broken convertible top [Merged 5-7] Spyder convert vert

[douknowme12321]

kool do u know what size drill bit u used to drill the pin out? and what u used to drill the hole bigger and what size u used to fit in there? sry a lot of questions but im going to have to buy all these things and dont wanna keep purchasing the wrong size

 

[BrockLee GS-T]

i cant remember off the top of my head, but i know i bought a drill bit set from ace from their bargain ben and the whole set cost me like five bucks, and as for the size, its been a while, just get a drill bit thats slightly smaller than the size of the pin, i just guessed by looking, so thats just a guess and check process, and once you get the pin out, drilling the motor shaft hole out works great for using a stronger pin, but DONT go wild on this, just punch it out a little like a millameter or two, you dont want to weaken the motor shaft and make that brake, caus then your out a motor, hope this helps

 

[Defiant]

The purpose of the shear pin is to break, to save the motor. I don't know that I'd want to go to a "stronger" pin.

 

[BrockLee GS-T]

yeah, but the issue with using the close hanger method is that the metal is too soft and lasts for about a week or two, maybe a month if you don't use it much, so its obvious that the pins that came with the motor were much stronger than the close hanger pins we try to substitute, so the drill bit pin is a decent substitute that many of us have laying around in the garage, and when i say drill it out, i said like a millimeter, which isn't much, if the motor burns up while trying to pull the top up or down because the load is too much, its probably time to get a new motor anyways, but i do see your point, this worked for me, there are other ways

 

[wret]

Now that I think about it, I'm not sure they are "shear pins," just pins that shear. That is, they are the weakest link in the motor gear reduction assembly. From what I hear, many owners were sold new, very expensive motors by the dealerships and many good motors with broken pins likely ended up in scrap heaps.

A better failsafe would be a properly sized fuse that burns out when the motors encounter excessive resistance. This may work with a new system, but the up/down, up/down stress takes it's toll in the pins.

 

[Defiant]

A better failsafe would be a properly sized fuse that burns out when the motors encounter excessive resistance. This may work with a new system, but the up/down, up/down stress takes it's toll in the pins.

I fear you'd be up against what Kettering realized in order to put electric starters on engines. The starting load is much higher than the running load, and finding the specific failsafe value might be very iffy, and likely different from car-to-car. Maybe a slow-blow fuse?
Besides, what's the dealer markup on a top motor? They'd hate to see that pocketful get away.

 

[SPORK36]

sorry for bringing this back from the dead, but I have this exact same problem.. still. Where is this relay located wret? (I hope you're still active here)

 

[wret]

In the top control module. It's behind the rear seat back. In the middle, down low.

 

[SPORK36]

Does the old relay after to be desoldered, then a new one resoldred in? How hard would that be to do. I definately do not want to mess that up.

 

[wret]

I've never had to operate on my control module. The module has a signal voltage going in (one for up, one for down), a power wire, a ground wire, and output voltage to the top motors. There's probably some window control circuitry in there too. I would identify and test the signal wires and bypass the control module with an external relay. But then I'm the lazy sort. If you have the skill and knowledge to open the module and replace the internal relay, go for it.

 

[jdm_luv]

After I changed my tail-lights out with some new carbon fiber altezzas, my top wouldn't go back at all. The windows would drop and there would be a clicking noise in the back. I thought the motor may have burnt out, but after reading these forums... I searched for this so-called 'Manual/Auto Switch' in my car. Apparently, when I popped the cover back onto the left tail-light panel, the switch turned to Manual. So, for anyone who's top is not dropping, here's some pics so you know exactly where its at.

<img src="http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b321/abercromboi82/DSC00426.jpg">
<img src="http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b321/abercromboi82/switch2.jpg">

 

[kspharris]

Ok one of my motors had the shear pin broken in it and last night I fixed it. It now opens and closes perfectly except when it gets almost ALL the way down except for a few inches and then it pops down into place. Any ideas on what is happening or better what is causing this so that I can fix it? Thank you, Keith.

 

[mattspyder]

check the frame work on the top. make sure nothing is bent or out of place.
post back

 

[kspharris]

It was kinda dark last night but everything appeared to be fine.

 

[mattspyder]

what do you mean by it pops down into place. I know on mine when i get a couple of inches from the top it kinda just falls down.

 

[Defiant]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236047

 

[wret]

It was kinda dark last night but everything appeared to be fine.

More than likely one of your links is bent. They can bend so neatly they appear normal but they should be almost straight. Leaving them bent can cause extensive damage to the roof system.

 

[ghostwritr]

Thanks to all of you that offered suggestions and advice concerning the switch, motors, relays and pins, I now have a top that goes up and down again (I would never have found the manual switch...) and am armed with the knowledge to fix future problems.

 

[dan ritchie]

I may have missed it, but for the motor pin fixes, be sure to clean the broken pins out of the gear housings...those could cause some serious problems.

Also, 3/32" X 1/2" tension pins from Home Depot are a perfect fit...I think they cost $.30 for a pair. I'll post again if I have any problems with them but I doubt it.