2G Burning oil with leakdown test results

[lee98talon]

I have a 98 talon tsi awd fresh long block rebuild (under 4000 miles) 6 bolt motor. My car has been smoking blue smoke from the tail pipe while on the high way and after the high way, WOT pulls, and long drive through town. Gray/whiteish smoke on cold start up.

-I used Matco two gauge cylinder leak down tester. Took the valve cover off. Made sure all the valves were close on the cylinder I was testing by making sure the base circle of the camshaft was pointing down at the rocker arm and the lobe life(nose) of the camshaft was pointing up towards the hood. I used 50psi of air on this test results.

Cylinder #1 - Leaking air from the dip stick with 35psi of leakage
Cylinder #2 - Leaking air from the dip stick and from cylinder #2 with 35psi of leakage
Cylinder #3 - Leaking air from the dip stick and from cylinder #4 with 35psi of leakage
Cylinder #4 - Leaking air from the dip stick and from cylinder #2 with 25psi of leakage


-I need some fed back on my leak down test results. I'm not sure why the cylinder are not holding the pressure and where the air is leaking to. I can hear a lot of air leaking right under the spark plug nozzle of the leak down tester, like right inside the combustion chamber.

-No air bubbles in coolant. NO change in air hissing when covering the pcv valve hole on the intake manifold and covering EGT hole on the exhaust manifold. The air leakage of from the oil dip stick and from the adjacent cylinders are minor compare to the leak right under the spark plug nozzle of the leak down tester/the combustion chamber.

 

[taylork057]

you should turn it up to 100 psi, and record the reading, giving you an exact %.

but if you have 50 and its only holding 15, you have major issues.

 

[lee98talon]

I did try to use 100psi, but I assume it's still going to read about 20-25psi of leakage because my second gauge reads the pressure inside the cylinder. So, I set my first gauge to 50psi. The second gauge will show 25psi, which in terms it will be 25% leakage. Then if use 100psi I'm assuming the 2nd gauge will read ~75psi which will a 25psi lose. But, I'll give 100psi a shoot.

I'm more concern of where the air is leaking to. I don't feel or hear air from the intake manifold vacuum lines, egt hole on exhaust manifold, tailpipe, or TB. What could I be doing wrong or where to check before assuming that my pistons rings are bad.

 

[rrussell]

I would turn it up to 100psi and recheck it. I do all my leak-down at 100psi only.
When you say you hear leakage at the nozzle are you saying at the spark plug thread area?
Is the o ring still good on the tester? Are you hearing air leakage from the spark plugs next to the cylinder your testing?
How does the car run does it have good power and run smooth?
Also when doing the test I would rock back an forth (crank bolt) while watching the gauge to make sure your not getting any valve overlap leakage. Just a few crank degrees can change your reading. Also use a breaker bar not a ratchet because at 100psi you will know when your at true tdc with no cam over lap. The bar will want to turn on you so beware.

 

[wrencher]

The one gauge reads supply pressure to the gauge.
The other is leak down in percentage. < which btw has to be zero'd out with supply air attached & no compression adapter wip on the quick connect.

So telling us leak in PSI really has no meaning....
READ;

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/compression-and-leak-down-testing.338152/

 

[lee98talon]

I would turn it up to 100psi and recheck it. I do all my leak-down at 100psi only.
When you say you hear leakage at the nozzle are you saying at the spark plug thread area?
Is the o ring still good on the tester? Are you hearing air leakage from the spark plugs next to the cylinder your testing?
How does the car run does it have good power and run smooth?
Also when doing the test I would rock back an forth (crank bolt) while watching the gauge to make sure your not getting any valve overlap leakage. Just a few crank degrees can change your reading. Also use a breaker bar not a ratchet because at 100psi you will know when your at true tdc with no cam over lap. The bar will want to turn on you so beware.

The tester is brand new and the o-ring is good. I don't hear as much air coming back out form the leak down tester nozzle. I do feel a little air from the other cylinders from the cylinder I'm testing(recheck the results from my first post and it will show you which ones). The car is tuned at 270whp at 18psi and the tuner couldn't go any higher because it will start to knock over 20psi of boost. The tuner mention that oil might be getting into the combustion champers and causing it to knock. It drives smooth around town, just smokes a lot.

I redid the test and I'm hearing most of the air from the oil passages/drain in the cylinder head. I think they are oil passages/drain. I circled them in red.

*Forgot to mention these leakdown test results is on a cold engine.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[asexton6969]

OK just to verify, when you performed your leak down you were putting 50 PSI in and were you seeing 15 or 35 PSI on the right gauge. I ask because I have dealt a ton with people who accidentally say the wrong thing about their leak down. Hearing air coming from your dipstick and those oil passages would indicate air is leaking past the piston rings and getting in to the crankcase. In essence, the rings have not sealed against the cylinder wall. I would warm the motor up and run another test to notate any differences.

As stated earlier, you really should try to use 100 PSI. Using a higher amount of air makes the test more accurate as well. Report back and let us know.

 

[lee98talon]

OK just to verify, when you performed your leak down you were putting 50 PSI in and were you seeing 15 or 35 PSI on the right gauge. I ask because I have dealt a ton with people who accidentally say the wrong thing about their leak down. Hearing air coming from your dipstick and those oil passages would indicate air is leaking past the piston rings and getting in to the crankcase. In essence, the rings have not sealed against the cylinder wall. I would warm the motor up and run another test to notate any differences.

As stated earlier, you really should try to use 100 PSI. Using a higher amount of air makes the test more accurate as well. Report back and let us know.

Okay, I was going to do that today, but my battery was shoot and had to fix my beater this past weekend. Won't to Talon for a couple more days or this coming up weekend. Will post back when I retest it.

 

[lee98talon]

After driving for about 1000miles or so I found oil in my intake manifold and intake side of the head. I believe that is where I'm burning oil from. Probably bad pcv or excessive blow by.

 

[lee98talon]

More pic

 

[silverex]

I would think there'd be MORE oil in that intake if you were leaking that much past the piston rings. Like another member said double check that your doing/reading everything right and do it to a 100PSI this time