architechnik
15+ Year Contributor
- 690
- 11
- Jun 21, 2007
-
Glad,
Oregon
Note: I wrote to TMZ to get their input on some of this and I wanted to get some feedback here as well.
I picked up a SBC DSM SSX-TZ/B kit from TMZ about a year ago. I loved it for all of about 8 months or so and have had engagement issues ever since. This was with some pretty hard driving in autocross and after taking it to one of the worst shops I've ever encountered, I finally have some place I can do the work.
I've got the trans apart to do a gear cluster swap/rebuild because I destroyed 1st synchro (I should have taken care of it long ago, but never had the facilities). It looks like the aluminum flywheel couldn't handle the torque and abuse - completely wore out the dowel pin holes and the dowels fell out when I removed the pressure plate. Going chromoly this time around.
I just rebuilt the clutch pedal assembly with all new OEM parts, except for ShepTrans bushings.
I have the following related parts:
Competition forged fork
OEM TOB on there from about 800 miles ago
OEM clutch master and slave cylinders from the same time
Full braided SS clutch line
I know all about bleeding and clutch pedal adjustment, so we can skip the noob responses
So questions:
1. Which steel (chromoly) flywheel would you recommend - Competition? ACT?
2. Should I resurface the pressure plate or just scrub it with some steel/bronze wool? What determines the need?
3. How do I check for possibly bent friction disc (The TZ/B already has some flexible mounting material inside)? How thick is it supposed to be when out of the assembly to be sure I get complete disengagement?
4. Should I use the metal-sleeve TOB that came with the kit to ensure the correct dimensions or will OEM work just as well? (Typically we want to use the plastic-sleeved OEM TOB.)
5. Is there some way I can be sure the pressure plate is distributing weight properly and not relying only on the dowels other than standard torque and red loctite?
6. Are there other things I should check before putting it back together?
I picked up a SBC DSM SSX-TZ/B kit from TMZ about a year ago. I loved it for all of about 8 months or so and have had engagement issues ever since. This was with some pretty hard driving in autocross and after taking it to one of the worst shops I've ever encountered, I finally have some place I can do the work.
I've got the trans apart to do a gear cluster swap/rebuild because I destroyed 1st synchro (I should have taken care of it long ago, but never had the facilities). It looks like the aluminum flywheel couldn't handle the torque and abuse - completely wore out the dowel pin holes and the dowels fell out when I removed the pressure plate. Going chromoly this time around.
I just rebuilt the clutch pedal assembly with all new OEM parts, except for ShepTrans bushings.
I have the following related parts:
Competition forged fork
OEM TOB on there from about 800 miles ago
OEM clutch master and slave cylinders from the same time
Full braided SS clutch line
I know all about bleeding and clutch pedal adjustment, so we can skip the noob responses
So questions:
1. Which steel (chromoly) flywheel would you recommend - Competition? ACT?
2. Should I resurface the pressure plate or just scrub it with some steel/bronze wool? What determines the need?
3. How do I check for possibly bent friction disc (The TZ/B already has some flexible mounting material inside)? How thick is it supposed to be when out of the assembly to be sure I get complete disengagement?
4. Should I use the metal-sleeve TOB that came with the kit to ensure the correct dimensions or will OEM work just as well? (Typically we want to use the plastic-sleeved OEM TOB.)
5. Is there some way I can be sure the pressure plate is distributing weight properly and not relying only on the dowels other than standard torque and red loctite?
6. Are there other things I should check before putting it back together?
