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Camber Kits & Tire Rubbing...

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EagleTalon24

10+ Year Contributor
129
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Jan 1, 2010
Seattle, Washington
I have the tokico suspension set (1.25 drop front and 1.25 drop rear springs with tokico gas shocks) My car is already out of alignment now before putting on the springs. It has a positive camber (not sure by how much)

Will I REALLY need camber kits? Would it be best to do the alignment after the suspension drop and then see how my cambers are and then change them? When changing the camber kits you just add a pair of new washers and longer bolts correct?

I also had question about the camber itself my tires are 225 45 17 with 45mm offset and they get REALLY close to rubbing with the camber, like you can only put a piece of paper through the camber and the tire. Does this happen to allot of you?
 
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I definitely would fix the alignment, no reason to wear out the tires prematurely. And yes, you can get bolts and washers from a hardware store, there is a thread about the DIY camber kits somewhere, just gotta search for it.
 
I had the tokico springs. I recommend getting the Ingalls kit for the rear because of the amount of washers needed to compensate for the negative camber. I also used the adjustable upper ball joints for the fronts. They allow for the most positive camber adjustment to get it back to OEM specs.
 
I had the tokico springs. I recommend getting the Ingalls kit for the rear because of the amount of washers needed to compensate for the negative camber. I also used the adjustable upper ball joints for the fronts. They allow for the most positive camber adjustment to get it back to OEM specs.

there is that much negatibe camber for a 1.25 inch drop on the rear?

how many washers do i need for each bolt on the rear im not sure... .
 
So check it out, with almost any ride height change with stock geometry there is going to be toe change.. and that toe change rather than camber as most people think is what will shred your tires down to cord in less than an oil change if done totally wrong. So align the car, you can order some washers from mcmaster carr. they are 10.5id fender washers and they are cheap, you might have to notch them with your dremel or something. but that should work ok in the rear. While your in there you might consider rolling the fenders so you don't shred tires in bump.. (this can be checked by removing springs while the car is on jack stands.. dis connect swaybars and with no springs on each corner jack up each tire to check for clearance in bump..

Cheers
 
So check it out, with almost any ride height change with stock geometry there is going to be toe change.. and that toe change rather than camber as most people think is what will shred your tires down to cord in less than an oil change if done totally wrong. So align the car, you can order some washers from mcmaster carr. they are 10.5id fender washers and they are cheap, you might have to notch them with your dremel or something. but that should work ok in the rear. While your in there you might consider rolling the fenders so you don't shred tires in bump.. (this can be checked by removing springs while the car is on jack stands.. dis connect swaybars and with no springs on each corner jack up each tire to check for clearance in bump..

Cheers
your suggesting to do the allignment FIRST? I recently purshaced ingalls rear camber kit (still waiting for it to arrive)

Is there a way to measure my toe instead of going to the allignment shop?

Just do I can do the rear cambers then go to the allignment after I install the rear camber kit
 
your suggesting to do the allignment FIRST? I recently purshaced ingalls rear camber kit (still waiting for it to arrive)

Is there a way to measure my toe instead of going to the allignment shop?

Just do I can do the rear cambers then go to the allignment after I install the rear camber kit

Set ride height, then set camber, then reset toe to your specs.. like say I was going to put a new set of coil overs on my car I would remove old shocks, disconnect swaybars(one link is fine), set my car at the correct ride height that I want, set camber, check caster(harder to do unless you have the right setup equipment), and reset toe to 0* (my setup is 0 degrees front and rear, you might not want to copy the rear toe on my car LOL) Then reconnect swaybars (I would also likely do corner weights but that's another day.

The thing most people do wrong is they don't adjust toe after a ride height change.. they put lowering springs on, and then wonder why their tires are destroyed in 2000 miles LOL.
 
Set ride height, then set camber, then reset toe to your specs.. like say I was going to put a new set of coil overs on my car I would remove old shocks, disconnect swaybars(one link is fine), set my car at the correct ride height that I want, set camber, check caster(harder to do unless you have the right setup equipment), and reset toe to 0* (my setup is 0 degrees front and rear, you might not want to copy the rear toe on my car LOL) Then reconnect swaybars (I would also likely do corner weights but that's another day.

The thing most people do wrong is they don't adjust toe after a ride height change.. they put lowering springs on, and then wonder why their tires are destroyed in 2000 miles LOL.

in other words install rear cambers to my best prediction then take my car to the alignment shop right?
 
As I've posted before, there will probably be a shop or two around you that should give free alignment checks. Maybe try and locate one of them.

kind of hard finding that these days since more then half of the alignment process as a whole is setting the machine to all four tires and running the computer

i will just put 3 washers with longer bolts on each bolt of the rear camber and let the allignment shop go from there
 
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