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boiling coolent ????

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dpbgst13

15+ Year Contributor
31
1
Jan 11, 2005
duluth, Georgia
ok out of the blue on day my coolent just started to boil. so i thought the coolent was bad so i changed it. then the problem stopped for a few weeks. now its back and the temps are at like 220 but it blows steam out of the reserve tank. dont know what to do. would it have anything to do with the FMIC. bc of less air flow. also i have new slimline fans that i have not installed but maybe that would help. but i dont know what else to do. help please. :confused:
 
dpbgst13 said:
ok out of the blue on day my coolent just started to boil. so i thought the coolent was bad so i changed it. then the problem stopped for a few weeks. now its back and the temps are at like 220 but it blows steam out of the reserve tank. dont know what to do. would it have anything to do with the FMIC. bc of less air flow. also i have new slimline fans that i have not installed but maybe that would help. but i dont know what else to do. help please. :confused:
Mine did the same thing, and it turned out to be the thermostat.
 
The problem is your fans, the car is over heating. Slim line fans do not move enough air to keep your car cool when it has a FMIC. You have to wire both your fans together so they come on at the same time, not just one of them like stock (other comes on with A/C only). Those fans don't move anywhere near the amount of air the stock fans do so you need both of them to keep everything from over heating.

You can thank me tomorrow...
 
i dont have the slimline fans on yet. there just the stock ones. i changed the thermostat but not the raditor cap. should i sell the slimline fans and stay with the stock? even when i put the t04e turbo on? there not wired together yet. well i guess my question is how do i get enough air to go though my raditor with the front mount intercooler?
 
I happened to have written this yesterday for a FAQ site I'm planning on putting up. Hope it helps.

--------------

Overheating/Boiling Coolant

Problem:
Engine coolant (antifreeze) keeps pushing/boiling into your overflow tank when your engine gets hot. This problem may be associated with the engine overheating.

Background:
The coolant system requires coolant flow, air flow against the radiator and pressure in order to operate correctly. The coolant system moves heat from the inside of the engine to the radiator, where it is then transferred to the outside air. As fluids boil at higher temperatures when pressure increases, the stock coolant system needs about 15 PSI in order to keep the coolant from boiling.

Most probable cause:
The most probable cause occurs frequently when you have just gotten through working on your car and you have drained and refilled your coolant. As air compresses easily, a large amount of air inside the engine's coolant system can keep the coolant from achieving the necessary pressure to keep the coolant from boiling. An air bubble next to the thermostat will also cause the thermostat stay closed, even once the engine is warm.

MPC Solution(s):
Perform the following steps to "burp" the coolant system before replacing any parts! It may save you from buying parts that don't fix the problem.

Burping the coolant system:
- Let the engine cool completely (overnight, or for more than 3 hours).
- Remove the radiator cap.
- Fill the radiator up until no more will go in.
- Start the engine.
- Watch the level of the coolant. As the engine warms, the level should drop. Fill as necessary to keep the level topped off.
- Once the engine warms to the point that the radiator wants to start pushing out coolant, cap it off.
- Repeat the above steps if desired or necessary to remove more air from the coolant system.

Most times, performing this step only once will stabilize the coolant system by removing enough air to keep the coolant from boiling.

If the above MPC didn't fix your problem, then check for/diagnose the following and repair/replace if necessary:

- Radiator cap
The radiator cap should have a good seal. Sometimes the rubber o-ring around the cap will deteriorate, causing a leak in cooling system pressure.

- Thermostat
The thermostat blocks coolant flow until the engine reaches a certain temperature. The thermostat should be closed at room temperature and should pop open when dropped in boiling water.

- Incorrect coolant mix
Most coolants will be labeled that they need to be mixed at a 50%/50% by volume ratio to be most effective. If your coolant has been thinned out by too much water to too little coolant, it will boil more easily than a correct mixture.

- Radiator airflow blockage
If you have recently installed a large front mount intercooler or have anything else in front of your radiator, you may have blocked your radiator's airflow. If this occurs, the radiator may not be able to exchange enough heat to the outside air.

- Inoperable radiator fan
If your radiator fans are not functioning, you may notice overheating when idling at a stop. The fans are necessary to direct airflow through the radiator while the vehicle is not moving.

- Coolant system leaks
Leaks in the coolant system should usually be very obvious because they will spew steam and coolant when the engine is warm, dropping coolant system pressure.

- Coolant system clogs
Clogs in the coolant system prevent the coolant from circulating, which will boil the coolant in the engine. The most likely part to be clogged is the radiator because of its small coolant passages.

- Water pump
If the water pump is not operating efficiently or at all, there will not be enough coolant flow to transfer the heat to the radiator.

(C) 2005 Bryan Davis
Handle: psychlow on Yahoo Instant Messenger, DSMTuners.com & DSMTalk.com
 
if it is the fmic what do i need to do to get more air flow through the radiator. but i going to try and "burb" the system. i knew that but i didnt do it.
 
I need to add to that article:
While performing the burping process, make sure you have adequate coolant in the overflow tank to make sure the system isn't sucking up air while you're trying to burp it.
 
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