Blue smoke when cruising to a stop!!!

[tsidrift1]

I have noticed lately that my car has been giving off some blue smoke out the exhaust. Its not all the time though. It only does when I push in the clutch and am coasting to a stop. It doesnt even do it all the time, only before the car has warmed up. Actually it is only the first 2 or 3 times I have to coast to a stop. As soon as I start to leave the smoke disapears. And like I said, after the third time or so of coming to a stop it is good again until the car has sat for about 4-5 hours. am thinking my valve seals are just slightly starting to leak, but I hope it is maybe the pvs valve on the valve cover. I jut dont know anything about that little valve. Is there any way you can check that valve to see if its bad.

Let me know Guys,
Anthony

 

[eagletalon_1800]

I have noticed lately that my car has been giving off some blue smoke out the exhaust. Its not all the time though. It only does when I push in the clutch and am coasting to a stop. It doesnt even do it all the time, only before the car has warmed up. Actually it is only the first 2 or 3 times I have to coast to a stop. As soon as I start to leave the smoke disapears. And like I said, after the third time or so of coming to a stop it is good again until the car has sat for about 4-5 hours. am thinking my valve seals are just slightly starting to leak, but I hope it is maybe the pvs valve on the valve cover. I jut dont know anything about that little valve. Is there any way you can check that valve to see if its bad.

Let me know Guys,
Anthony

pvs do you mean pvc and to check to see if thgat thing works all that you have to do is shake it and if u hear a clickin noise then its alright and by the sounds of it ## valve guides are starting to wear bc this happend to my cousins car and the reason its only does it when its cold is because the engine is cold and has more of a gap so some oil goes threw and then when the engien warms up the metal exspands and has a tight fit around the valve stem

 

[ddavisaf]

pvs do you mean pvc and to check to see if thgat thing works all that you have to do is shake it and if u hear a clickin noise then its alright and by the sounds of it ## valve guides are starting to wear bc this happend to my cousins car and the reason its only does it when its cold is because the engine is cold and has more of a gap so some oil goes threw and then when the engien warms up the metal exspands and has a tight fit around the valve stem

This is possibly the longest sentence I've ever had to struggle through.
Don't use internet jive talk here. Use full words. It makes it easier on all of us to understand what you're saying. Oh yeah, and puntucation is a good thing.

Anyway. Your pCV (It's not a pipe, it's a valve ) allows your crankcase to breath.
When you're under boost it seals shut, when you're under vacuum it opens and allows air to escape.
If it's opening under boost then you'll be dumping oil into your intake pipe.
Shaking it doesn't always tell you if it works or not.
I always blow through both ends. If the end with the threads is open and the straight fitting it closed it's good. Mean you can blow through the threads and not through the straight fitting.

However, were I you I would run a compression test dry then wet.
This will tell you whether or not your seals are going out.
Another way to check would be to pull off the exhaust manifold and check for oil leaving the exhaust runners.
If you suspect your turbo seals then pull off your lower intercooler pipe and see if you're pooling oil in your pipe. If it's just a thin coat it's fine.

 

[tsidrift1]

I did a dry compression test a few weeks ago. I didnt get anything under 150. The four cylinders did vary in readings though. The number 1 and 2 were higher than number 3 and 4. I cant remember the exact readings though. By valve guides, do you mean valve seals?

Keep up the replys,
Anthony

 

[ddavisaf]

121 is the service limit for a compression test with a difference of no more than 14 psi between cylinders.
Run a compression test again. A lot of things can change over the course of a few weeks.
Are you losing oil or coolant?

 

[tsidrift1]

I will try to runa compression test again on it. I hachecked my oil a few days ago and it was still good. I havnt checked my coolant yet, but I will check tomorrow and let you know. am starting to wonder if my headgasket is leaking a little bit, cause I swear i saw white smoke when leaving for work when i came coasting to a stop. I kind of hope it is the headgasket, cause I was going to get that 3 layer bishi gasket and install this winter. With the compression last time varying so much between cylinders, I read that it could be leaking a bit in between cylinders. The only thing about the headgasket leaking is that the car still runs fairly decent except for the studder, loss of power after I hit 3000 rpms. I checked the pvc or pcv whatever it is today and I could only bloe throught the side with the threads, so I am guessing that means it is still good?? One more question, is there anything to keep that thing from smoking? It is getting a little embarassing.

