2G Boost leak test = 0

[Robert Schele]

Maybe a stupid question but I’m stuck. Auto trans went out on a full throttle kick in the &$$. Thought it was downshifting but went to neutral instead. Revs went a little high and car died immediately. Got home and reader said crank sensor bad. Replaced sensor and started car. Had to really kick up fuel tab to get near 14.7 after warm up. Compression all between 125 and 135. Leak down perfect. Doing boost leak test I get absolutely 0 on the gage. Found small leak on J pipe and fixed that. Pancake compressor with decent output. Where could I be losing that much air so quickly?

 

[steve]

Might want to start with a leakdown test to make sure all the cylinders are good then try a BT at the TB elbow and work toward the turbo inlet step by step.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Similar thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago.. mine was because the full throttle pull that i did caused the intercooler pipe that connects on the passenger side of the intercooler to blow out of the coupler and caused the car to shut down immediately.

Everytime i put air to the boost leak tester, it would just immediately run out causing the zero on the gauge. I couldnt see it because the separation was behind the bumper and had to jack up the car to spot it from underneath. Looking through one of the holes in the bumper made it look like the pipe was still connected to the coupler, but looking underneath was easy to see the separation. Trace your piping and make sure all your clamps are secure.

 

[chrysler kid]

Run a long extension cord and a long air hose, and put your compressor far away, close the garage door, behind a wall etc. So you can hear the leak