Can any body figure out my dsmlink problem(log)

[Jonnynitrous]

I have tried changing tb's, 3 different maf's ,injectors coils and wires.did a boost leak check, fixed the exhaust gaskets.Right now everything is stock.the maf comp is adjusted to where it seems to run the best.i have did a maf comp adjust and it runs worse.
PLEASE HELP

 

[dceptn]

From what I see in the log AirflowPerRev is around 0.38 you need to aim for 0.25 at idle adjust the maf comp to try lower it, also combinedFT seems to be way off, try remove the deadtime see if that gets you closer to 0% at idle

Also try set your base target idle around 900
I'm also an ECMlink n00b hope that helps though

 

[gofer]

Your ECU is throwing (3) different codes, each showing that the MAF is bad. Check the wiring harness going to your MAF, or if you've swapped to a 2g MAF make sure the wiring is correct. You won't be able to tune the car idling/cruising/WOT until you fix the problem first and once it is fixed ZERO you sliders and start over...

 

[Jonnynitrous]

I have tried adjusting everything that could be adjusted.
Ya the codes that are up are from me unplugging the maf while it was running.
I took the dsmlink out and put a stock computer back in,the car runs perfect.I am sure i got a problem with the socket-ed computer or the dsmlink.
Thanks for helping.

 

[steve]

Post a picture of your ECU board. I doubt the DSMLink is bad but I've seen plenty of bad or poorly repaired ECUs.

 

[gofer]

If the DTC's aren't valid then zero your MAFComp sliders and post a log of the car completely warmed up and make NO adjustments, I'd like to see what your fuel trims are doing.

Like Steve said, maybe take a picture of the socket job on the ECU board because if Tom and Dave didn't do the work then it could be a hack job.

 

[steve]

If the DTC's aren't valid then zero your MAFComp sliders and post a log of the car completely warmed up and make NO adjustments, I'd like to see what your fuel trims are doing.

This is the hazzard of making new threads rather than updating existing ones, people ask you to do the same things as before because they don't have the history.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ed-ecmlink-now-likes-stall.html#post152405704

 

[Jonnynitrous]

This is the hazzard of making new threads rather than updating existing ones, people ask you to do the same things as before because they don't have the history.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ed-ecmlink-now-likes-stall.html#post152405704

Sorry that thread went cold so i figured it needed a new fresh tittle.
Which in turn worked.I'll get a couple pics of the ecu in a bit

ECU

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[steve]

I've seen worst and I've see much better. I wouldn't be surprised if the EMI filters under the heatsink weren't damaged and picking up noise. It's a typical cheap repair job from the "professional" rebuilders.

The wire on the bottom look like it reconnects the A/C clutch to the IC109 driver and that usually caused by capacitor leakage seeping between the pis on the EMI filters. They may have not removed them and cleaned the board and replaced the filter so the leakage continues to eat away at the traces and soak into the filter causing cross coupling of the signals. The also tend to do a poor job replacing the caps and fixing any damage to the power and ground buses. Who ever socketed the ECU didn't bother to clean the board and at least one pin looks like it have a contaminated solder joint.

From the various soldering it may have also been a non-turbo EPROM conversion. What number it printed on the while edge connector. The board is still got the configuration resistors for a FWD car.

 

[Jonnynitrous]

Thanks steve.So where do i send this one + another one to get fixed or eprom'd

 

[steve]

Since I'm not repairing them anymore, I send everyone to Dave at ECMTuning.

 

[Jonnynitrous]

The number on the side of the white connector is 0885H

 

[steve]

That originally was a MD304481 E2T60885 94 NA FWD ECU. So it was converted to a turbo ECU.