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BOV not working. Help??

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97EclipseTurbo

15+ Year Contributor
83
0
Apr 17, 2008
Prince Frederick, Maryland
OK, so I recently found out that my BOV ( Greddy type S) was not working properly, i thought the fluttering sound was the BOV but i found out it was my turbo after some youtube videos and reading on here some. Well i read that the Type S is rated for 350hp + SO i tried changing the springs and turning the screw to soft but still getting the flutter and the BOV isnt even blowing off ( i put my hand near the open port and no air comes out) So then some people suggested that it might be my waste gate so i tried messing with the spring and the screw in that and still the same thing, also I can't seem top get past 7 psi for boost, when i first got the car i was running it at 15 daily and drove it at 20 sometimes. i know running at a higher boost will mess some cars up but i have the high cc injectors and a arp head gasket and arp head studs along with alot of other modfications. I did a boost leak test and i wasnt leaking anywhere and i decided to change out almost every gasket in the car this past weekekend and im still getting the fluttering and still not getting past 7psi for boost, so i was wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a new waste gate ( probally Tial) and get a new BOV ( Greddy tpe RS ) or is my problem fixable. Thanks to all who actually read thta, and dont flame me im new to DSMs and turbos.
 
Blow off valve is shot, turbo is damaged if you are spinning 20 pis on a t-25 with no bov.

Check the shaft play on the turbo in and out side to side.

Chances are you will need a new turbo or rebuild if you can and a bov.
 
What are you using to tune and/or log? How big are your "high cc injectors"?

Please remember proper punctuation when you post. It helps break up your long sentences and makes your posts easier to read.
 
What are you using to tune and/or log? How big are your "high cc injectors"?

Please remember proper punctuation when you post. It helps break up your long sentences and makes your posts easier to read.

They are RC 550, or RC 500 something cant really read them too good, and i wasnt really using anything to tune or log it i was just messing with hte screws and springs in my gargae using different settins, when i get my BOV ans wastegate in im going to get it tuned professionally
 
What are you going to use to TUNE the car with, though? AFC? DSMlink? AEM? Do you have a Wideband O2?

Also, as bullit mentioned, check your turbo for shaft play.
 
It's very simple:

1. Remove the intake hose/pipe from the turbo.

2. Insert your fingers into the compressor housing until you can grab hold of the center nut of the compressor wheel.

3. Wiggle the compressor wheel up and down, left and right, and in and out. Any noticeable movement in or out means that the turbo seals have been compromised and turbo failure is soon to follow. A small amount of side to side and up and down shaft play is allowable on a journal bearing turbo (less-so on a ball bearing turbo), however, if the compressor wheel scrapes the sides of the compressor housing or inlet, the bearings are worn to the point of imminent catastrophic failure. See below:

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When you took apart your BOV, did you notice any tears in the diaphragm? Is it a real or knock-off Greddy BOV?
 
Aftermarket BOVs are pointless. 1G is the best way to go. Dodge Garage mod if you're boosting 20+.
 
its not stock


ok so i did that and it moves but very very very little

I only stated that because you don't have an aftermarket turbo in your mod list. Sounds like your turbo just has a little play, nothing major. Does the shaft spin freely?

And I vent my tial without a gm maf or speed density setup. It's been that way for awhile and I don't have any problems. :thumb: Only thing is that you have to give it a lil gas before shifting to neutral.
 
I only stated that because you don't have an aftermarket turbo in your mod list. Sounds like your turbo just has a little play, nothing major. Does the shaft spin freely?

And I vent my tial without a gm maf or speed density setup. It's been that way for awhile and I don't have any problems. :thumb: Only thing is that you have to give it a lil gas before shifting to neutral.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but WHY would you even do that?

Venting with the stock MAF setup is just downright retarded and asking for problems.
 
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