Boost Setup Question

[Volition]

Hey all,

I finally had some time to get out and get to know my new dsm and I am trying to break the code on what the original owner did to it. It has the PRofec Bspec Electronic Boost Controller from Greddy and a Turbo Meter from Greddy as well as a Greddy BOV. When I did drive the car (only about 4 miles before it went haywire) the gauge was bouncing between the min and max and the engine was really hesitant and sputtering.

I read up on the boost controller and gauge from Greddy's website and it seems like it would be safe to just set the high and low boost settings to low and leave them there until I figure out if I want to keep the set up or swap it for something better. So would anyone recommend setting it to low and it being safe there?

As for the BOV, I think it is a Type S but I don't know if it is genuine. I know that the 2G's OEM BOV wasn't much to get excited about so I am wondering if the one that is installed is worth keeping and if it is even compatible with the engine setup because I know atmospheric venting is not good for the stock setup. I would like to get a TiAL eventually but for now since the car isn't running so good where should I put the setting on the BOV?

Lastly, the clutch pedal just falls to the floor. The guy I bought it from said it just needed a new clutch, but I posted a few months ago on this and was told it was probably hydraulic. I checked the hydro levels and it is full...so any thoughts/suggestions on this?

I will continue to look through the forums, but I hope I can get some feedback on some of my questions.

Thank you

 

[DogWhistle]

Let's address your clutch issue. By hydraulic problem, it means that the fluid, if filled, is not being pushed from the master clutch cylinder, through the clutch line, to the slave clutch cylinder.

Since the fluid is full, you probably don't have a clutch line leak, or leaking fittings, but you need to check to make sure that is the case.

Clutch cylinders use rubber seals, the same way brake systems do. Those seals can wear out or split, causing the cylinders to not push any fluid.

You could test them by loosening the bleed screw on the slave clutch cylinder, and having a buddy press the clutch pedal to see if you've got hydraulic pressure. Remember to close the bleed screw.

My guess is that the master clutch cylinder, on the firewall, is bad. You can decide if, for a few dollars more, you want to replace the slave cylinder as well. Bleed the new setup thoroughly!!

Also, the clutch pedal is supposed to have a return spring on it to return the pedal to the up position when released. Check to make sure that spring is not broken.

While you're at it, I would verify that the car does indeed have a clutch and pressure plate installed.

 

[Volition]

DogWhistle,

I appreciate the info on the clutch. since the car seems as though it was not taken care of I have elected to just get a new Master/Slave, SS Clutch Line, Clutch Kit, and a Lightweight Flywheel. I had the car inspected at an auto shop and they confirmed that it needed a new clutch and most of the parts associated with the clutch. I will be using all OEM except the Flywheel and Clutch/Pressure Plate. I checked the return spring and it seems to be in good order. I also disconnected what I hope was the clutch switch for the ignition. I am comfortable using a lightweight flywheel because I picked up a Fluidampr HB, any feedback on that? I read up on them an they seem to be pretty legit. Thanks, and I have read up on the BOV and think I have that part figured out, just not the settings on the Boost Controller yet...Thanks

 

[PrimerPLus]

Is the car tuned?
Did it come with anything to tune it?
If there are no supporting mods for the motor and the boost is turned up then you should turn it all the way down, so that it will be on stock boost levels.

If your profile is correct, it does not seem to have supporting mods to be turning up the boost so go ahead and turn it all the way down.

Post up some pictures.

What turbo do you have?
Your hesitation could also be caused by boost leaks.
Get a boost leak tester and make sure you have no leaks.

 

[Volition]

PrimerPLus,

I am unsure if the car is tuned, the seller did not mention if he had it tuned or not and did not come with anything to tune it with. I appreciate the confirmation on turning the boost down, I was a bit concerned about it and I will do a leak check as soon as I can (I am not currently driving the car as it needs several other maint items before I am comfortable driving it). I should have the stock T-25 as it is very small and the seller didn't mention an aftermarket turbo either. I plan on getting DSMLink and have an MTX-L Wideband with Innovate's software package to install when the time comes. Also, I have to replace the valve cover gasket, so I am sure that leaking isn't helping anything.

Thanks and I will post up some pics shortly

Pics

One more pic

Another Pic

 

[PrimerPLus]

Looks like you're on the right track.
Ecmlink is highly recommended.
Let us know how things turn out.

 

[Volition]

Definitely will do, I have tons of things to fix/replace on it. I don't think the original owner knew much at all about how to take care of cars in general. So far I have a whole timing belt set up replacement, alternator, BSE kit to install, all the things I listed above and all other maintenance things. I decided to pull the engine as soon as I get the time to and do all the work. Thanks!

Also, I have not installed any of the mods currently on the car, so I am trying to determine if I want to keep some of them or get rid of them..like the FMIC is pretty trashed so that is one that has to go...