Thanks,
Anthony

 

[ddavisaf]

Well, first thing you should do is run through all the possible causes while you're waiting on the compression test. Pull off the LICP and check for oil pooled up at the bottom and in your intercooler. That would indicate a bad turbo seal.
If the breather hose on the left side of the valve cover is still routed to the stock position you can try install an inline filter or catch can, as that could be part of the problem as well.
It's more trouble than it's worth in my opinion though.
Pull your spark plugs out and check to see if you've got some oil buildup on them. This would indicate "blow by". Blow by is when oil gets past the oil rings on your pistons.

 

[tsidrift1]

I also notied today that it was low on coolant so I filled it up. The compression test results were Cylinder #4- 150psi, Cylinder #3-155psi, Cylinder #2-150psi, Cylinder #1-155psi. That was with the eninge cold. The warm results were Cylinder #1-160psi, Cylinder #2-154psi, Cylinder #3-153psi, Cylinder #4-155psi. So there they are the rsults tell me what you guys think. Also my oil looked ok.

My plugs didnt have any build up on them either, I didnt take off my lower intercooler pipe, its just a pain in the butt to get it back on and have no leaks. But let me know what you think with this info.

 

[ddavisaf]

Compression test is good so I wouldn't suspect a headgasket yet.

Pull off the LICP and check for oil pooled up at the bottom and in your intercooler. That would indicate a bad turbo seal.
Pull your spark plugs out and check to see if you've got some oil buildup on them. This would indicate "blow by". Blow by is when oil gets past the oil rings on your pistons. OR a bad gasket on your valve cover. You'll be able to tell if it's the VC by looking at the seal between the head and the VC. If it's got oil streaks in it it's the VC.
I doubt the problem lies in your piston rings, but it gives us something to check, and to rule out indefinately.
Pull off your exhaust manifold slightly, and look into the runners after the car has sat overnight. Look for oil seeping out of the runners on the head.


What kind of spark plugs are you running? They should be NGK BPR6ES gapped at .028" (this is for that stuttering problem you're experiencing).

 

[tsidrift1]

I am running NGK bpr7es. Gapped at .028

 

[tsidrift1]

I just got back from work tonight and it is about 40-45 drgrees out tonight and the car ran a lot better. The thing still smoked a little bit, but it didnt stutter very much at all if any. So when i is cold I get a better running car. Is there a sensor like the egt orsomething that effects the engine when it is warm and cold. I dont know why it would run so better in the colder weather.

 

[ddavisaf]

40-45*? Ahh summer time
Your CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor senses the temperature of......... ready for this one? The coolant!
It may be on it's way out. Ohm it out and see what you're reading.
There is not a sensor in the car that controls the smoking though. That's a mechnical

 

[tsidrift1]

I just got my datalogger hooked up last night and ran with it. Is that sensor in the mmcd program, if so which one is it. I can log it again and see what it says. I am showing 43 counts of knock at 3250 RPMs at 1/4 throttle! I dont know too much, but I dont think that is good.

 

[tsidrift1]

Today as I was leaving for work, I noticed it started to smoke really bad. I went to turn on the main road to go home, and when i started to drive, I heard this loud screaching sound . I noticed the car was constantly smoking this time. I turned around and pulled back into work. I pulld off the intake pipe and tried to spin the turbo. All I got was the turbine wheel catching on the exhaust housing. The thing wont even make one free rotation, it just scrapes bad. And then I decided to check the shaft play, OH MY GOD!!! that thing move 1/2 in to a full in. in all directions. I think that might be the problem. What do you guys think?