The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Boost problems

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

sorry I didn't read your post right the first time. I'll fix my post so no ones confused. With no vac line the wastgate will stay closed and you will build to much boost. Be really carful if you car can't handle the boost you can really mess things up. Best thing you can do is run a vac line from the acuator to a boost source close to the compressor cover. This will get you wastgate pressure. So whatever the spring is 7psi 8psi that's what your boost will be.
 
Last edited:
You won't build much boost, only what the spring pressure is of the actuator.

False. This would be the case if you had a vacuum line ran to the wastegate actuator with no boost controller hooked up. You will run wastegate spring pressure only.

If there is no vacuum line hooked to the wastegate actuator it will not open, you will overboost, and can blow your motor.
 
That's what I thought man because every time I step on it my car would start building boost and around 5k it wil do something like hiccup
 
That's what I thought man because every time I step on it my car would start building boost and around 5k it wil do something like hiccup

Do you have a working boost gauge hooked up?

Hook a boost line to the wastegate actuator before you have to replace your motor.
 
You are going to want a boost-only source for the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator.

Like lasershark stated, check the j-pipe for a vac line nipple. Otherwise, on the turbo itself might have one you can use. Do not boost until you remedy this situation. Post pictures of your engine bay if you need some help identifying what to use.
 
What I did on a non- nippled j pipe was grab a air compressor barb (nipple) from home-depot and tapped the j-pipe for the fitting and screwed it in, then jb-welded it. Have never had a problem with that one.
 
What I did on a none nippled j pipe was grab a air compressor barb (nipple) from home-depot and tapped the j-pipe for the fitting and screwed it in, then jb-welded it. Have never had a problem with that one.

This is a good solution if you cannot find one on the car already. I've done this in the past with no issues. Make sure it's off the car though to avoid getting any metal shavings in the piping. What I did was drill a hole in the pipe gradually moving up sizes to reach a size where I could just screw the fitting in with a wrench/socket (the pipe metal is thin, can't really 'tap'). Then applied some jb-weld around the base to avoid leaks/it coming loose.
 
My j pipe is aluminum and most of the places around my house don't the lightest clew on how to weld aluminum. But I'm just going to the homedepo idea. Hopefully that fix my problem
 
That's the problem I had with aluminium, just take your time gradually stepping the j-pipe hole bigger and bigger. I made the hole barely smaller than the fitting and used the fitting to "tap" the j-pipe. Just make sure you put the nipple in a good spot, I would look at your jpipe first and then mark where you want to put it, a spot that's nice and accessible.
 
Last edited:
Check your turbo too, my vacuum line comes right off of the turbo itself, then it tees in with the line from the boost control solenoid. Depending on your actuator spring pressure using the boost control solenoid or another source of boost control is a good thing. For example if you had an 8 psi spring. Also if your actuator wasn't made for that specific turbo, the spring pressure might not match the pressure that your wastegate will open at. Only way to tell for sure is to run pressure to the actuator (bike pump will do) and observe the pressure that first starts moving the actuator arm, and the pressure that fully extends the actuator arm. If your pump doesn't have a gauge you'll have to tee one in.
 
Last edited:
Ok I will do that too just to check my pressure. And my turbo doesn't have a fitting also so tomorrow I will fix and post some pictures so you guys can see it an tell me if i did t right
 
You could pull your boost reference for your wastegate actuator from the intake manifold. Now I could be wrong, but it seems to me that with pressure drop across an intercooler and through pipes that, pulling the reference from the intake manifold your wastegate wouldn't openeed until your manifold actually sees the boost your set for. Again I could be wrong and I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am LOL
 
You could pull your boost reference for your wastegate actuator from the intake manifold. Now I could be wrong, but it seems to me that with pressure drop across an intercooler and through pipes that, pulling the reference from the intake manifold your wastegate wouldn't openeed until your manifold actually sees the boost your set for. Again I could be wrong and I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am LOL
You typically want your boost source to come from a source that is as close to the compressor ie turbo as possible. The general consensus is to keep it close and to keep it short.
 
I think I found the perfect one is lets see what happens haha. By the thanks to all you for helping me out haha
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top