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Clutch Losing Bleed

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Budget90GST

15+ Year Contributor
196
22
Sep 23, 2004
Anaheim, California
I normally don't post much but this one has me stumped. I am looking for ideas or someone who had the same issues.

I bleed the cutch and it drives fine for a while. However, when I depress the clutch slave cylinder back (checking for adjustment stop point per Jack's instructions) I lose the bleed altogether and end up with no pedal pressure.

I also notice that the fluid does not rise in level when I depress the clutch slave cylinder. So it maybe just not bled completely.

Again, any ideas will help.

Thanks!
 
Either the slave or master has a damaged piston seal or you have a damaged hydraulic line or connection that is causing issues. More than likely you will need to disassemble the clutch master and slave cylinders and inspect the piston, piston seals, and cylinder bore for damage or debris. Be sure you also have your copper crush washers on the banjo bolt for the slave cylinder if you are using a banjo bolt connection in your hydraulic line setup.

Also, check the soft-line that attaches the master cylinder to the reservoir and the plastic portion of the reservoir and master assembly for cracks.

Here are the part numbers for OEM master and slave cylinders and their corresponding rebuild kits:

2.0L 4G63 Turbo DSM:
2G FWD/AWD master cylinder: MB910562
2G FWD/AWD slave cylinder: MD749823
2G master cylinder rebuild kit: MB870511
2G slave cylinder rebuild kit: 2969A056
Slave cylinder copper crush washers for banjo bolt (x2): 2324A056
Slave cylinder banjo bolt: MD620446
2G Master cylinder firewall mounting gasket: MB555016
2G Master cylinder reservoir connection hose: MB082024
Master cylinder hose spring clamps (x2): MB058362
 
Either the slave or master has a damaged piston seal or you have a damaged hydraulic line or connection that is causing issues. More than likely you will need to disassemble the clutch master and slave cylinders and inspect the piston, piston seals, and cylinder bore for damage or debris. Be sure you also have your copper crush washers on the banjo bolt for the slave cylinder if you are using a banjo bolt connection in your hydraulic line setup.

Also, check the soft-line that attaches the master cylinder to the reservoir and the plastic portion of the reservoir and master assembly for cracks.

Here are the part numbers for OEM master and slave cylinders and their corresponding rebuild kits:

2.0L 4G63 Turbo DSM:
2G FWD/AWD master cylinder: MB910562
2G FWD/AWD slave cylinder: MD749823
2G master cylinder rebuild kit: MB870511
2G slave cylinder rebuild kit: 2969A056
Slave cylinder copper crush washers for banjo bolt (x2): 2324A056
Slave cylinder banjo bolt: MD620446
2G Master cylinder firewall mounting gasket: MB555016
2G Master cylinder reservoir connection hose: MB082024
Master cylinder hose spring clamps (x2): MB058362

Once again, very good info Tim! :thumb:
 
I had this same problem with my 98 gsx turned out I had a faulty new slave cylinder the bleeder screw hole was tapped wrong causing me to lose fluid very slowly from around the bleeder screw ,I would bleed it and it would be fine for a couple of days and then the clutch wouldn't disengauge ,took me a while to find out what was wrong and also had to get my trans rebuilt and a new clutch because of this but only because it was my daily driver. But it sounds like you have the same problem you have a very small leak causing you to lose pressure some where hope you find out where the leak is before you cause more problems good luck.
 
I ended up buying a new master and slave and its better now. Kinda hard to get in gear, no grinding just very notchy but it shifts. I'm thinking clutch - so that will be next on list of tings to do. Thanks guys!
 
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