The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

check engine light cut out in boost

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

John DeCampli

10+ Year Contributor
104
0
Nov 20, 2011
ellwood city, Pennsylvania
my has had a check engine light on since i bought it i replaced the turbo and a few little things this is the last thing wrong and i cannot figure it out the light is for (fuel pressure up solenoid) code-p1105 my car cuts out in middle of boost like stutters im guessing these two are linked and i already replaced what i believed to be the problem

this part was just replaced
2CarPros Search Results for automo 6886 FPS 1
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Did you reset the ECU after you put the new solenoid in?

Also, check the wiring and make sure the wiring is good. Any problem to the wiring could cause the code to be thrown and you can replace as many FPS's as you like, but it won't fix it. Use some electrical cleaner and clean the connector.

Also, what spark plugs are you running and what are they gapped to? Seen a case where spark blowout was causing the ECU to think the FPS was bad for some reason. Guy replaced plugs, gapped them properly and reset the ECU. Code never came back on. Just something to ponder about.
 
i considered this but how do i turn it up i noticed the solenoid turns does this adjust the pressure? and i am not sure what i am running

I never really ran my car with solenoids since with DSM Link you can delete them, and I don't remember, but I don't think there is anything you can do to the solenoid to raise fuel pressure.

You might have a faulty factory Fuel Pressure Regulator if you are indeed having low fuel pressure.
 
Boost leak somewhere, possible fuel pressure issue linked to the solenoid code.

I'd bypass the solenoid for now- run a line straight from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator, see if the problem goes away.
 
thank you all very much i removed the plugs and they where not even gaped they where like triple what they should be and my problem seems to be fixed too much snow to tell for sure but i have no more code for the sensor and it seems to not be cutting out
 
Well naturally when you blow out spark (what was happening in his case) the misfires will cause the o2 reading to go leaner than usual because you are not burning the fuel due to the spark going out and misfiring. So I'm assuming that the ECU thinks that those lean spots from the misfires is lack of Fuel Pressure or something. Only thing I can think off.
 
Do you mean rich? Because if I understand correctly, that would make sense being rich, and the ECU thinks the FPS is restricting the intake manifold pressure line to the regulator right?

Now that I remember, air is an insulator so as he hit boost, he started getting a crappier spark then finally, no spark at all.
 
it could be throwing the temp sensor code due to the fact that with the big gap it not burning fuel properly and then finally as said it blows out the spark and since its running rich maybe the ecu thought the sensor staying cold. though it doesn't seem very solid that that would be why.
 
Do you mean rich? Because if I understand correctly, that would make sense being rich, and the ECU thinks the FPS is restricting the intake manifold pressure line to the regulator right?

Now that I remember, air is an insulator so as he hit boost, he started getting a crappier spark then finally, no spark at all.

It actually reads leaner, not rich, due to a misfire.

The o2 sensor is measuring the amount of oxygen left in the air, and from that, inferring what the air to fuel ratio was. If it misfired and it didn't burn, all that fresh air is still left, giving you a lean reading.

Under boost, the car doesn't do much to adjust fueling like it would in closed loop. It only adds fuel when it detects knock. It does this by increasing the injector pulse width, not by changing the fuel pressure with the FPS. The FPS blocking flow would cause the car to run lean under boost and rich under vacuum.
 
So what about lack of ground causing the car to have little fits? I have only two grounds from my battery, one to the starter bolt and one to the firewall. The firewall one broke and I didn't have another eyelet to put on so i cleaned it down to the metal behind where it went on and just tightened it down over the wire. Sometimes when I'm driving I can feel it hold back like jitter at times then pick back up. Sometimes on start-up the lights and gauge lights flicker, but I never have any charging problems and battery terminals are on good. Do I need to add more grounds?

Yeah I would say to hook up your ground again. I had the same exact issue. When I got my dsm, the lights were acting funny and that's when I found the cable wrapped with electrical tape. Underneath tape, the copper strands were all coming out of the eyelet and was not making a connection. I went to the junkyard and just got the new cable that attaches to the firewall. I also picked up a few extra grounding wires so I can replace any wires that break or just look too old.

It actually reads leaner, not rich, due to a misfire.

The o2 sensor is measuring the amount of oxygen left in the air, and from that, inferring what the air to fuel ratio was. If it misfired and it didn't burn, all that fresh air is still left, giving you a lean reading.

Thanks for clearing that up, I didn't realize that.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top