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Clutch problems [Help please]

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Lofty

10+ Year Contributor
4,247
37
Jul 27, 2008
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Alright. Well it seems my clutch is engaging right off the floor, and my gears grind on occasion.
I was sitting on a bit of an upward incline, with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and it wasn't rolling back like it should. Also when i shut off the engine, it make a bit of a clunk noise because it seems like the clutch is disengaged a bit.
Is this my master cylinder rod? Air in the Cylinders?
Please this is a bit urgent, so if you can help me please do so.
Thanks.
 
1. Bleed the line
2. Check for leaks
3. Try an extended slave rod
4. Pull the trans and see what you broke, I have broken one of the tabs off my TOB and it acted similar to this.


Oliver
[email protected]
 
Yes, more than likely if you haven't replaced the clutch anytime soon your master/slave cylinders need replacing and/or bled.

Edit: the extended slave rod is generally not recommended to be used.
 
Yes, more than likely if you haven't replaced the clutch anytime soon your master/slave cylinders need replacing and/or bled.

Edit: the extended slave rod is generally not recommended to be used.

Hmm. I think they need a good bleeding, because it has a relatively new-ish clutch in it.
Or so they told me when I bought the car and gave me the old clutch in a box.
And yeah, ext slave rod is a no-no. Just masks the problem I've heard.
I'm gonna go bleed it, thanks guys.
 
Has it always engaged at/around the floor or is this a recent problem? It should engage about halfway down.

Do you know what clutch they put in?
 
Has it always engaged at/around the floor or is this a recent problem? It should engage about halfway down.

Do you know what clutch they put in?

My buddy just bought his GS-T last saturday, and he's having problem getting into gear because of this problem.

My GS-T lost it's clutch last week and I just pulled my tranny today.
Should see my coffee blend tranny fluid :p However, mine engages halfway down.

Anyway, what does this mean? Or how can we get it to engage halfway down?
 
There are many signs/symptoms I use to determine what is wrong with the clutch setup and functionality. The first thing is to determine if this is a new problem. That is why I ask "Has it always engaged at the floor or is this a new problem?" This steers me two different ways. If it has always engaged at the floor then that tells me that it wasn't setup correctly to begin with and needs to be corrected (need to shim clutch pivot ball if it falls under part 2 of my second question / hydraulic system problem if it falls under part 1 of my second question). If it's a new problem and has previously engaged at the midway point something is broken and needs to be fixed (Master/Slave cylinder, Clutch hydraulic line, Bleeding, Clutch fork, Throw out bearing). The second one I like to ask is "What clutch is in there?" Part 1: Original stock clutch (clutch is shot, hydraulic system problem). Part 2: Aftermarket or a Stock Replacement w/resurfaced flywheel (shim the clutch pivot ball, bad TOB)

Another thing I see alot is that people had a great functioning stock clutch then they put an aftermarket one in and now it doesn't disengage. That is almost 100% of the time related to shimming the clutch pivot ball correctly. This generally falls under the "Used to engage fine but now it doesn't" question.

So, until I get answers to those questions it is really hard to tell what is wrong with his setup.

Hope that explains things for you a bit.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
There are many signs/symptoms I use to determine what is wrong with the clutch setup and functionality. The first thing is to determine if this is a new problem. That is why I ask “Has it always engaged at the floor or is this a new problem?” This steers me two different ways. If it has always engaged at the floor then that tells me that it wasn’t setup correctly to begin with and needs to be corrected (need to shim clutch pivot ball if it falls under part 2 of my second question / hydraulic system problem if it falls under part 1 of my second question). If it’s a new problem and has previously engaged at the midway point something is broken and needs to be fixed (Master/Slave cylinder, Clutch hydraulic line, Bleeding, Clutch fork, Throw out bearing). The second one I like to ask is “What clutch is in there?” Part 1: Original stock clutch (clutch is shot, hydraulic system problem). Part 2: Aftermarket or a Stock Replacement w/resurfaced flywheel (shim the clutch pivot ball, bad TOB)

Another thing I see alot is that people had a great functioning stock clutch then they put an aftermarket one in and now it doesn't disengage. That is almost 100% of the time related to shimming the clutch pivot ball correctly. This generally falls under the "Used to engage fine but now it doesn't" question.

So, until I get answers to those questions it is really hard to tell what is wrong with his setup.

Hope that explains things for you a bit.

I'll print this out and give it to him tomorrow.

I thought it was supposed to engage halfway. LOL


Well, on to the clutch pivot ball.
What should I do make sure I don't have to pull everything off again?
I pulled the pressure plate off quickly today.
And my clutch was FRIED. It was almost glossy haha.
I was also doing some more research on making a tool that would help to avoid stripping the flywheel bolts (it was really nice to finally see the 6 bolts..)
What do I NEED to do to make one or obtain one?

Thanks a lot for the help.
 
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