Clutch pedle

[AWD_turbo]

Hey, new to the forum. I was just wondering why my clutch pedle is so easy to press in and seems to be a little slow to return. I dont know its the stock cluch, ive drove other 5spds and they seemed to be a little harder to press and alot quicker when returning. Just want to know if this is normal or what could be the problem and how can i fix it? thanx

 

[AWD_turbo]

Pedle is now sticky in the mid point of return, anyone?

 

[my95clipse]

i have a 95eclipse gst and it does the same thing, just every now and then and i have a performance clutch in there

 

[ETK-kAos]

(Taken from www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster )

So you want your 2g clutch to grab faster huh? Well you have come to the right place. In fact, after performing this mod I went from pulling consistent 1.85 60' foot times with the stock clutch and a 16g to bogging the hell out of it. I now need to relearn how to launch. But it should be worth it. It is still possible to slip the clutch. I know, I did it in my efforts to stop bogging. Hehe I got a little over excited Ok time to get to work.

Tools:

1. 14mm wrench - too remove the banjo bolt
2. XXX wrench - to open the bleeder screw
3. small magnet - to remove the restrictor from it hole
4. Vacuum brake bleeder/a partner - although I'm told you can let gravity feed bleed the system; I'm not convinced

Parts Needed:

1. DOT 3/4 Brake fluid - cause you will drain the system when you pull the restrictor

Procedure:

1. Remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap - it is the small reservoir on the driver side; next to the brake fluid reservoir; it pulls up rather than twists
2. Jack the car up - not required but it sure makes life easier
3. Ensure car is secure and will not fall on you - need I explain this further
4. Locate the clutch bleeder screw on the driver side of the transmission - it is on the driver side of the engine support and is attached to a brass part.
5. Place a catch pan under the assembly - you are about to drain the clutch fluid
6. Loosen and remove the banjo bolt that is facing forward - not the male flare fitting that faces the passenger side; take care to save the copper washers.
7. When the fluid has stopped draining pull the banjo fitting away and look inside the bleeder housing - you will see a "widget" with a small hole in it. This is part #7, the Valve Plate
8. Use the magnet to extract the Valve Plate and the Valve Plate Spring behind it (Part #8)
9. Put these parts in a safe place - you might just want them back for some reason
10. Replace the banjo bolt and the copper washers and torque to 17ft-lbs - ensure the washers, bolt, and banjo fitting are free of dirt and debris
11. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir with clean fresh DOT 3/4 fluid - this alone made the clutch feel better
12. Bleed the system as you would brakes using either the vacuum kit or a partner
13. Top off the fluid to the "Full" line and replace the reservoir cap
14. Have fun relearning how to launch

You have now removed the clutch restriction. As a test, press the clutch in and then rapidly remove your foot. The peddle, unlike before the mod, will come back up as fast as your foot. Before the mod there used to be a measurable delay between removing my foot and the peddle returning to the top position.

Enjoy

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I looked on the jumptronix site and from their main page I don't think you can get to their go faster pages anymore. Anyways, I plan on doing this after I install my boost controller and gauges. Hope this helped

Best wishes,
Anthony

 

[AWD_turbo]

Sounds like that could be the fix. i take it all DSMs are like this. Thanks alot , this will be alot of help.

 

[xcelr8n]

nope just 2g's...