Boost problem only in 2nd gear!?!

[crazycooter]

I own a 91 eclipse gst and am using the crappy stock boost gauge which seems to work fine. The boost is normal in 1st gear (about 11 ) but throughout second the gauge maxes out (possibly over 14) all other gears blow off at stock! Is this a problem with the stock gauge or something else?

could this be due to my piece of shit venom 400? and yes i was the first one to reply to my question. possibly even answered it ### the venom 400 is a piece of shit

 

[delta448]

Stock boost gauge = completely worthless. Buy a real boost gauge with actual numbers on it.

If you don't like the Venom unit, remove it and sell it to fund the purchase of the boost gauge.

 

[PandaTalon]

If you don't like the Venom unit, remove it and sell it to fund the purchase of the boost gauge.

i seen in you previous thread that you dont have a wideband? what are you tuning with? you cant just throw mods at the car w/o supporting mods

P.S. autozone sells a Sunpro boost gauge for only $25

 

[crazycooter]

I'm tuning with nothing and have done no mods except the jank ass venom 400 and lightweight flywheel. It was tuned very nicely when i purchased it a couple years ago. The previous owner had the motor swapped from a gsx that was previously wrecked when the owner hit the nos and wrecked into a house. I heard about the car and wanted to drive it. I recently owned a 1.8L laser and always wanted the turbo 2.0. When i first test drove it the owner told me to let him drive ### i wasn't hammering on it. The owner spun the car around in first from a dead stop and ran the car at redline for about a minute ### the tranny wasn't into the shiftin. I thought he was a nut at first but enjoyed the rush. I had to buy this car so i did. I bought it for 1400 with no battery!!! After purchasing a red top optima battery from our local performance shop for only 100 with no core (same price as crappy battery since i had no core.) I continued to drive the dog piss out of this car even after reverse seemed to be out. I checked the car out and the driveaxles were torn to shit, half the tranny bolts were missing and the others loose (the tranny literally had more than an inch of play between the motor. To top things off the flywheel inspection cover was missing and the ass hole who did the engine swap failed to use any of the gaskets on the oil lines to the turbo. This was causing the oil to be flung all over the bottom of the car including directly at the flywheel (suprisingly the clutch did not slip)!! When i tore the car apart the flywheel had multiple cracks, lots off evidence of overheating, and was warped (imagine that). I replaced all the bad parts including the control arms, clutch, flywheel, tie rods, and stabilizer bar links, turbo gaskets and lines, axle shafts, flywheel inspection cover and even the bolts. Even got the tranny rebuilt. After the break in period i continued to drive the dog piss out of it and it was no longer doing crazy double tire fires and won't go as fast in any of the gears. I continue to drive the dog piss out of this car!! I did a compression check before i did all the work and it blew 155 over all 4!! Will do one again and i know i need something to tune with ( looking into greddy e-manage ultimate). I just bought cheap ass $324 dollar 20g chinabay turbo with install kit and need a tune for janky turbos.

 

[U2_slow]

Yeah, just get a real boost gauge and you should know exactly where you're at(boost wise). You also just bought a chinese 20G with no other mods to your car, well I hope you don't attempt to install it without supporting mods first.

Oh and btw, you're going to need more than just a greddy e-manage if you continue to drive the "dog piss" out of your car.

 

[crazycooter]

The tranny seems to shift like shit even after the rebuild!!! B & M charged my ass $700 dollars to replace the crappy worn out ceramic synchronizers and took them an extra week because he accidental got the brass synchronizers and it took him forever to get the crappy ceramic ones. I added friction modifier through the speedometer gear open (took me a bout an hour to get the gear out ended up having to work it out with vice grips). Seemed to help a little but i still get block out in first and gears occasionally grind. The tranny shifts best after not driving the car for a week and after i drive the dog piss out of it. Everything envolved in shifting has been replaced except the shifter cables. However, the Throw Out bearing makes noise sometimes in neutral but goes away when i barely press in on the clutch. Is it possible i have too much freeplay in the pedal or should i replace the bearing again? The clutch has lots of clamp force i used a F1 racing Carbon clutch with a 2200 lb. pressure plate that is rated for twice my actual horses and it is mated with a fidanza lightweight flywheel. Could my problem be the clutch/pressure plate is junk or the bearing?

 

[PandaTalon]

how long do you plan on keeping the car?

 

[Richrx_tsi]

I dont get it I blow my motor with all the right mods, good tune, ect. AND DONT ROD THE "dog piss" out of it. Life is ####ed up sometimes

 

[crazycooter]

I plan to keep the car until it is wrecked and unrepairable!!!! Repairs don't cost much ### i buy jank ass parts off ebay like the Chinese 20g turbo and do all the labor myself.

 

[PandaTalon]

I dont get it I blow my motor with all the right mods, good tune, ect. AND DONT ROD THE "dog piss" out of it. Life is ####ed up sometimes

sometimes bad happens to good people its life and is messed up trust me ive been there

I plan to keep the car until it is wrecked and unrepairable!!!! Repairs don't cost much ### i buy jank ass parts off ebay like the Chinese 20g turbo and do all the labor myself.

umm hmm i have no comment i guess just bleed your clutch and you get what you pay for with that ebay clutch