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Buying an '92 Eclipse GSX

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04scooby

15+ Year Contributor
64
0
Jul 20, 2005
Blackwell, Oklahoma
Im looking for a turbo back exhaust(something that sounds good and not like a pissed off weed eater :D ), O2 housing pipe, intake (k&n filter type), and headers and looking for brand names that are good for the dsm. This is my bf's acct that i took over and im looking at buying the same car that he was interested in.

I am basically looking for start out mods that are going to give good horsepower/performance. any information would be great... :)

Thanks
Kera
 
Dont worry no turboback will make you car sound like a weedwacker. It will sound very pissed though. :rocks:


Ps. My girlfriend wants a passat. :notgood:
 
LET-M03 MITSUBISHI Eclipse GSX 1989-1994 2.0 Turbo N-2 65 60 $660.00
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=829

1gN DSM & GM MAS Curved Intake Pipe (sizes 2.75" 3" & 3.5")
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2817&

Evo O2 housing
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1352&

Stainless Tubular if you not using a blow off valve
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1970&

Cast Manifold w/ 7cm Gasket (NEW AND IMPROVED) if you are gonna vent
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1891&

A lot of these mods are dependent on what turbo and or wastegate setup you will be using.
 
I think the best exhaust you can get is a good custom made one. its cheap.

you can buy a good cat and straight through muffler (Megan racing) off of ebay and even a down pipe for less than 200

then have them welded up at a exhaust shop. (buy mandrel bent elbows if you want your exhaust mandrel bent) You seriously looking around 400 for a whole exhaust that like half the price of most. And it sounds and looks the same.
 
sweet.. thanks....

i have been trying to read up on some of this and it is just alot to take in on a short time and understand since im not that car smart.. :)

ill read up on those though... :D

Kera
 
04scooby said:
Im looking for a turbo back exhaust(something that sounds good and not like a pissed off weed eater :D ), O2 housing pipe, intake (k&n filter type), and headers and looking for brand names that are good for the dsm. This is my bf's acct that i took over and im looking at buying the same car that he was interested in.

I am basically looking for start out mods that are going to give good horsepower/performance. any information would be great... :)

Thanks
Kera


Hey you... yeah you... welcome aboard. to put it into perspective of the mods you want to do I would suggest that the best bang for you buck would be 3 things you will use for life first.

1. Boost Gauge (Most vital tool to us, gets you no HP but man do you need one)
2. MBC (Manual Boost Controller, Turn that bad boy up. Note: not too much though)
3. Datalogger and AFC at the same time.. (for you to be able to tune the car.)
4. Exhuast starting with the (downpipe and catback and custom might be cheaper so it might be better for you but wont flow as well.. but unless you are crazy like us you don't need it to flow that well)
5. Intake (Dejontool.com sells them and they are pretty good)
6. Exhaust version 2. Exhaust manifold + new O2 sensor housing, & racing cat/testpipe

For more than just fun

7. Turbo E16G or a 20g will fit in the exhaust manifolds
8. Injectors and Fuel Pump
9. FMIC
10. Block
11. Head
12. Slicks
 
EvolvingGST said:
4. Exhuast starting with the (downpipe and catback and custom might be cheaper so it might be better for you but wont flow as well.. but unless you are crazy like us you don't need it to flow that well)
A pipe is a pipe...As long as the bends are the same, why wouldn't a custom one flow as well, if not have less severe bends to flow better? I would go custom if I were you, I hope to in the near future.
 
thanks for that info....

do you guys have any preferences in brand names on some of those (that you didnt list brand names on)?

just to get an idea of what works best with these types of engines....
 
Dream On said:
A pipe is a pipe...As long as the bends are the same, why wouldn't a custom one flow as well, if not have less severe bends to flow better? I would go custom if I were you, I hope to in the near future.


Most custom exhaust uses crush bent pipes which is not as smooth as mandrel bent so thus the flow is not the same, just because they have the same angles and looks the same does not make them the same. The flow rates are completely different. If you have done ANY research than it has been said time and time again. It is said that a 3 inch crush bent exhaust only flows as much as a 2.5 inch mandrel bent exhaust.

I would love to see you find custom exhaust company that really uses mandrel bends, because i can guarantee you there are very few out there and the ones that do have the mandrel benders charge more than 75 bucks. Ofcourse they are still cheaper than the 500 dollar exhausts from brand name companies but I have yet to see one with mandrel bends that is less than 200 dollars.

