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Clutch Package and other parts!

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92PandaTalonTSI

10+ Year Contributor
97
1
Oct 3, 2011
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Ok guys! Just before I order the parts, my clutch slips at higher rpms. It's still the stock clutch so I want to upgrade. I'm going to buy a clutch kit with a lightweight flywheel. Already did my research on my clutch and flywheel package. Only question is should I get a new pivot ball and clutch fork while I'm doing it? There is a kit on extremepsi.com (my favorite vendor) that is a forged clutch fork with a new pivot ball:

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

I'm also going to get an OEM throwout bearing for it. It also has a new slave cylinder and the pedal assembly and the master cylinder looks great. I know the new pivot ball will eliminate the need for shimming and the new clutch fork will ensure that the stock one is not warped at all. Is there anything else I should look out for while it's all apart? Should I upgrade to ARP Flywheel Bolts right away? Do I need an extension rod if upgrading all the other parts too? So my shopping list is as follows:

Clutch (pressure plate and disk)
Flywheel
Pivot Ball
Clutch Fork
OEM Throwout Bearing
OEM Clutch Release Clip
 
I recommend replaceing the fork and pivot ball but really all you need is oem. If you have the money for arps then go for it but not really needed until your make some big power. I just replaced everything as well and got all new oem with act streetlite flywheel and southbend clutch(better than act in my opinion) Goodluck
 
I recommend replaceing the fork and pivot ball but really all you need is oem. If you have the money for arps then go for it but not really needed until your make some big power. I just replaced everything as well and got all new oem with act streetlite flywheel and southbend clutch(better than act in my opinion) Goodluck

Well the OEM ones together are about $74. The forged one with the pivot ball included is $80. So for the extra $6 I'll definitely be getting the forged one. But thanks for the quick response!
 
As far as clutch fork, since the forged is almost the same price, I would go with the forged one. That is actually what I did. You don't need ARP flywheel bolts, but if they are cheaper, then get them. Again, that is what I did. DO NOT get an extended slave rod. There is never a reason to run one. If someone tells you otherwise, do not listen to them. They only mask a problem within your clutch setup.

If you get a new fork and pivot ball, you *shouldn't* need to shim the pivot ball. In my case, I had both new pivot ball, and fork, but because my flywheel was machined so many times, I needed to shim the pivot ball. But since you are getting a new flywheel, I wouldn't think that would be an issue. But keep it in mind if you are having engagement issues.
 
As far as clutch fork, since the forged is almost the same price, I would go with the forged one. That is actually what I did. You don't need ARP flywheel bolts, but if they are cheaper, then get them. Again, that is what I did. DO NOT get an extended slave rod. There is never a reason to run one. If someone tells you otherwise, do not listen to them. They only mask a problem within your clutch setup.

If you get a new fork and pivot ball, you *shouldn't* need to shim the pivot ball. In my case, I had both new pivot ball, and fork, but because my flywheel was machined so many times, I needed to shim the pivot ball. But since you are getting a new flywheel, I wouldn't think that would be an issue. But keep it in mind if you are having engagement issues.

Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for the response. I'll probably get the flywheel bolts because I pulled the flywheel before when doing the new engine swap and don't wanna reuse too many times. Plus for $40 for all 6 isn't too bad to always know that they will be completely fine! Thanks for all the help!
 
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