Can I Heat Caliper Up?

[ryan90]

The bleeder screw on my drivers front was seized into the caliper and brittle apparantly as i broke the head off cleanly with a wrench.

anyways. there's enough thread showing on the screw to grab with locking pliers. Can I head the area around the screw or will that hurt anything? the seal on the piston possibly?

my brake fluid is like a lipton tea color so I am flushing all fluid out too.

 

[B005T3D_1]

there is a fine line between wether or not this will work, as the calipers are made out of aluminum, and react horribly to heat. for the time and aggrivation it may cause you, i would just replace it. at the place i work, we never risk future failure of the caliper, and a caliper failing really isnt worth the change you'll save right now. its always a good idea to change your brake fluid, we usually do it based on boiling point, but if its any color other than clear or very slightly tinted, change it!!!! discoloration is usually a sign of another petrol based product being introduced into your system. in turn this lowers your boiling point and can eventually cause your brake fluid to boil due to extreme heat built up by the calipers. YES your brake fluid CAN boil inside the lines causing air bubbles to form. sorry for rambling, hope this helps.

 

[ryan90]

never knew they were aluminum.... thanks!

so no heat....

 

[Defiant]

there is a fine line between wether or not this will work, as the calipers are made out of aluminum,

Wat? WTF

PB Blaster the day before, then localized heat. Tap smartly with a small hammer, repeatedly, but not hard enough to deform the stub- save the wallop for adjacent to the caliper where the bleeder screws in. Have a non-spiral EZ-out available for when you round off the protruding bit of bleeder.

 

[steve]

the calipers are made out of aluminum, and react horribly to heat. for the time and aggrivation it may cause you, i would just replace it.

I've never seen aluminum that rusts red before, what alloy is it. WTF

The DSM calipers are iron not aluminum. I've media blasted them and watched them flash rust. Try using a magnet on them.

The odds of getting a rusted bleeder out once you have snapped the head off are small. Yes you can use heat, but remove the pistons, boots, and seals before hand.

If these are the single piston calipers now might be a good time to upgrade. That was the single most cost effective change I made to the car swapping the ineffective single pistom calipers for the dual piston calipers.

 

[B005T3D_1]

my mistake... d'oh, i thought they were. either way I would still replace them, for me its easier and less to worry about. where do you buy replacement bleeder screws again?????

 

[steve]

Autozone or Advance Auto have the bleeders and usually have speed bleeders too.

The front calipers on the twin turbo 3S cars are alloy.

 

[B005T3D_1]

are you referring to a tt 3000gt? are they interchangable with a 1g? just curious

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

The VR4 calipers are not bolt on. Modification must be done. Only the 3000gt sl are interchangeable.

James

 

[steve]

are you referring to a tt 3000gt? are they interchangable with a 1g? just curious

We call them 3S for 3000GT and Stealth. Simpler than saying 3000GT VR4 and Stealth RT/TT. They are not a bolt on unless you include the whole front knuckle on a 1G. You also need wheels that will clear them or spacers.

Not really worth the effort other than for bling. The dual piston caliper will lock the wheels, it's the rotors not having enough heat capacity that is the shortcoming.

 

[B005T3D_1]

gotcha...3s=3000gt or stealth appreciate the input... this new work schedule has me sleeping 4 or 5 hours at most a day so im kinda out of it lately

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

We call them 3S for 3000GT and Stealth. Simpler than saying 3000GT VR4 and Stealth RT/TT. They are not a bolt on unless you include the whole front knuckle on a 1G. You also need wheels that will clear them or spacers.

Not really worth the effort other than for bling. The dual piston caliper will lock the wheels, it's the rotors not having enough heat capacity that is the shortcoming.

I thought you just have to make your own bracket to connect them to the hub? Similar to the mustang brakes.

James

 

[steve]

I thought you just have to make your own bracket to connect them to the hub? Similar to the mustang brakes.

James

You can but that doesn't count as a bolt on now does it.
The historical way was to snatch the 1G TT knuckles and swap them onto a 1G DSM. That's a bolt on.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

You can but that doesn't count as a bolt on now does it.
The historical way was to snatch the 1G TT knuckles and swap them onto a 1G DSM. That's a bolt on.

HAHa. Good point. For some reason, when you said 1g, i thought you meant a 1g dsm. . Makes sense now.

James

 

[steve]

I did since you couldn't really swap the knuckle from the 3S to a 2G DSM. I was more specific the second time because I couldn't remember if the 2G 3S knuckles swapped over to a 1G DSM.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

What do the 2G 3S knuckles look like? similar to the 2g dsm with the long arm to the upper mount?

James

 

[steve]

similar to the 2g dsm with the long arm to the upper mount?

No, they are McPherson struts like on the 1G for both generations. They use a unit ball bearing setup like 2G DSM's do.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

No, they are McPherson struts like on the 1G for both generations. They use a unit ball bearing setup like 2G DSM's do.

Sorry for not knowing this, what ball bearing setup do you mean?

James