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Resolved Cam caps and 7-bolt head bolt torque specs

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bcjjones

10+ Year Contributor
509
6
Nov 3, 2011
Austin, Texas
93 eclipse non turbo. Read that the head bolts should be tightened to 54 ft lbs. But now im reading in the Chilton manual that they should be tightened to 54 ft lbs and them completely loosened and re tightened to ONLY 15 ft lbs. Is that correct?

Also what is the correct ft lbs for tightening the camshaft bearing caps?

Can't believe anything I read now!
 
Bearing caps are 14-15 ft-lbs.

The numbers you have for the head bolts sound correct for a 7-bolt. Here's the procedure straight from the FSM: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...lt-block-timing-differance.html#post152484634

Per the FSM, the torquing procedure is as follows:

  • Tighten to 58 ft. lbs in this order:
    7 5 2 4 10
    9 3 1 6 8​
  • Loosen them fully in the reverse order:
    4 6 9 7 1
    2 8 10 5 3​
  • Tighten in the order first shown to 14 ft. lbs.
  • Apply a 1/4 (90 degree) clockwise turn to each bolt.
  • Apply another 1/4 (90 degree) clockwise turn to each bolt.
 
This is why you should throw the chilton manual in the trash. It's partially correct. 7bolt motors use a torque to yield style head bolt. Correct is a sequenced tighten to 58 ft lb. Loosen fully in reverse order. Tighten again in sequence to 15 ft lbs and then another quarter turn in sequence and then a second quarter turn in sequence. The sequence numbers are as follows. intake side pasenger side to driver 7524 (10)
exhaust side pasenger to driver 93168.
Factory manual will never steer you wrong. These specs were taken from a 96 manual for the turbo model but the head gasket part is the same part number as are the head bolts. No reason for me to suspect any different sequence or torque figure NT or not. 6 bolt, entirely different.
 
ya niether of those is enough there are aditional angles you turn the bolts. ive done several compleat head jobs and i personaly dont follow chiltons i criss cross from inside out. first pass snug 2nd pass tight 3rd pass verry verry tight.my personal thought is that those specs are for stock compesion, boost and so on.i over tighten when adding extra horse power.i have allready made the mistake of using stock specs and blowing out the gasket. if your adding power do some research, you may need different specs.
 
Got it. The chiltons actually does say two sets of a quarter turn. Just not very clearly. So basically, I'd be putting over 70 ft lb on the bolts after the quarter turns?

Also was looking at my timing belt, how much slack is normal? I know a little water dripped on it via the water pump weep hole. Could that damage the belt?
 
So basically, I'd be putting over 70 ft lb on the bolts after the quarter turns?

No. You have no way of knowing what the torque is unless you measured it. There is no torque spec. From the manual you shouldn't overtighten these bolts. There is a stretch value to the bolt that shouldn't be exceeded. Being an NT I'd just follow the specs. You shouldn't need anything more.
 
i agree to start from inside and criss cross working your way out. definitely the proper way to go... i have always used ARPs... for any horsepower application, and i followed ARPs instructions.. first pass snug, second 50ft/lbs, third 70, fourth 85. never had a problem. :hellyeah:
 
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