The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support STM Tuned

ClutchMasters vs ACT

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stock1g4g63

20+ Year Contributor
1,195
1
Jan 2, 2003
(was TX) Anaheim, CA, California
Hey guys, little help. Well I had an ACT 2600 clutch installed not soon after I got my car, and it's held up realy well, but recently, I began to crankwalk, so my mechanic changed out the thrust bearing and it's held together so far, but started to slowly "walk" again, but it was fine. My gf drove the car the other day, and burned the hell out of the clutch but it's still holding, but my crank seems to have stopped "walking". I assume because the clutch is almost gone. I talked to a few other people on the forum, and it seems that another guy on here had a bad case of crankwalk, rebuilt his motor, and switched to a ClutchMasters clutch, and has had no problems since. I've heard of a few other people with the ACT who start crankwalking, but i've yet to hear of crankwalking on the clucthmasters clutch. My question is, is the ACT 2600 clutch known to induce crankwalk more often than others, or is the clutchmasters clutch better for the crank. Sorry if the question is confusing, but to boil it down, If I change out the thrust bearing one more time, and switch to a clutchmasters, should I be ok? Has anyone had any experience with the ACT vs clutchmasters.
 
If you are planning on replacing the entire clutch assembly (pressure plate, disk, throw out bearing...) I would go with a clutch that has a little less clamping force, like a ACT 2100 or something similiar in clamping load. The reason why I say this is your car is stock so you don't really need 2600lbs of clamping pressure, 2100lbs should still be more than enough. Keep in mind a 2100lb clutch should last longer and many people will tell you that a heavy clamping clutch like that can cause unnecassary stress to both the tranny and the thrust bearings. Personally I think that it is the clamping load that is doing the damage not the brand. Besides crankwalk in a 1G is uncommon.
 
Well, I guess my user name is misleading, I drive a 2G, with a 16G, 550cc injectors, 255 Warlbro fuel pump, all intercooler piping, exhaust, frontmount. Any suggestions?
 
Well, I guess my user name is misleading, I drive a 2G, with a 16G, 550cc injectors, 255 Warlbro fuel pump, all intercooler piping, exhaust, frontmount. Any suggestions?
 
Well that sure changes my answer, you might want to update your user profile to include your year, model and mods. In this cause the ACT 2600 is called for but one very important piece of info that took forever to come across could be used. It has been proven that the oil injectors(for a lack of better words) in the 2G Talon/Eclipse will become plugged over time and will stick shut at Idle causing imense stress on engine and crank bearings. This is because the manufacture changed the oiling system in 2g's to use a injector closer to the bottom of the block (where your piston is on end of intake cycle) as opposed to the old style which came more from the top directly from the gallery. So keeping this in mind what a person can do is replace the bearings again and take the injectors/nozzles out and clean them. my buddy came across this info well rebuilding a vr4 galant and we did it to a friends 96 Talon Tsi because he began to walk. He hasn't had probs yet and his oil pressure is noticably higher at idle now but remains the same at high revs as it normally should. Just so more info that you can hopefully use.
 
>Is it possible to buy aftermarket/better "oil injectors" to help remedy this problem?

No…

The real cause for crankwalk is still a mystery. There are several very good theories, but all of them have been proven to be wrong on some occasions. Converting to 6 bolt motor seems to be the best solution.

ACT 2600 did not cause crankwalk, it just makes it happen sooner, it is not THE cause.

Your engine will come down with this problem again, it is just a matter of time. You can ether keep replacing your thrust bearing every 1-5k miles or just bite the bullet and switch it to 6 bolt motor.

Leon
RR
 
I was thinking of just changing the thrust bearing one more time, changing/cleaning the "oil injectors", and changing to a clutchmasters, by myself some time until I build my motor, or get a 6 bolt swap. What do you guys think?
 
The whole idea of switching to a 6 bolt is just a easy way around the problem if you have the cash a time to have it done. However if you just step back and take a look at the differences between the 1G and 2G 4g63 that would have a direct affect on the crank bearings. For example smaller, weaker thrust bearings, Oil injectors located towards the bottom not the top, and a supposable poor manufactured crank from mitsu. Obivously there are more diffs like intake manifold, turbo, intercooler, ecu upgrades but the do not directly affect crank bearings. I wouldn't change clutch assemblies because it is just going to cost $ and probable will make no difference as far as swapping to a six bolt, if you've got the money and time go nuts. If not just go through the oil injectors, replace thrust bearings and cross your fingers. P.S> I'm not sure if it is possible but have you looked into a different set of thrust bearings. Not Even sure if anybody makes them but the O.E.M. ones are pretty cheap. Just an idea
 
The 6 bolt is the best way to go, trust these guys they know what they are talking about!
:talon:
 
hey grndsm, im also from mass. i was wondering if ur gonna go to new england dragway this saturday, theyre gonna have a car show and races. im gonna be there. i was also there last wedndesday and there was this galant spanking every one, he was the second fastest car after a red gran national. i think that the galant was crazy fastm there was also a talon that was crazy fast too but like on his 4th run his car got messed up, not sure what happened. there were also a couple of 1g
pretty fast too
 
Boy did this thread get away! From "ACT vs. Clutchmasters" to oil squirters.
many people will tell you that a heavy clamping clutch like that can cause unnecassary stress to both the tranny and the thrust bearings. Personally I think that it is the clamping load that is doing the damage not the brand.
The clamping force of a clutch, by itself, won't damage the tranny or the thrust bearings. Since the pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel it imparts none of its clamping force to the crankhaft. It could be a 5000 pound clutch and it wouldn't matter.

The force is applied when you disengage the clutch and the clutch fork/throw-out-bearing pushes against the pressure plate fingers and pushes the pressure plate/flywheel/crankshaft forward against thrust bearings. The higher the clutch rating the more force is required to disengage it.

A high performance clutch will cause damage to a transmission because it transmits forces from the engine harshly with very little slippage, literally shocking it in some cases. It really doesn't matter what the clamping pressure is but how much force it transfers without slipping or absorbing the shock.

So...How about a comparison of ACT vs. Clutchmasters???

Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
 
I haven't tried the ACT clutches, primarily because I am afraid of crankwalk. I know that there is not a statistical correlation to crankwalk, but it sure seems to me like putting in a clutch with that much clamping force can't be good for an iffy thrust bearing.

I decided to go with the Clutchmasters HDTZ (kevlar) clutch and I have to say I'm very pleased with it. It's way, way, better than the stock clutch and Extreme rates it to 325HP. It's obviously not for the 500HP crowd, but it's a good middle ground clutch for moderately modified cars. Of course, it's expensive.
 
Go with a Clutch masters, I used an ACT years ago and it holds the power just fine but it puts alot of unwanted stress to the bottom end, plus the pedal in the clutch masters is as soft as stock. There is a company located out of japan called Power Enterprise and they do make upgraded bearings, they cost around $300 for a whole set.
 
I forget the web address but just try searching for Power performance parts. Theres a couple of companies in the U.S. that imports them too, Ill try and find them again and Ill let you know.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top