BLOWN MOTOR!! I think

[DJYoshaBYD]

ok... this D***HEAD sold me his very clean 91 tsi AWD.... it was smoking real bad when load was on the motor.. he said it was the turbo's seals and to replace it... he gave me another turbo... so Im outside looking under the hood and I notice that vapor (smoke) comming out of the dipstick and out of the oil cap on the valve cover.... my padre said it was blow-by caused by bad rings (most likely).....

OK... the real question.... what would be easier and more cost effective:

rebuild the bottom end (new rings, bearings, etc..)

or get another 4g63t and swap it in....

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

ok... ive got the head off.... everything was in good enough condition where i can just rering and I am good...

I just ordered the rering kit, balance shaft removal kit, and the turbo rebuild kit kit

i will keep youse guyses posted

 

[thjones3]

Just out of curiosity, did you do a leakage test, or just tear it down? I was wondering what the results were if you did one.

 

[twicks69]

sorry bro... Im not trying to be an a$$hole.. im just mad...

well.... whaat else could it be.... the car starts.. no problem... drives... no problem.... idels... no problem.... does not stutter on acceleration, just very slow for 195 HP... BBUUUTTTT

MASSIVE AMOUNTS of grayish smoke pours out my exhaust when ever there is load on the engine... the same color smoke comes out of the dipstick and the oil cap hole....

could it just be the head gasket?

From your explanation that your compression is that low, and you are seeing alot of smoke under acceleration, your piston rings are more than likely fried. It is not your head gasket. If you are seeing smoke come out of your dipstick and valve cover, it means that you are having excessive blowby -- in this case piston rings.

Did you check the timing to make sure it all lined up before you tore it apart?? You could have had it off by a tooth or two on top of all your issues.


Just ordering new rings may not be enough. Also, why did you purchase a turbo rebuild kit -- do you have excessive shaft play, or oil leakage from the center cartridge, or oil on the exhaust wheel? Do you have wheel damage?


You are jumping the gun a little fast. You might want to work on the engine first and get it back up to par.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

no.. im not jumping the gun.. ... the turbo had oil where the air goes through it...so i just did the smart thing and rebuilt it before something bad happened... and im not just getting new rings... im getting a new oil pump, ALL gaskets for the whole car, new bearings, valve seals, balance shaft removal kit...

yes, I lined up the timing and marked the sprockets and all that....its going to be fine when im done... i just had the master mechanic father look at everything and he said it will be fine with what I am doing... now that I am in the motor, what i am doing is not that big a deal.... if i just take my time and do everything by the book, nothing will go wrong... like my friend always says... "RTFM bi+ch!!" (RTFM=Read The F***ing Manual)

Is getting the timing back together and all lined up really that big of a pain in the arse? its def. not a honda... i could rip a B-series apart in my sleep..

 

[twicks69]

no.. im not jumping the gun.. ... the turbo had oil where the air goes through it...so i just did the smart thing and rebuilt it before something bad happened...

Well, you will have oil residue on the compressor side of the turbo from a few different things -- if you have an aftermarket "oiled" filter like a K&N, this would leave oil residue if oiled too much. Also, if your stock intake pipe is being utilized with the breather tubes still attached from the valve cover to your intake pipe. Both of these will give you oil on the compressor side. You need to look more at the turbine side (exhaust side) for oil burns or residue along with the seals between the compressor and exhaust housings and the center cartridge, along with shaft play and wheel damage. If there is no oil staining/burning/residue on the turbine side, it more than likely isn't blown -- especially if it doesn't have shaft play or wheel damage.

Is getting the timing back together and all lined up really that big of a pain in the arse? its def. not a honda... i could rip a B-series apart in my sleep..

Here is an excellent technical writeup for timing belt installation and alignment from VFAQ:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

This should answer all your questions regarding the timing belt install.

For the oil pump and BSE kit install: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

Another great tech writeup from VFAQ.

If you haven't been to VFAQ before, you should spend a few hours getting aquainted with it, since it is just as important or more important than your mechanics manual; it has better pictures, along with frequent problem diagnosis with our vehicles.

Again, Good luck!

 

[lillev23]

If you decide to rebuild the bottom end, Autozone sells a bottom end gasket kit that replaces all gaskets, seals, and crush washers below the deck of the block. It's like $26. Ask for the 1990 Eagle or mitsu conversion gasket kit.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

well.. I already ordered the kit... o well

the turbo was SOAKED in oil on the inside... it wasnt residue... i could have poured a cup of it and drank what came out of the air side of the turbo.... it needed a rebuild

 

[twicks69]

well.. I already ordered the kit... o well

the turbo was SOAKED in oil on the inside... it wasnt residue... i could have poured a cup of it and drank what came out of the air side of the turbo.... it needed a rebuild

Ok -- but just remember -- you had EXCESSIVE blowby from dead rings -- i.e. more positive crankcase pressure, resulting in more blowby of oil through the vent tubes from the valvecover to the intake pipe, resulting in lots of oil buildup.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

yea... but think about this...why just not worry about it and let it die in 10-20K miles or less, THEN having to do all that again, when I could just rebuild and balance the extra one that I had laying around for $150 and have it last upwards of 80k miles? ... taking it off wasnt hard, it just wasnt something I want to have to do again for a long time....

EITHER way... no matter what was leaking in the engine, its getting fixed anyway.... the kit im getting has a full gasket set and it comes with new valve seals... so everything is going to get fixed and/or replaced if it is needed.... I dont think im going to have a problem with it... i got the parts at a decent price, and if all goes well, I will have a reliable daily driver that passes smog; something i have not had in a LOOONNNGGG time.... my last car was a fully gutted 88 honda civic hatch with a built B16A in it... the car was savage, but it got old after a while and it was illegal to drive it cause it had no plates....

if I could show youse guyses pics of the motor, you would feel the same way.... there is NO internal damage to anything... it just leaks everywhere it can inside the motor... im going to bust out the camera later on and take some pics... i should have them up tonite....

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

well.. I just got my turbo stuff back from the machine shop... they hot tanked, glass peened, and balanced it for 70 bucks... not really that bad, and from what I hear, they are the best machine shop in the area... still waiting on my rebuild parts... today im going to disassemble the head so I can clean it... I WILL take pics of the build from this point forward...

Just a real quick question.. what can I do to MAKE SURE that I dont spin a bearing? i mean, just as long as the bearing surface is clean and the journals on the crank aren't damaged, then I should be good right?

OOO yeah... One more thing.... Haynes manuals suck!!! I just bought one at the local Autozone... I cannot find Chilton's or any other one.. Just Haynes... and its only about 1 inch thick... very unimpressed, but its giving me all the torque specs I need, so o well..

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

hehehehe..... 3 cracked pistons... all along the oil ring and the 2nd compression ring....

when I took the motor apart, I noticed that the waste gate vacuume line had been ran straight to the intake.. making it boost way to high for a stock fuel system... and it had to had just burnt the hell out of those pistons... but no fear!!!

Im getting some topline pistons, rings, and pins.... got the ARP... just need to put it back together....

still no pics... humboy's girlfriend jacked the camera...

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

super weak.... Im back.... the topline pistons have a 2 week back order... now Im going with wiesco 9.0:1 CR.... which will be better in the long run

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

JUST FINISHED THE MOTOR!!! Im going to post the pics after I start it tomorrow.... all I have to do is put the turbo on, Xfer case, Axel, and fuel rail.... then start her up....

wish me luck