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Car sputters and dies after intake install

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TheTSiGuy

15+ Year Contributor
989
0
Nov 5, 2003
Naperville IL, Illinois
I just noticed this morning after installing my dejontool hard intake pipe, that after running it hard and boosting it, the rpms dip low, and the car dies. Should i have to adjust the BISS screw after installing the intake?

I have no other ideas why. the vacuum hose that was attached has been capped off. still getting 15 hg of vacuum.

Any ideas?
 
Was the dejon pipe, an upper or lower pipe?

make sure the bov return hose is connected correctly.

Make sure all hoses and clamps are connected correctly from the turbo to the throttle body.
 
yea i'm having the same problem, except it was after a greddy 24 row FMIC and big 16g install. sometimes when i lay into it and step in on the clutch it'll drop and die. i'm also running lean. hmm so if ya'll can solve his problem maybe it'll help me to.
 
check these:

- Make sure the MAF connector is on correctly at the intake.

- Make sure all clamps and hoses are tight and "snug". I had a similar problem, the clamp at the wheel well coupler was off all the way. during boost it would leak profusely.

What fuel management system do you have?
 
the 255 provides too much fuel for the stock system to control on its own, youre gonna need a SAFC to tune it. although, you make it sound like this problem just came up after you installed the hard intake pipe, if you dont have the BOV recirculated, our cars tend to bog down and die (i tried to vent the bov to atmosphere once, just for fun and my car did the same thing yours is doing now) so make sure that's corrected. :talon:
 
yeh i had dat prob for about 2 weeks i couldn't find out what it was den my car for some reason went back to normal.....

but anyways just make sure all the hoses are connected and all clamps are tight.
make sure the intake part that attaches to the turbo is tight.
go under the car and make sure licp clamps are tight.
make the vac hose that goes to the bov is connected both to the bov and to the intake manifold.

if its still acting kinda bad dies after you checked all hoses and clamps
then turno your engine on and listen for any type of hissing noise....
and try to figure out where that noise is coming from casue it maybe that you have a very bad boost leak.

and you may have to do a boost leak down test.... :|
 
one more thing, if you think it might be a boost leak, try driving it but only go up to about 2k - 2.5k rpms, then let off the throttle, check how the car is running, then try going up to 3k - 3.5k rpms (the car should be boosting, just a little though, but its enough) and let off the throttle, is it sputters and dies, its a boost leak.

i had this problem one time when driving home from the shop, one of my IC pipes managed to get loose and was leaking boost easily. i had to keep the rpms low so not to get any boost generated in the pipes, or else id kill the car.

also, if you disconnected the battery for any reason, the ECU might still be trying to "get used to the car" (that probably sounds dumb, but every time i disconnect mine, my car idles badly and sometimes it dies after boosting, but it fixes itself after a while)
 
ok guys, i do remember one thing...

when i put the intake on, the hose that goes from the bov to the intake, i ripped the clamp off of the part that goes onto the intake and just tried to shove the hose on....do i need that clamp? its clamp-less right now...could it be leaking under boost??
 
TheTSiGuy said:
ok guys, i do remember one thing...

when i put the intake on, the hose that goes from the bov to the intake, i ripped the clamp off of the part that goes onto the intake and just tried to shove the hose on....do i need that clamp? its clamp-less right now...could it be leaking under boost??

not trying to be a smartass, but i always have had the theory that if it comes clamped, it needs to stay clamped. That goes for wires too, but i'm anal about that kind of stuff....

clamps are cheap, can't hurt to try
 
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