Cel.....

[Spooling99]

Ok guys im getting a check engine light only at idle or when the car is rolling and if im have the clutch engaged and leave it engaged for like 10 seconds. It doesn't show up right away takes like 10 to 15 seconds to come up. I have a ground wire hanging down under the car around the cat? I dont know if thats the problem. I work all the time so its hard to find time to go to advanced or a car place to get the code pulled. Hope one of you guys could help a fellow DSM'er
-ADAM-

 

[justin0469]

Get the code pulled. You knew you were gonna hear it but just do it. It takes 2 seconds once you are there. Or just buy one off ebay and do it yourself.

 

[Mist3r Spool]

Ok guys im getting a check engine light only at idle or when the car is rolling and if im have the clutch engaged and leave it engaged for like 10 seconds. It doesn't show up right away takes like 10 to 15 seconds to come up. I have a ground wire hanging down under the car around the cat? I dont know if thats the problem. I work all the time so its hard to find time to go to advanced or a car place to get the code pulled. Hope one of you guys could help a fellow DSM'er
-ADAM-

Make some time to get the code checked. Is your car's idling behavior changing at all when/on/before/while the engine light is on?

 

[Booster-Shot]

I didnt know this but autozone doesnt do obdI ecus anymore. Just buy a alternator tester at radio shack for 3.50 and now you can read all your cels. Best mod for my car under 5$ ever!

I dont think it has anything to do with the wire because I have a ground wire down there too? good luck-

 

[Spoolin98]

My brothers car is having the same problem. Keep us posted on what cel code it is once you find out. Thanks.

 

[Spooling99]

Thanks for the replies guys. Im just gonna have to get the altenator tester.
Also it does idle a little rough sometimes.
-ADAM-

 

[Mist3r Spool]

Thanks for the replies guys. Im just gonna have to get the altenator tester.
Also it does idle a little rough sometimes.
-ADAM-

If it's idling rough, check the alt. belts...actually check them all for proper tension and quality. How old is your battery & spark plugs/wires?

 

[Doug99RS]

Loose belts won't cause a rough idle. Your altenator may cause a CEL but I seriously doubt that's the problem here. I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume that you're kind new to the DSM thing. Get a logger. There's alot of different problems that can pop up on a DSM that you can't figure out without a scan tool or logger of some sort.

A Common mistake of the newer members is the bandwagon repairs. Meaning... a member has a CEL and runs rough. He does the right thing and gets the code and finds out it's an Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, replaces it and he's done. The guy then posts his complaint, the cause and the correction. Next thing we know there's 10 other people posting "I had the same symptoms, I'm going to do the same thing!". What worked for one person with a problem won't always work for the next ten even though they all had the same symptoms sitting behind the wheel.

The point is that a logger can make the difference between spending 2 weeks and $300.00 in parts alone chasing a problem vs spending $20.00 on the right sensor to correct the problem.

Get the code read, post back the findings and we can REALLY help you diagnose this problem with facts and proven diagnostic practices instead of guess work and wasted money.
Doug

PS that one ground strap alone not being in place will not cause your problem. The more grounds the better but that's not your problem.

 

[Spooling99]

Loose belts won't cause a rough idle. Your altenator may cause a CEL but I seriously doubt that's the problem here. I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume that you're kind new to the DSM thing. Get a logger. There's alot of different problems that can pop up on a DSM that you can't figure out without a scan tool or logger of some sort.

A Common mistake of the newer members is the bandwagon repairs. Meaning... a member has a CEL and runs rough. He does the right thing and gets the code and finds out it's an Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, replaces it and he's done. The guy then posts his complaint, the cause and the correction. Next thing we know there's 10 other people posting "I had the same symptoms, I'm going to do the same thing!". What worked for one person with a problem won't always work for the next ten even though they all had the same symptoms sitting behind the wheel.

The point is that a logger can make the difference between spending 2 weeks and $300.00 in parts alone chasing a problem vs spending $20.00 on the right sensor to correct the problem.

Get the code read, post back the findings and we can REALLY help you diagnose this problem with facts and proven diagnostic practices instead of guess work and wasted money.
Doug

PS that one ground strap alone not being in place will not cause your problem. The more grounds the better but that's not your problem.

Thanks doug. I'll havta go in and get it checked i'll keep you guys posted on what the real problem is.

Do you think that getting a logger is worth it on a stock engine or should I just go get the code read and go from there?
Once again thanks for the help
-ADAM-

 

[Doug99RS]

It's an excellent diagnostic tool. The common misconception is that it's only used for tuning. The perfect response to that is you have a check engine light on a stock vehicle. If you think you'll NEVER have a check engine light on this car again then don't buy one.

 

[Spooling99]

Thanks for all your help Doug. I'll pick one up and i'll need a palm too right?
-ADAM-

 

[Doug99RS]

You'll need a PDA and the logger software and cable. This is something you should be able to find with a little research. I wouldn't recomend buying a brand new state of the art PDA for this. There's plenty of people who have ebay PDA's that are just enough to log with and they spend less that $75.00 for it. The software and cable will be a bit more but well worth the money when you compare it to a dealership adventure.
D

 

[Spooling99]

on dsmparts.com they have a data scan tool for 250$ does that sound reasonable or should i just look to find a whole set up from the classifieds
i know if i got the scan tool i'll need to get a palm and the cable.

 

[Doug99RS]

Got a link to it? I'm thinking you might be able to squeek out a lil cheaper with a PDA based software.

 

[Spooling99]

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=414&cat=162&page=1

 

[Booster-Shot]

Dataloggers are great tools, but if you are looking for something quick and cheap until you get one, I think you should go and get the battery/alternator testor from radioshack. Like I said its like 3 dollars and you could go run down right now buy it and figure out what code you are throwing. Of course it doesnt compare to a logger but you will know whats going on to a certain extent. All you do it hook it up to the diagnostic port and the tester will begin to flash. The number of flashes will determine what code you are throwing.

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Ps- In the classified section and ebay they have some really good deals for loggers. The norm I have seen is about 75-90 and thats everything you need. (classified ads here rule)

 

[Spooling99]

Yeah ive been checking them out thanks booster shot i just might have to make a quick run to radioshack tomorrow
-ADAM-

 

[Booster-Shot]

You probably know this but all the cel codes are in the shop manual or if you dont have one they are up on www.vfaq.com Good luck-



ps- yeah I love my littler tester. Im planning on buying a logger soon but I just keep it in my glove box for now and I must have used it at least 5 times.

 

[Spooling99]

i'll keep you guys posted i'll probably go to Radioshak tomorrow afternoon
-ADAM-

 

[oldman]

The software and cable will be a bit more but well worth the money when you compare it to a dealership adventure.

mmcd is free for 1G's. 2G

A $25 palm m100 off ebay, a $15-$20 logger cable, download mmcd and you're good to go.