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Boost gauge problem

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lordnikon_04

15+ Year Contributor
230
0
Jul 15, 2004
Goodyear, Arizona
Ok, I just baught and installed an Autometer Meter Boost Gauge in my TSI AWD. Now i followed the VFAQ to install the boost gauge. i did everything right as i can tell. I tapped the line going to the fps that went to the middle of the intake manifold(just cut the stock line and used the supplied t-fitting), ran the supplied tubing through my steering boot, up and behind the dash, through where the dash speaker sits, and then up through my A-Pillar. Now when i start the car, rev it, and even drive, it doesn't read at all(well sometimes the needle will move but u can barely tell). is there something i messed up with the tubing? can that tubing be pinched enough to cause this? or do i maybe have a f'd up gauge? also, how tight should the adapter on the back of the gauge and the compression on the back of the gauge be? the instructions say don't overtighten them but do i just hand-tighten or wrench it to a certain torque?
 
Pull the gauge back out of your pod and check to make sure that the nylon tube is still in the fitting. Also look under the dash to make sure that the nylon tubing didnt get pinched, that stuff will pinch shut just like a garden hose will.
 
Red97Eclipseboy said:
Re-run your boost line inbetween your FPR and intake manifold. That's the proper way.
The FPR doesn't go directly to the IM, the FPS goes in between and he did the right thing by tapping the section before FPS.

lordnikon_04, Move the gauge to the engine bay right off the Tee, if the gauge reads normal, replace the nylon line that came with the gauge with a silicone hose. If the problem persists, you most likely have a defective gauge.

Now when i start the car, rev it, and even drive, it doesn't read at all(well sometimes the needle will move but u can barely tell)
Where does it sit at idle?
 
I'm wondering if the small ferrule that seals the line in the back of the gauge hasn't become crushed or gone missing. Have a look at that since most gauges come with more than one ferrule in case you drop one.

Let us know what you find,

Andy
 
ok, well when i'm at idle the gauge sits at 0. it's a 30/30 vaccum/boost. my stock gauge works like always but the autometer doesn't move. i realized last night though that after driving for about 5-10 minutes(regardless if car is hot or not), it will start reading but it doesn't even go to 5psi boost at FULL THROTTLE! and when i barely touch the gas, it moves to about 5-10 of vaccum but off the throttle it just says 0. unless i dunno what i'm talking about, you should have more vaccum when decelerating than when just cruising w/ the throttle, and i think it should read more than 5 psi at stock boost. and i didn't lose the ferrule, i have the tubing going from one end of the ferrule all the way to the other end of it. my connection goes compression nut, ferrule, adapter. one thing i was thinking, does it matter how far up the rubber adapter for the t-fitting the tubing goes? i have it going through the rubber but then about halfway through the plastic t-fitting. would this affect my readings?


sorry about the long posts
 
lordnikon_04 said:
Now when i start the car, rev it,
Don't even try to build boost without a load on the engine.
and even drive, it doesn't read at all(well sometimes the needle will move but you can barely tell). is there something i messed up with the tubing? can that tubing be pinched enough to cause this?
Yup, sounds like it.
or do i maybe have a f'd up gauge?
That's also possible. Test it with a Mity-Vac, and if you don't already have one, get one.
also, how tight should the adapter on the back of the gauge and the compression on the back of the gauge be? the instructions say don't overtighten them but do i just hand-tighten or wrench it to a certain torque?
No torque. Snug, and another quarter-turn. You may have distorted the tubing enough that it's sealed itself off.
 
I always recommend using standard rubber vacuum hose and buying a brass barbed adapter for boost gauges. The nylon tubing that comes with most boost gauges seems to crack, kink, and curl too much to be very easy to use.
 
My guess is the problem lies in the compression fitting. Maybe you overtightened it & crushed the ferrule around the tube? Or you just plain forgot to put it on in the first place..I'm using the nylon tube that came with my Autometer gauge & haven't had any problems.

If everything appears hooked up right though, the gauge is probably bad. Hook it up to a Mity-Vac or get your hands on one you know works & swap them. I received an Autometer Boost gauge brand new but the needle rested at -30, so I had it replaced with a new one. Now my new Megan Racing gauge sits at about -2 when off, but oh well...so boost gauges can definetely be defective even though they're brand new.
 
You may just have a leak in the system somewhere, the nylon tubing that comes with it is useless. Get some 4 mm silicone vacuum line, get a 1/8" female NPT to barberd fitting (for the gauge end) and a small barbed T fitting for the source end. Make sure you use pipe dope on the gauge end when screwing the barbed fitting on.

The gauge should read ~ 20" vac at idle, so you either have a leak in the system, a crimp somewhere or a defective gauge. I would do what I said above and go from there.
 
well, i figured it out. i was a moron and saw an all black line and tapped it not seeing if it went to the manifold. i tapped the correct hose and it works great now. but when i retapped the fitting the first hose pulled off and i can't figure out where it's supposed to go under the engine. it's the top hose coming off of the purge control solenoid. i followed the other hose that it was coupled with and i can't find anything for that hose to hook up to at that length. anyone know exactly where that top hose goes?
 
Reach under the Intake manifold stay, the metal bracket under the intake manifold, and you should find four metal lines that runs across to the TB side. Only the two lines closer to the firewall should be in use and the one you want should be the second one from the firewall. Just to make sure, reach down from the TB side to find out which two is in use, then reach down from the driverside and see which is missing.
 
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