The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Clutch sticking hard

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Big B

10+ Year Contributor
99
0
May 5, 2011
atlanta, Georgia
Sometimes in the morning when its cold my clutch will stick a little bit until the car heats up some, only takes about 5 mins. But tonite it took about 15 mins for the clutch to start working right and the whole time I would get the clutch stiff again but right after I would lose pressure and it would stick. Is this normal when a dsm is running cold or is there a way to fix it it. Thanks!
 
sounds like a problem with the master and/or slave. Like mentioned above if you installed a high performance clutch without replacing these 2 components then the stiffer pressure plate could cause them to fail. I've seen instances before also in which a new oem clutch caused them to fail just because of the newly added stress on a system that develops "memory" in a sense. check for any visible leaks under the dash from the master and try pulling the boot off the slave and see if there is fluid in there as well. If the system is just low on fluid there is probably a reason because it is a sealed system and the fluid has to have went somewhere. good luck :)
 
i still have the stock clutch and the master cylinder was changed about 6 or 7 months ago so i dont know if thats its. but u kno what, no that you say look under the dash for leaks ive realized that under my car mat there is usually a little moisture. i just always thought it was moisture from the humidity. i didnt know it could leak under the dash

is it pretty easy to change out the cylinders or to bleed the ctutch lines? im really not to sure on how to do it.
 
I had the same problem i replaced it and blead it at the slave cylandar make sure you bench bleed the master cylandar before installing. Two bolts on the fire wall one line.
 
ok so i jusr checked and im not leaking from anywhere so i dont think anything has to be replaced. so i will jus bleed the cylinders and see how that goes. i must just have some air in the lines
 
most likely your slave crapped out

ACTUALLY, if the slave is bad it will leak fluid into the boot. If it isn't leaking than it isn't bad. It is a very simple device, a piston with a rubber seal and a housing with a bore for the piston to fit in. It's pretty simple to check the slave, pull boot back, if it's dry the slave is in perfect working condition, if it is wet than it needs to be replaced. A majority of the times when you have clutch hydraulic problems it will be the clutch master. The master can also be bad and not leak out any fluid.

I would try bleeding it out a few times and if that doesn't help than i would adjust the master adjustment rod under the dash so that the pedal is higher.
 
Check your line from the master cylinder to the slave, you may have a leak in the line. Maybe even the moisture on your carpet maybe an indicator that you have a leaky master cylinder!!!! Wish you luck and let us all know!!!!!
 
SOLUTION 1
Pump the clutch while its cold.
See if your fluid drips either on the front of the transmission (bad slave cylinder), or on your firewall/under dash/by clutch pedal (bad master cylinder). If you swear it isnt leaking, then... solution 2.
SOLUTION 2
If your clutch pedal height at rested position is lined up with the height of the brake pedal at rested position... If it is NOT, and it hangs lower by ANY AMMOUNT, you have to do the dreaded clutch pedal removal, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND SENGIND IT TO SHEPARD RACING at sheptrans.com and get it rebuilt by them!

If you swear its not the hydraulics, which it usually is (bleed your lines, change your slave and master AT THE SAME TIME!), and you know its not the pedal assembly because they line up PERFECTLY, then you have bend a clutch fork, or you need to SHIM your fork (T.R.E. has an instructional on this), or maybe your bellhousing bolts are backing out (very common with DSMs, CULPRIT FOR CRACKED BELLHOUSINGS ACROSS THE NATION!)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top