Check engine when braking.

[unlinkedeclipse]

Okay so. I spent all last friday changing spark plug wires, and plugs (finding out that I've been driving for three months, since I bought the darn thing, with two spark plug wires crossed) and my valve cover gasket, due to oil leakage. Well fix one thing, another breaks. Now I have a puddle (very small) underneath the farthest left injector, which I'm gonna go out on a limb and assume that means my injector or rail is leaky. Also in the mornings, it's very cold here, and when i start the car it drives fine but idles at about 1600-1200 the whole time. Thirdly, not half an hour ago, I was driving home, and whenever i shifted to neutral and braked for a stop sign, it would click and the check engine light would come on. It seems to only do it if I'm exceeding 32-35 miles an hour though. Any help?

 

[yokotabrat]

There are quite a few orings and seals in the fuel system, so a puddle under the injector could be a leaky oring at the fuel injector/rail interface, or a leaking seal where the injector goes into the intake manifold or a leaky oring at the fuel line inlet to the fuel rail.

The check engine light when braking could be a loose battery terminal. When you brake it could momentarily lose connection to the battery cutting power to the ecu. When power is restored, it goes through the CE light check like it does at startup. I'd check that first since that's easy.

 

[unlinkedeclipse]

That makes sense actually cause my power part of my cables is messed up pretty bad.

Would that have to do with the high idle as well?

 

[yokotabrat]

Nope, the battery terminals shouldn't really affect the idle. The car will idle higher when it's cold because of the fast idle air valve (FIAV). 1000 to 1200 is what I seem to remember. Does the idle go back to approximately 750 when it's warm? If so, you're probably okay. Does it surge when it's cold or just idle high?

 

[unlinkedeclipse]

nah not really. And yeah it does equal out.