Point being that it is still less than a brand name one but people buy those for a reason, and that is because they have been proven. Yes if you want a OK fast car you can get a crush bent exhaust but if you are looking for top line performance and you are a nut like me you get the stuff you know works.
 
Like I said above. buy a few 2.5" or 3" mandrel bent U shaped exhaust pipes. You can get them off of ebay. Normally exhaust shops can get them also. Then it will flow exactly the same. And its half the price.
 
exhaust- go custom~$300
intake pipe- ebay~$60
2g manifold~$100
O2 housing- port it yourself~FREE
mbc- make your own (see the diy section of dsmtuner) or ebay~$25
K&N drop in and hack airbox~$40
Autometer boost gauge- buy it anywhere~$55

You don't need a safc or datalogger at this stage, just keep it under 16psi. If you are boosting too much the ecu will tell you by stopping your acceloration.... fuel cut... LOL You'll know when you hit it. Have fun and don't break it...... like that's avoidable.. ;)
 
I wasn't talking about getting crush bent pipes. Yeah, that wouldn't flow as well, for obvious reasons. I meant that if you use the same bends (mandrel) or less severe, custom is the way to go. Its cheaper. I've done my research, thanks. The first place I went to ask about making a custom exhaust said they had a mandrel bender...Just at some muffler shop I went to by the way, so I figure that real exhaust shops would have them as well.
 
im not going extreme im only looking at going with a catless exhaust setup, and i wanted to know what brands sounded good and what air intakes are best for this car. Im also having the stock turbo rebuilt, port and polished at deadbolt for $250 for just some power increase and what is stock boost (psi) for each gear? Will this car hold 16psi in every gear and are there adverse effects to having partial throttle full boost?

I have a question about the balance shaft elimiator kit - the guy has recently rebuilt the engine and it hasnt been started since it was rebuilt, however, the guy did state that he jb welded the bearing for the balance shaft in place because the bearing spun prior to the rebuild.
Would that pose an issue or should i have it tore down and a larger bearing installed to get the jb weld out of the engine.
 
I wouldn't worry about an intake. that crap is for Honda boys. I mean get one, but get on later. You can spend your money differently to get more power right now. First Buy the correct k/n filter and put that on. You can cut the canister and use the ring to install the filter. then turn up you boost and do your exhaust. If you want some kind of piping buy a upper and lower pipe before you buy a intake pipe. The gains you will see from a intake pipe are very minimal at this point.

The exhaust. 30-50 dollar muffler from ebay, downpipe 120$ from ebay, and shit just go with a 2.5" press bent exhaust. I know A guy making well over 350 hp on one. Its fine. The thing is as long as the exhaust shop is smart. On the awd car you can minimize the bends and the air flow is hardly restricted using 2.5". Or you can buy the mandrel bends off of ebay or something. If you do decided to go mandrel bent. Don't believe most muffler shops that say they can mandrel bend stuff. Because most shops can not afford a mandrel bender. There more than a little pricey.

For the balance shaft thing. They must have installed the balance shaft removal kit. which should be fine. It requires you to use jb weld. The thing is i prefer to unhook the front shaft and let it sit. Then full the lower shaft spin the bearing and cut the shaft and and bolt the end up using it as a cap. works everytime Ive seen it done. Anyways I hope that helps a little.
 
how does it require to use jb weld on that? my bf helped his friend install one on his conquest and all they did was slide the bearings in and they were tight fitting and they didnt have any instructions on it.
I also read on a site for the balance shaft emilimator walkthrough, it said something about rotating the bearings 180 degrees to block off the oil holes. is that an absolute step.


also, how much heat can Jb weld stand up to? i was told it wasnt that much?
 
so are you saying that instead of using a bearing without a hole or sliding the oiling hole 180 degrees they just jb welded up the oiling hole? because that would be kinda dumb. I have hear of jb weld doing something or another with bs removal. I read a bunch of threads but could not find it. I have read it on here before so i will search some more. Like I said I do it the way i mentioned before above.
 
what muffler do you guys reccomend? Do you have any sound clips of the megan muffler? I tried looking on the page with all the exhaust clips but most of them have expired.
 
Honestly straight through mufflers sound all about the same. A lot of noise vareation with the apex-i systems comes from the baffles they have further up the exhaust. Cats also make a diff.

they sound pretty much as cool as any apex-i n1 straight through muffler is going to sound. I perfer a longer muffler so for me the longer the better. It makes it a little deeper sounding.
 
tim4g63fast said:
so are you saying that instead of using a bearing without a hole or sliding the oiling hole 180 degrees they just jb welded up the oiling hole?


