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Clutch fluid bone dry but no leaks anywhere

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L2RTSiAWD

Honorary Moderator
20+ Year Contributor
11,533
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Apr 8, 2002
Chandler, Arizona
Ok after searching and reading about bad master an slave cylinders I think that may be my problem but need some confirmation.

What happens some days the the fluid in the resivoir will be bone dry but there is no fluid on the ground anywhere, after I fill it and bleed it the clutch is fine for about a week then it seems air is getting in somewhere and a couple months later it will be bone dry.
 
Trust me - you've gotta leak - it's just evaporating after it hits the underside of the car - it's not disappearing into hyperspace - Replace Slave Cylinder asap before you toast your Tranny- I'm putting a new Clutch Master in mine tomorrow - no leak but mine is bypassing internally... looks to be the original unit with about 115k miles - Slave Cylinders are good for 50 - 60K max - I replaced that last year.
 
Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Ok that's what I thought but just wanted a second opinion.

A slave cylinder rebuild kit is only about $15 and very easy to do.
Just tell the parts store you have an eclipse gsx when you go to get it. I know napa listed a rebuild kit for an eclipse, but not for a talon:rolleyes:
And then the new complete slave cylinders have the same part number.
 
Originally posted by 98TsiAWD
A slave cylinder rebuild kit is only about $15 and very easy to do.
Just tell the parts store you have an eclipse gsx when you go to get it. I know napa listed a rebuild kit for an eclipse, but not for a talon:rolleyes:
And then the new complete slave cylinders have the same part number.

What's the difference in price between the rebuild kit and a new one, also is there any reason the slave cylinder may not be re-buildable?
 
They are so cheap after you turn in the core I always just get a new or rebuilt aftermarket one - not OEM - too pricy! It's just software - like a Quad Ring - a Wiper & maybe an O Ring & new boot - No reason a Kit shouldn't work as long as the system didn't get contaminated w/water & Rusty inside & score the bore - I always just flush the system with a Pint of new Fluid everytime I replace either part till Fluid looks clear.

I mean I guess it could be a fitting leak somewhere - but pull the Dust Boot back on the Slave - it'll probably be wet.
 
I will, I have replaced all the fittings a while back when it was leaking from one, since then I have checked and they have been fine, I suppose the slave was going at the time as well.
 
Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
What's the difference in price between the rebuild kit and a new one, also is there any reason the slave cylinder may not be re-buildable?

I think they whole slave was $30, and rebuild was $15.
And like he said the only thing would be scoring, just like a piston moving in a cylinder wall with no lube. Mine was not scored however, Im sure you kept it wet inside there since the clutch wont work without fluid.
 
OK is this the repair kit you guys are talking about.

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im sorta having this problem also. My resivour gets down to about 1/3 full after a week or so of driving give or take, it dosnt seem to be a constant, i just fill it back up and never let it get to the dry point. Ive checked the boot on my slave and its not leaking and i cant find another place where it is leaking, no spots on the ground or anything and the entire system seems okay on the outside as far as i can see. Any idea of whats going on? i had thought about changing out my master and slave with dealer parts but i think the master was like 80 and the slave was like 60, so i said F that ill just keap it in check and fill it up all the time. I cant afford to pay that much for either item right now so whats my other options? i guess rebuild them seems okay but i would rather get new ones and see if that fixes it, where can i get a cheap aftermarket ones that arnt POS? But im still not entirely sure thats whats wrong, any ideas on what i can check to see if its leaking???
 
There are also a few hardlines that run to the slave cylinder, I had to replace those also a while becasue I was leaking fluid from there.

Matt-Thanks, I'll pick one of those up.
 
i've seen them leak from the MASTER cylinder into the interior. a simple visual inspection can confirm/eliminate that as the prob. seems to me you would at least see wetness around the slave cyl. if it was leaking...just a thought
 
At least you didnt lose your slave at the busiest intersection in daytona during rush hour. :shhh: Its an easy repair...once its out. Grab up some nice SS clutch lines while your at it. If that doesn't do it, start pointing fingers at the master...but its normally not that.
 
I will do that.

I will check my the leaking inside the cabin, but I don't think there is any there.

I don't have the cash for any SS lines or else I might have done that.

I have pulled the slave off once before.
 
I think a slave cylinder from Autozone is only about $12 if you are not going w/ a mitsu part.

I have flown over this thread, but if you reach up to touch the master cylinder inside the cabin and you get any fluid on your fingers the master cylinder is definately bad.
 
Originally posted by talon1979
I think a slave cylinder from Autozone is only about $12 if you are not going w/ a mitsu part.

Ya that's the kit I'm buying.
 
12$ is the rebuild kit, it's like 40 for a whole slave cylinder. and for that price I'd order a mitsu one from www.partznet.com(which is down right now)
 
LOL guys hold up a second. If there is no leaking under the dash you can get away without rebuilding the master but it will probably go soon. That said if you are doing it over the weekend just do em both if you feel like being proactive.

If you only want to rebuild the slave you can do it with the thing on the car. (at least you can with a 1g). Just pull the boot and rod off and open the bleeder valve. the rebuildable part should just pop out (make sure you have a drip pan there). Then just lube up the new one good and messy like and insert. Let the fluid gravity feed for a few mins then bleed it by pressing the clutch and slowly pulling up and leaving it there for 10 seconds...rinse/repeat (1 man job leave the bleeder open the whole time). This will use alot of fluid tho and needs to be done with a clear tube so you can see the bubbles. If you are quick you will get no air in the lines and only have to try and get the air out of the slave cylinder.

Hopes this helps :D.
 
I havnt got upside down yet but i think i noticed wet stuff up by my clutch pedal and it hit me that its prolly fluid from the clutch master cylinder, so from what he just said theres not a rebuild kit for that problem? im gonna have to buy a new one??:confused: it really sux if it do,LOL.
 
okay i got upside down and checked it out, it is coming from the master cylinder on the pedal side without a dout, the boot was torn to hell and its all wet, can i rebuild it in there or am i gonna have to replace??:confused:
 
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