Can't stop my clutch line from leaking

[Beanokid69]

So my clutch fluid keeps draining and after some inspection i have found that it is leaking from the threaded bolt on the end of the clutch line (the bolt that threads into the piece that the eye bolt passes through.

I have replaced the clutch line which came with new thread bolts, replaced the copper washers on the eyes bolt, and used thread sealant tape on the culprit...STILL leaks... What can I do to stop this leak?

I can provide a picture if needed

 

[kchaazz]

Are you saying that the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder is leaking? Did you make sure there arent any burrs on the faces of the banjo fitting, slave cylinder body and underside of the bolt flange? (all surfaces that the crush washers contact) Also, be sure to torque the bolt to 21 ftlbs, I believe.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Are you sure it's leaking at the connection and not at the rod? Pull back the boot and see if it's wet. If it is, it's leaking from the rod piston.

By the way, that connection is a banjo fitting. The bolt is called a banjo bolt

 

[Beanokid69]

No the slave cylinder is the first thing I checked it is definitely coming from the threaded side of the banjo bolt (thanks for the name who names these bolts) I didn't torque the banjo bolt to the new clutch line but it is on there as tight as I could get it and with threat tape around it...Also the only part that had washers was the banjo side, not the side that the line is on

 

[squeak104]

The bolt doesn't need any sealant on it. It seals from the copper washers. There is supposed to be two on it. One between line and slave cylinder and one between line and bolt head.

 

[Beanokid69]

I'm not talking about the eye bolt... That has the washers and doesn't leak...im talking about the banjo bolt...The part that threads from the line itself leaks. (where the line threads into the banjo bolt is my problem area)

 

[bryanwheat]

I'm not talking about the eye bolt... That has the washers and doesn't leak...im talking about the banjo bolt...The part that threads from the line itself leaks. (where the line threads into the banjo bolt is my problem area)

What you just said makes no sense whatsoever. You said that you are not talking about the eye bolt, what is an eye bolt. You said that it has washers on it, THAT IS THE BANJO BOLT. Are you talking about the flared fitting that threads in to the fitting that attaches to the slave? If so than that doesn't need any teflon tape, it is a flare fitting. Either the flare on the line is damaged, the sealing surface inside the fitting is damaged, or you just don't have it tight enough.

 

[Beanokid69]

The eye bolt is the bolt that threads into the slave cylinder (it holds the washers... The fitting I'm talking about is what the eye bolt passes thru before being threaded into the slave...it looks banjo shaped...its what physically attaches to the clutch line (no washer from line to fitting and as tight as possible and still leaks) I checked both the fittings threads and the side that makes contact with the 2 washer neither appear to be damaged...i was gonna replace the fitting anyway since it's leaking even with a new clutch line but neither auto parts store carry them

 

[bryanwheat]

The eye bolt is the bolt that threads into the slave cylinder (it holds the washers... The fitting I'm talking about is what the eye bolt passes thru before being threaded into the slave...it looks banjo shaped...its what physically attaches to the clutch line (no washer from line to fitting and as tight as possible and still leaks) I checked both the fittings threads and the side that makes contact with the 2 washer neither appear to be damaged...i was gonna replace the fitting anyway since it's leaking even with a new clutch line but neither auto parts store carry them

What you are calling an eye bolt is the banjo bolt. The part that is leaking is where the steel line threads into the fitting. Pull the line off and look at the end and make sure that the flare on the line isn't damaged. If it isn't damaged than you just need to get the fitting tighter. What are you using to tighten it, a normal wrench, or a flare nut wrench? Also if you buy a new slave cylinder it will come with that fitting. It probably won't help though, because it is nearly impossible for the flare surface inside of it to be damaged.

 

[Beanokid69]

Ok cause the writeup on replacing the slave cylinder calls it an eye bolt...the flare is perfect because it's a brand new line...i couldn't possibly get it any tighter...im using an open ended wrench on the line bolt and a pair of pliers to hold the fitting

 

[bryanwheat]

Ok cause the writeup on replacing the slave cylinder calls it an eye bolt...the flare is perfect because it's a brand new line...i couldn't possibly get it any tighter...im using an open ended wrench on the line bolt and a pair of pliers to hold the fitting

Oh, you can get it tighter if you are just using an open end wrench. You don't need to hold the fitting with anything when you tighten it, it should be bolted to the slave when you are tightening the nut. Most of the time you will round off the nut with a open end wrench before you get it tight enough for it to not leak. Go but a 10mm flare end wrench.

 

[Beanokid69]

Ok ill try and tighten it more tomorrow... I did it when it was off the slave because when it's attached the banjo bolt sits right above the sub frame so that would be a pita to tighten like that...

 

[bryanwheat]

Ok ill try and tighten it more tomorrow... I did it when it was off the slave because when it's attached the banjo bolt sits right above the sub frame so that would be a pita to tighten like that...

IF you have to, you can drop the crossmember, it doesn't take long to drop it down. The advantage is that you will be able to get a lot more leverage on it with the slave bolted to the transmission. You will not have to hold the pliers while trying to tighten the nut. Also make sure to get the flare wrench.

 

[Beanokid69]

Ok ill do that tomorrow and post the results...that flare looks to be made of copper so I was worried about damaging it with the pliers or stripping the threads but I guess I'll just tighten the $h*t out of it... Also how tight should the banjo bolt be in the slave?

 

[bryanwheat]

Ok ill do that tomorrow and post the results...that flare looks to be made of copper so I was worried about damaging it with the pliers or stripping the threads but I guess I'll just tighten the $h*t out of it... Also how tight should the banjo bolt be in the slave?

The banjo to slave bolt should be around 18-25 ft/lbs.

 

[turboglenn]

Banjo bolt through what you're calling the eye bolt should only leak if it's damaged, however the metal line threading into the banjo bolt is a flared coupler and those when over-tightened can be damaged enough to not seal, as well as hav ing the smallest piece of debris in there will cause it not to seal.

My advice is make a SS line from master to slave from -3 (don't use -4 unless you like vacum bleeding over a quart of fluid through your line to barely get it right) a -3 bleeds easier than stock.

I don't know what they sell for online but i built mine locally for under 30 bucks with extra parts left over., the OEM line is crap from about the transmission area (Where it turns rubber) all the way to the slave/banjo bolt (eye bolt is a term that some one used due to not knowing the proper term, it looks like a banjo is why it's called a banjo bolt, to which there's the fitting and the bolt, the two together make a "banjo bolt"

 

[Beanokid69]

As I said the clutch line was replace with a new piece and still leaked... IV decided to just order the ss kit from rre and eliminate the reservoir on the tranny while I'm doing this...thanks tho