Blue Smoke at Idle and when I step on it

[hellotbone]

This should be failry easy for me since Im not new to this engine/car combo. I would just like to know how to eliminate what it isn't that is causing it.

Yesterday running mint pull out to pass someone @20 psi and pass fine in 3rd let off shift to 4th and I get in it no probs no sound changes nothing, look in the rearview to see the lengths Im pulling and 100 ' back about where I shifted a HUGE cloud of blue smoke. I immiedatly notice its oil. So I continue to the stop sign Im about a block from home and there isn't much to speak of but when I get back into it a bit smoke again. So I take it easy down my street and park and let the TT do its thing and I figure I'll pull the Plugs pull em and they look good. Now tonight I have to do a compression test to rule out the rings. My next question is I know the only other 2 causes are valve seals PCV I will check and the turbo. Now I know if I pull the IC pipes that if I see oil its likely the turbo , and when I had the intake off I could not spin the compressor wheel at all it was very stiff I could turn it but that was it, the wheel would not turn freely so that will be the place I start. My question is how do you check the valve seals and are they changeable in car if that is the problem?

 

[ddavisaf]

Pull the pipe off and see if there is any oil in the pipe before you worry about the valve seals. That's the easiest thing to do. Chances are since your compressor wheel isn't spinning that's your problem. If it's not, then it soon will be. Post back

 

[oldman]

A puff of smoke right after boosting or smoke screen during boosting usually points to the turbo. The fact that it's not spinning freely indicates that there are issues with the turbo so I would start there. Valve seals are a little harder to confirm, usually I would rule everything else out first. If you're taking off either the intake or exhaust manifold you should check to see if there are wet oil in and around the exhaust ports, of course you will have to rule everything else out for this to work. It's possible to change the seals with the head in the car but you will need a special tool call "Miller's tool" and it's a PITA job. Good luck.

 

[hellotbone]

Thanks for the info guys just trying to rule out each at a time.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Oil seals fail gradually (not all at once as was the case in your story) and will give off teltale whifts of smoke at startup (oil gravity fed into combustion chambers, top of valves while sitting).

The fact that your turbo is not spinning is pretty solid evidence that it is the likely source. Likely a blockage in the oil feed/return line that caused the bearing to fail and to push oil past the seal (hence the smoke).

Where are you feeding oil from for your PTE and what diam feed/drain lines?
BTW.. If it's <=1 year old, PTE should replace the turbo. I've heard stories of the rearmost thrust bearing not getting enough oil under high PSI/load conditions which had been remidied in a newer design

 

[hellotbone]

Im feeding from the oil filter housing per RRE's site and using -4 or -3 An for the turbo oil feed line. The return is about 3/4" from the turbo adapted to the stock return line.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/oilline/1goillinelocation.jpg

That is where I am pulling it from.

 

[oldman]

Oil seals fail gradually (not all at once as was the case in your story)

Unless your cheap ebay oil catch can freeze up on you.

 

[hellotbone]

Yeah Im just not a flashy catch can kinda guy I prefer the rubber hose that drips on the road.

 

[oldman]

Yeah Im just not a flashy catch can kinda guy I prefer the rubber hose that drips on the road.

That's fine but make sure you either hollow out the pcv or replace it with a straight fitting if it's not routed back to the intake manifold.

 

[hellotbone]

Oh sorry my PCV goes to the intake still the other one 90* on the end of the valve cover goes to the street

 

[hellotbone]

Problem found;

My PTE 5o trim has taken a dump. There is so much shaft play the compressor wheel hits the housing. The oil seals are shot there is no oil from the top side manifold side but from the exhaust wheel down there is alot of oil leaking from the turbo shaft. So the good news the old 6 bolt just keeps on tickin 140 psi across the board.

The other good news turbo is less then 1 year old so warranty should be fine. Supply line has lots of oil and the return as well no blockages seem to be an issue with it at all just a bad one I guess. Ah well get her fixed on and back to boosting.

Thanks to everyone for their help in the diagnosis.