that concerns me because there is material from the crank and I know that is not good.

My point is maybe not clear but my engine is in good shape and I am worried about damaging the other parts such as the block if my crank is wobbling. I really just want to get it smogged and registered again so it doent get towed from my apartment. I did not plastigauge it because it was in the car and I got impatient.

If the plastigauge is out of spec or one rod more than the others will the crank wobble and damage the block?

I understand drivers error contributes to engine damage but im 35 and ive been driving a while and Im about to have a fast car for a change when I finish my talon. I like it front wheel drive and everything I wanted the 4wd turbo but I got this one and Im making it sweet.

I know the answer is: of course, it is damaging to the engine to have a bad crank.

I will try to start is and see if the new bearings make any difference and I will post my results but it wont be until this weekend. probably.

 

[5150DSM]

I read your other post and I'm not 100% what you are actually asking but I'll take a stab at it. If you just slapped new rod bearings in the car and expect everything to be ok... prepare to be disappointed. You spun one bearing badly and cooked the rest of them, if you are using the same crank without machining, your motor will be done in very short order. If you used a different crank and didn't mic the rod ends for OOR and didn't clearance the bearings, your motor will be done in short order once again. I'm not sure what steps you actually did and din't take but if you did anything I listed... Take a step back from the car and re-think your process, make sure the rods are good, check the crank thoroughly, clearance your bearings and flush all the metal out of your focking motor before you cost yourself a ton of frustration and cash.

If I misunderstood you, well, sorry. Your posts aren't very clear. Better help comes with better posts.

 

[BogusSVO]

I replied in your other thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/sacramento-area-dsm-forum/440665-diagnostic-help.html

 

[studabaker]

The crank cant be machined larger.

I might be able to do the crank replacement from the bottom without removing the engine?

I have priced them at under $200

I will research mic the rods for oor and flushing the engine and clearance the rod bearings

 

[BogusSVO]

First, You are not the first DSM'er to kill a set of rod bearings, I doubt you would be on the top 1000 list.

This is a fairly common issue.

You can find many threads on bad rod bearings on this fourm.

There are many proven steps to help fix your DSM, and keep it running right.

With the damage I saw of the rod bearings, just installing a crank kit will not fix all your problems.

The big end bores of the connecting rods need to be checked, so you do not spin the bearings on the new crank. To get the rods and pistons out, the head has to be removed.

Now it is not the metal flake in the oil you see, it is the very tiny metal flake you do not see that is every where the oil travels. By the time you heard the knocking and shut off the car, the oil had been circulated several times from oil pan, to head and back down to the oil pan.

You do understand, to remove the crank you have to unbolt it from the transmission and flywheel?
Along with removing the front case and oil pump.

As far as cleaning the oil galleys in the car, doubtful you can to it well enough.

 

[5150DSM]

Now is as good a time as any to get a proper start. Here's a few links I dug up to get you moving in the right direction. It's a lot of reading but you'll thank yourself for making the effort to do it right.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/368554-removing-head-components-1g-2g.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html
Removing Engine from the Car
Mitsubishi 4G63 & 4G64 Engine
http://www.dsmpurity.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4009&page=9
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/362154-how-final-wash-engine-block.html

 

[studabaker]

Among those with my vehicle I had not found this posted. There is less involved and easier for some people to tackle. I certainly agree that the rods should be done with the crank. This was a little beyond my comfort level but the sense of acomplishment in fixing this myself is great. I will need a different location to do a better cleaning job. I have been talking with a guy about swaping out the block for a bored out 2.4 one he has. I would still have to clean the head and replace the oil lines.

its just a bunch of bolts and stuff I should be able to figure out how to remove the transmission. I would never have imagined tackling this kind of project a while ago. I will do research on how it is done correctly, and safely.

Thank you for your support.

 

[studabaker]

Among those with my vehicle I had not found this posted. There is less involved and easier for some people to tackle. I certainly agree that the rods should be done with the crank. This was a little beyond my comfort level but the sense of acomplishment in fixing this myself is great. I will need a different location to do a better cleaning job. I have been talking with a guy about swaping out the block for a bored out 2.4 one he has. I would still have to clean the head and replace the oil lines.

its just a bunch of bolts and stuff I should be able to figure out how to remove the transmission. I would never have imagined tackling this kind of project a while ago. I will do research on how it is done correctly, and safely.

Thank you for your support.

 

[studabaker]

Among those with my vehicle I had not found this posted. There is less involved and easier for some people to tackle. I certainly agree that the rods should be done with the crank. This was a little beyond my comfort level but the sense of acomplishment in fixing this myself is great. I will need a different location to do a better cleaning job. I have been talking with a guy about swaping out the block for a bored out 2.4 one he has. I would still have to clean the head and replace the oil lines.

its just a bunch of bolts and stuff I should be able to figure out how to remove the transmission. I would never have imagined tackling this kind of project a while ago. I will do research on how it is done correctly, and safely.

Thank you for your support.