According to the guy that built the engine, the orginal bearing spun and was tore up by the balance shaft(must have been driven for a while after the bearing spun) wobbling so the place where the bearing goes was worn down. So when he rebuilt the engine, he JB Welded the new bearing in place so it would not move. Now I am assuming he put the balance shaft back in becuase he seemed disappointed that he hadnt known about the BS elim option prior to the rebuild.

I am thinking about just rebuilding the engine with stornger internals. Since I have no idea what components I would need r where to get them, can you guys give me a list of items and websites to order them from? I plan of getting the engine balanced and blueprinted and set it up for pretty much any semi-wild setup at a later date.

As far as exhaust, I was wonder what eveyone thought of the flowmaster delta flow 60 series since it is specifically designed for a small displacment engine.
 
04scooby said:
According to the guy that built the engine, the orginal bearing spun and was tore up by the balance shaft(must have been driven for a while after the bearing spun) wobbling so the place where the bearing goes was worn down. So when he rebuilt the engine, he JB Welded the new bearing in place so it would not move. Now I am assuming he put the balance shaft back in becuase he seemed disappointed that he hadnt known about the BS elim option prior to the rebuild.

I am thinking about just rebuilding the engine with stornger internals. Since I have no idea what components I would need r where to get them, can you guys give me a list of items and websites to order them from? I plan of getting the engine balanced and blueprinted and set it up for pretty much any semi-wild setup at a later date.

As far as exhaust, I was wonder what eveyone thought of the flowmaster delta flow 60 series since it is specifically designed for a small displacment engine.

well you know my opinion of the exhaust. A mandrel bent pipe is a mandrel bent pipe and i urge you to go custom.

If you rebuilt you will need a number of things. Ill list what comes off the top of my head

Rebuilt head. (new valves if wanted or at least straight ones) valve guides and stem seals

engine.

main and rod bearings. (clivite 77 are my choice)
oil pan gasket
front main seal gasket
rear main seal gasket
Hydraulic tensioner (not needed but highly recommended)
tensioner pulley
possibly one other pulley (I'm tired)
OEM timing belt (nothing different) OEM OEM OEM
oil pump and gear
castle plug for new oil pump
Balance shaft elimination kit
Mitsubishi multi-layer head gasket
arp head studs (only 5 dollars more expensive then stock replacements)
Pistons (i would go wiesco if you say you want to race it there only like 400)
rods eagle rods are my choice. (you can stay with stock 1g rods there extremely strong)
Rings- with wiesco and a lot of other pistons they come with. so check on that
exhaust manifold gasket
intake manifold gasket
new alternator and powersteering belt (a/c belt if you are not removing the a/c)
gasket between manifold and turbo.
o2 housing to turbo gasket
throttle body gaskets. both of them.

that is what i would replace and am replacing soon on my car.
I may have missed some stuff so hopefully others will catch me if i did.

you can i.m. me if you want and i can tell you where to get the best deals Ive found on this stuff.
 
on those gaskets is there a kit that has all of them? also is there any kits for the rods and pistons? I know some places have specials if you buy multiple items.
 
well it would probably be worth while to buy a complete engine gasket kit. then you get everything. so you can replace injector seals and the turbo coolant washers and stuff. But still buy the Mitsubishi multilayer metal headgasket disregard the crappy composite head gasket that most kits come with.

On ebay sometimes you can get rods and pistons from places like jackson auto machine for a good price. sometimes they will include pistons, rings, rods, and bearings. so check around. just remember when you buy from ebay make sure your not buying from a private party. Buy from a business.
 
I plan on rebuilding this myself. Any good reference material you guys can recommend for someone that has never rebuilt an engine. The car is coming with the chiltons manual but I know there is more to it than that. Also, what assortment of tools do I need to do the rebuild? I live in an area where all the fast cars are muscle cars and my b/f WRX, so I really cant go to a shop to get good input on what is needed. Roughly how much am I looking at to rebuild with forged internals? Just a ball park will do, I have roughly 4k to spend on tires, exhaust and engine rebuild.

thanks,
 
well you could for sure rebuild it with 4k. do you have help to rebuild it? Like someone who knows what there doing. A dsm is a different beast. you looking at some serious labor. and no rookies really ever do the timing right. I would say if not then you should find a place to do it. there has to be some import kinda place around there.

I don't know how wild you are looking to go. but you can buy new oem pistons. they will handle 400hp thats serious power that most people never see.

I have a extra head that is rebuilt. I keep it around just in case. But my uncle is a machinist so if your interested in buying it i can give you a price. i.m. me.
 
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