Big T-28 on the way.. Now support mods

[95TSiNewbie]

Ok so I bought a turbo off DSMTrader that is hopefully a big t-28..... and was trying to get a good base down of what ill need in the future for supporting mods to increase boost.
I ordered a Walbro 190 for now till i have enough for a FPR and 255 if needed.
I know im going to need injectors... and to tune the fuel trims a AFC/Logger or DSMLink if I decide to turn up the boost (currently 14 if MBC is on). Anything else I need to add before hand?? My mods currently include 2.5" DP to 3" cat-back, UIC and LIC piping, 1g bov, Dual Stage MBC, 8.5mm plugs and NGK +1 colder plugs, 17" wheels and perf rubber. And all the maintance is current as of last week(oil / atf fluid / coolant / filters). Once again I hope its actually a t-28, if not i can get my money backf rom paypal(glad i have a business account with money back guarentee).
Thanks,
Bryan

*EDIT*
I also just replaced the timing belts/bearings, Water pump and Intake Mani Gasket.

 

[95TSiNewbie]

Heres what I was thinking I would need before any boost increase on t-28:
255 lph fuel pump and FPR
550's (or bigger??) injectors
AFC/Logger or DSMLink
FMIC???? do I need one yet? what boost can i run w/o?

 

[herostar]

you've got a decent start. As far as fuel mods, the 190 is more than enough fuel. Stockspyder dynoed 421awhp in his spyder with a 190lph pump. For fuel injectors, I say go for 660's. They give you more room for tuning, and if you decided you want a bigger turbo down the road, you won't have to upgrade injectors again. An safc/logger is deffinately the easiest/cheapest way to tune. I got my logger for a total of 100 dollars including the connector, and paid 170 for my safc, that beats the 650 for the dsmlink, plus a laptop. I wont' dog the dsmlink though, I wish I had the money for it. If you do, I'd suggest getting that because it's a much more powerful tuning tool. As far as a front mount goes... I say get one. It can only help you out. If you plan on running over 17psi you will need one because your stock intercooler will heat soak really bad. Good luck with your big28, have fun! I know I sure love mine!!!

 

[dave99gst]

Heres what I was thinking I would need before any boost increase on t-28:
255 lph fuel pump and FPR
550's (or bigger??) injectors
AFC/Logger or DSMLink
FMIC???? do I need one yet? what boost can i run w/o?

sounds like a plan to me - if ya get a 255 non HP and dont re-wire it - ya can
prob get by with out a FPR

 

[spoolup]

660s and piggy backs are a pain to tune right, 550's are plenty, then sell them when you buy the bigger turbo and better fuel tuning (DSM link). With my Stock side mount, 580, SAFC logger, ect. I ran 17 PSI regularly. It would spike a bit due to the MBC, so I got a prof B (Greddy) and the FP 17 PSI WG acuator, which helped alot. At 17 PSI I had really no problems on 91 pump pee, but DESTROYED my clutch when I put some 110 in and bumped it a few PSI more (but the stock clutch lasted 90,000 miles so I know it was going to go soon). But with the FMIC I run 18.5 PSI, holds descent till 5500 or so then drops off, but the air flow still increases. Its one hell of a turbo so I really agree with herostar. So lets see here:

190 walbro
550 or so
logger/ SAFC (cheapest) or DSM link
FP 17 PSI actuator<--- HIGHLY RECOMMEND

I am trying to run 13.0 this friday on drag radials (FWD at 4200 ft elevation) the previous owner ran 12.7 on slicks FWD, same elevation. Needless to say, This turbo is SWEET.

 

[95TSiNewbie]

Thanks for the replys guys,I ordered the 190 like i said and when I have the money i think im going to go this route:
550's, afc/logger and a 17psi actuator (sounds like it would help). Hope fully i can get this all under 600.... then when i have money again down the road get a FMIC before i turn up the boost.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

you've got it right. only thing is a 255 really is unecessary. a 190 is usually more than enough for moderate boosting. with just a fuel pump and the t28 you'll be able to safely push 15- 16 psi.

wait for 550's/safc/fmic before turning up the boost before you blow the motor [ but you already know that ]

good luck and i bet you'll cream yourself on the first ride with the new turbo :laugh:

 

[95TSiNewbie]

