Car still won't start

[MarcVIII]

I have a 97 GSt Spyder thats been at the Mitsu dealer for nearly a year diagnosis electrical gremlins. The tech seems like a knowledgeable guy, 20+ years Mitsu experience and Master Tech certified.

Anyways heres my quick sob story. I was wiring my fuel pump for a big wire, decided to stop mid-way through the project. As I was tightening my battery terminals, the battery was grounded by my strut tower bar through my ratchet. The fuel pump wiring wasn't installed on the fuel pump side or attached to the battery, just plumbed in the car in preparation. The thing wouldn't start after that. The dash lights would illuminate, but no ignition. It attempts to start when twisting the key the first time. But then something odd happens. The dash lights stay on after you pull the key! When you put the key back in, it will not attempt to start.

At the time I had codes for the IAC and the MAF. Since I had spare of both of these off my 97 TSi awd parts car, I tried replacing those. The Mitsu tech says he doesn't get any codes.

I got a junkyard ECU, same part number on the casing. Tried changing those out. The relays behind the stero all changed out with new ones. The Mistu tech tried skipping over the stock ignition switch electric component. Keep in mind he has a scan tool on the car and has followed through an ALL-DATA type flow chart.

The Mitsu Tech says the pin on the ECU corresponding the the ignition stays powered after the ignition is backed off from start. He has called Mitsu tech line for assistance. We are both befuddled by this problem.

I'm losing my mind trying to hunt down this issue. Anyone have any insight?

 

[b00stedAWD]

Does it crank?

 

[costas14]

yea when you swapped ecus the codes cleared so you would need to drive it to pull up any codes again

 

[MarcVIII]

Does it crank?

You can hold the key on all day long, it'll attempt to turn over but just won't fire. Battery level is fine. I haven't actually altered the fuel pump wiring so any botched job there is negated. I don't have any tuning items on the car. Basic bolt-ons on it-exhaust, mbc, intake, uicp, bov.

The other weird thing is when I pull my key out, the battery and oil lights in the dash stay on and the car stays powered as if in the accessory position on the key switch. This goes away when you unplug the battery, but comes back when you crank it.

I know I'm getting fuel cause I pulled the plugs and saw that it was dumping fuel. Again, I didn't do anything on the fuel pump, just prepared the wire to get ready to be utilized when I fix this issue. It seemed it would sometimes spark cause I pulled a wire and watched it arc, although sometimes it would and other times it wouldn't. Wires are in good shape and I never had any problems starting before.

The car did have a system in it when I bought it, so I didn't wire it. Subs in the trunk, old amp, crossover, and in-car adjustment knobs. But I don't think thats the issue here as the car was problem and CEL free before this instance.

Just adding any detail I can think for you guys to think about.

 

[gob4sho89]

Did you check all of your fuses? Like the alternator fuse? I know when that blows things tend to turn on but not off...

 

[MarcVIII]

Did you check all of your fuses? Like the alternator fuse? I know when that blows things tend to turn on but not off...

Its at the shop right now but I am pretty certain all the fuses were good before sending it off. I recall checking the ones in the footwell and under hood.

 

[gob4sho89]

Even the ones that require a socket to remove?

 

[MarcVIII]

Even the ones that require a socket to remove?

I don't recall touching the socketed ones, but I imagine since this dealership has had it for such a long time and the tech is a Master-certified Mitsu tech its been looked into.

I can ask if he checked them, any specific ones to look out for?

 

[gob4sho89]

Wish I knew, I would just go crazy with an ohm meter and check them all. Sometimes I have found a fuse break/blow where you can not see visually. HTH

 

[eeeewidner]

What about the automatic shut down relay. And on the other hand, what if your camshaft and crankshaft sensor are out of sync. You would lose either spark or injector pulse with that. And another thing is check all grounds to the ecu...

 

[costas14]

OMFG how did this blow my mind, ignition control module. Change that asap and get back to us. No questions change that asap the dealer has them for 150 and aftermarket bosch ones sell for that much. CHANGE IT ASAP! THAT IS THE PROBLEM. If thats gone then no crank what so ever. It can also cut out at high speeds. Please change it asap and get back to us. Dont test the old one just change it ASAP.

 

[b00stedAWD]

Bump

If you have a friend with dsm just use your friend's. It seems like you're not getting any spark since you're able to see fuel on your plugs. Find another ignitor and see if that helps.

 

[MarcVIII]

Thanks for the quick responses!!

What about the automatic shut down relay. And on the other hand, what if your camshaft and crankshaft sensor are out of sync. You would lose either spark or injector pulse with that. And another thing is check all grounds to the ecu...

Where is the automatic shut down relay located?

OMFG how did this blow my mind, ignition control module. Change that asap and get back to us. No questions change that asap the dealer has them for 150 and aftermarket bosch ones sell for that much. CHANGE IT ASAP! THAT IS THE PROBLEM. If thats gone then no crank what so ever. It can also cut out at high speeds. Please change it asap and get back to us. Dont test the old one just change it ASAP.

Where is the ignition control module located? I have a 97 TSi AWD atx I'm stealing parts off of. Will those work even though mine is a FWD 5-speed?

 

[costas14]

not sure, my gsx was hacked up so it was hanging on top of the intake manifold, if yours was all stock when you bought it then no clue

 

[b00stedAWD]

It's located between your intake manifold between and fuel rail. Close to injector #3.

 

[MarcVIII]

I have changed the ignition control module, ECU, MAF, MAP sensor, ignition / fuel pump relays, short-pathed the wiring past the ignition cylinder. I've tried these each individually. None of these are allowing a start.

The iginition wiring circuit stays hot and doesn't turn off unless the ECU is diconnected from the car or the Fuel pump relay is pulled. Are there any other ideas to try to get this car to run?

I don't see anything that could've made the car's cams phase out and not being read properly by CAS. The Mitsu Tech and I are both baffled and unsure what else to try. Any other ideas?

 

[black_gst]

OMFG how did this blow my mind, ignition control module. Change that asap and get back to us. No questions change that asap the dealer has them for 150 and aftermarket bosch ones sell for that much. CHANGE IT ASAP! THAT IS THE PROBLEM. If thats gone then no crank what so ever. It can also cut out at high speeds. Please change it asap and get back to us. Dont test the old one just change it ASAP.

hes talkin about the ignitor it will either be on the back of the intake or by the fuel injectors its a big plud that looks like your MAS plug if that fried you def wouldent get any spark

 

[b00stedAWD]

Try different cam and crank angle sensor or test both sensors to see if their in working order. I would try different sensors that works on a different car.

 

[MarcVIII]

Here's a question, would simply clicking in these sensors individually and starting another car be enough? Or would the car have to be driven?

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

You obviously have some kind of electrical gremlin and nothing short of checking every wire that connects to something that makes the car run is going to fix it. Lights staying on after you remove the key=you need to start pulling the dash and checking ignition wiring. Something in that harness is fried and shorting out. Get the car out of there unless you're made of money. Over a year? You could have had the dash out and the dash harness replaced in a week. No amount of relay/ecu/coil changing is going to fix the melted wires you've got.