Car running like S***

[1gentalonfan]

same question just different topic, so my balance shaft belt broke on me a couple days ago and luckily for me it didnt take my timing belt with it, it just slipped a tooth or two and took a small abrasion out of it. i just didnt put a new bs belt in but the shaft is still sitting in there, partly because ive been meaning to remove them in general and partly because i needed my car done now, but here's the problem, now that its all put back together it ran great right after i got it all back together just a little engine vibration which i expected but after it warmed up it started dropping down to almost 400 rpm when i pushed the clutch in and it would catch it self and jump back up, so i adjusted the cam angle sensor so it would advance timing a little more which didnt really help, now when i went to start it today it stuttered horribly and has a major loss of power but no CEL, and i tried adjusting the cam angle sensor and the tps but neither helped. im lost and need to get it running right again. any help is much needed. also could it be my map sensor thats going because i have a new maf that i just put in off a southern parts car taht looked brand new, along with a new o2 sensor. my injectors tick and i know they need to be cleaned out but this cant be the only problem can it, because my car has cut out when at a steady throttle around 2000 rpm for a long time now it just does it horribly worse

 

[oldman]

1. Did you re-do the timing belt or just cut the BS belt off?

2. You are not suppose to just blindly rotate your CAS, there are specific procedures that must be followed when adjusting/setting base timing.

 

[1gentalonfan]

no my bs belt broke which made my t-belt slip and screwed my timing up and screwed my t-belt a little bit. i just didnt put in a new bs belt and i put in a new t-belt.

also what do i need to do then to adjust my cas

 

[olmytsi]

You need a balance shaft belt unless you do the balance shaft elimination. You need a timing light to adjust your cam angle sensor.

 

[1gentalonfan]

really but ive heard from a lot of people that you can leave the front shaft in and that it doesnt matter, its just if you want to completely remove your balance shafts you ahve to get a stub shaft for the rear one so you still have an oil pump but i have a timing light just never used it and im not sure how to

 

[oldman]

no my bs belt broke which made my t-belt slip and screwed my timing up and screwed my t-belt a little bit. i just didnt put in a new bs belt and i put in a new t-belt.

1. Did you replace all the neccessary parts other than the belt like tensioner pulley, idler pulley, auto tensioner.....etc.?

2. Are you sure valves didn't bend on the original belt slipperage?

3. Have you double check the timing marks or perform a compression test since the completion of timing belt job?

also what do i need to do then to adjust my cas

Assuming you're not mistaking CAS (2.0) with a distributor (1.8), this is how to properly adjust your 1g 2.0 NT ignition timing.

 

[1gentalonfan]

no i have a 7-bolt nt but if my valves were bent wouldnt it have run bad right after i got done with it and wouldnt i hear them knocking because there is no noise coming from my head also before the job i had 190 for dry comp all the way across but i guess i can go do the test again

 

[oldman]

no i have a 7-bolt nt but

Doesn't matter, same link and same procedure.

 

[1gentalonfan]

i know i was just saying im postive its not a 1.8 but i just did a dry comp test with the digital tester this time and got really high numbers actually i think they may be too high if thats possible because as far as i know 192 is standard and i just got piston 1 204 piston 2 206 piston 3 205 piston 4 207 also when i took my plugs out they were black which if i remember right is a sign of running rich or could the plugs just be bad. im running bosch platimun +4s which ive heard arent right for the car and they are only like 13000 miles old along with the wires so im kinda confused

 

[wvturbo2]

if you just leave balance shaft chilling you should have a horrible vibration from 2k up along with cut out also i had a injector clip come loose and one of my cyl wasn't firing it feels about the same. If you could leave the bs just sitting in there why would anyone waste time taking them out ?

 

[olmytsi]

High compression is probably due to carbon build up on top of the pistons. Try some seafoam or mopar combustion chamber cleaner.

 

[1gentalonfan]

i dont have vibration so much and it has always cut out around 2000 rpm but now i cant get it to idle at all and it idles around 500 when it does and its horribly rough i put new plugs and wires in which were ngk v-powers and its still horrible and ive played with the timing but cant get anything out of it