Next question..... How hard will it be for me to install these parts?? Everything on my car now I have installed myself. I guess my big concern right now is the turbo. How hard is it to do in my garage on jack stands?? Do i need to take the exhaust mani off too?? I'll try to search for more info.
Thanks again,
Bryan Tracy

 

[spoolup]

a descent set of hand tools is all that is needed. If your turbo has never came off before and you still have a stud in the manifold to turbo, it is best to just pull the mani with the turbo as one piece. Just undo the oil return line at tthe turbo and leave it connected at the oil pan so you dont need to drain the oil. drain teh coolant, (there is alot of coolant in the turbo line becareful). seperate teh oil supply line behind the turbo against the block. unbolt teh Downpipe to O2 housing. then disconnect the os sensor (left side of head as looking at your engine from the front then the manifold from the head. Its easier to reomve the rad since its only 4 bolts anyways. Get some good antisieze when putting everything together. Also a NICE 14mm 6POINT socket to seperate the mani to turbo bolts with out damaging them. really easy to do. Just take your time and double chekc yourself. There is also a VFAQ that explains it, (16G or somehting, but most the stuff is similar)

 

[cuttheduck]

Pb blast the exhaust mani/turbo bolts for like a week straight before you leave to work in the morning

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Pb blast the exhaust mani/turbo bolts for like a week straight before you leave to work in the morning

also PB blast them when your car is cooled over night

bt28 install should be a breeze; 3 / 10 difficulty rating
fuel pump i coulda done sleeping 1/ 10; just be cautious around that fitting down under the car, and trust me, you want to disconnect the pump from under the car, not the one in the cabin

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

also PB blast them when your car is cooled over night

bt28 install should be a breeze; 3 / 10 difficulty rating
fuel pump i coulda done sleeping 1/ 10; just be cautious around that fitting down under the car, and trust me, you want to disconnect the pump from under the car, not the one in the cabin

would barley rate my b16g install as a 3/ 10(but I had a lift and my tool box is loaded ) and I had to bend water lines and install braided oil lines and port. All the stuff you mentioned is easy with hand tools, just disconnect the battery and go to town. The only hard part will be tunning, that youll need a professional; and a dyno to do it right.
Andrew

 

[IMMORTALSPYDER]

You won't need a SAFC, bigger injectors, FMIC or a 255 to run that turbo. You'll only need it if you start to run alot of boost. Even then the 190 will be enough, especially if you rewire it.

Supporting mods needed:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69990

If you wanna raise the boost:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101397

Good luck, and the install isn't too bad for the turbo. Just order a bolt to replace the stud holding on your turbo to the manifold

 

[blcknspo0ln]

i guess I underrated the difficult there, but thats because i've done the install and removal quite a few times

 

[midnght]

The turbo CAN be a quick install (2 hours) or it can be a total pain.

Taking my car from stock to the EXACT current state took all of 5 hours. Turbo to Suspension, but it is just a case by case situation. If you have never done it before it could take longer than you think.

Remember to get ALL of the fluids before you start, OIL,Filter, Coolant or you will be making more than 1 trip to the parts store. 1 trip is almost a garentee (sp).

 

[95TSiNewbie]

Should i just pay for someone to do the install for me?? I have friends that can help but this is currently my only car and need it everyday for work. It sounds like the best way is to take out the radiator and unbolt the mani from the motor (and of course all the water/oil lines). Can I pick up the bolts needed from an auto supply store or no?? Or should i order some and wait to do the install just in case? Im getting scared now.
Thanks again for all the input,
Bryan

 

[midnght]

Should i just pay for someone to do the install for me?? I have friends that can help but this is currently my only car and need it everyday for work. It sounds like the best way is to take out the radiator and unbolt the mani from the motor (and of course all the water/oil lines). Can I pick up the bolts needed from an auto supply store or no?? Or should i order some and wait to do the install just in case? Im getting scared now.
Thanks again for all the input,
Bryan

The install can be done without removing anything but the coolant lines to the turbo, oil feed/return line from the turbo, the 4 bolts from the turbo-to-manifold, and the o2 housing-to-DP bolts. It is easier to get around without the fans in the way, they are simple to remove.


The bolts can be purchased here or most other DSM shop.

If you have some friends to help, get them. 2 sets of eyes and hands are better than 1.

 

[midnght]

O, and unbolting the manifold from the block could turn out to be MORE than you want to haggle with. Manifold-to-block bolts that have been in place for a LONG time tend to NOT want to come out. That can be a REAL PAIN IN THE ASS.