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Balance shaft timing?

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Alex7747

10+ Year Contributor
1,050
5
Sep 27, 2010
Hesperia, California
Okay i looked around in my haynes manual and i couldnt find this info. When im installing the timing belt, in the rear of the block to check if the balance shaft is timed. Should a screwdriver be about 26mm deep or should the screwdriver go deeper then 60mm??.
Sorry if this doesnt make any sense. I havent slept in 27 hours haha.
 
Just take the balance sprocket, put it so that it's lined up with the timing arrow. Now let it go, it should "fall" counter clockwise. If it "falls" clockwise then spin it 180 degrees again. Now you've got it timed!
 
I just tried that and its not really falling. I line it up and it sits there. I spin it 180 degrees and it still sits there.
 
Does it move at all? It should. It'll kind of roll one way or the other. It shouldn't stay perfectly lined up.
 
Its stays perfectly lined up...if i turn it a little counter clockwise it continues to fall counter clockwise..is that correct?
 
Put the timing mark of the oil pump sprocket straight up, not on it's respective mark, then let it fall and see which way it goes. If it falls counter clockwise your good, if not, turn it 180 degrees and try again.
Check the timing belt vfaq at vfaq.com and it will guide you step by step on how to do your timing belt job properly.
 
You need to turn it 360* and try again. If the timing mark falls toward the mark on the block then you are good to go. For every 360* that the sprocket turns, the balance shaft turns 180*.
 
Nevermind, it is a full 360 degree turn to get the mark back straight up.
 
Okay i did what you guys said and i timed it when it fell counter clockwise...
One more question, i did the timing belt and the bottom lines up good and the cams are off by like 1/2 a tooth. Would that make my motor run like crap?
 
To answer your original question, the screwdriver should definitely go in deeper than 26mm which is only about 1 inch. Keeping the screwdriver in there until you've installed the belt gives extra insurance that the rear BS wont move.

For some reason, some oil pump sprockets don't move very much when released from the 12 o'clock position. The screwdriver method is the most reliable way. It should be able to go in quite deep.
 
Not too sure. When I did mine, all marks lined up perfectly. But I also used the jay racing timing belt tools kit to do it. I think when you time the cams, you have to account for the exhaust cam to move a little, and when you set the tension it should line up. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong as I'm just mentioning all this off the top of my head. But vfaq.com has a guide on how to do the tbelt job properly.
 
Not too sure. When I did mine, all marks lined up perfectly. But I also used the jay racing timing belt tools kit to do it. I think when you time the cams, you have to account for the exhaust cam to move a little, and when you set the tension it should line up. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong as I'm just mentioning all this off the top of my head. But vfaq.com has a guide on how to do the tbelt job properly.

I've done & redone my timing about 7 times in the last year - :banghead:

The drop & spin counter clockwise on the oil pump hasn't failed me yet, and as far as the half a tooth on the cam sprocket, I had same situation. A couple of times I did what he said above & turned the exhaust cam just enough to compensate. When you do your initial rotations to check all lines up, things should be looking good.

Good luck...
 
Okay i didnt want to start a new thread so ill add on to my old one...
I finished my timing. It all lined up perfect after i redid it. I drove it around for a little. Car ran great other then a boost leak(not sure if thats the problem, but thats another story for another day LOL).

My question is, why doesn't my timing belt stay tensioned!?? I've done my timing belt maybe 4 times. I've looked around and some say that its normal but i just dont feel confident driving the car like that. It tensions when i start the car and turn it off. But i wait a while and it has some slack on the timing belt...im just scared to keep driving it around like that. Any ideas?
 
As the engine, and timing belt reach operating temperature things get bigger.

heat expands, cold contracts.

The timing belt should have some deflection when warmed up.
Check it cold, then drive it around, check it again. (warmed up)
Check it when it's cold again, if it's the same as the first time, I wouldn't worry too much.
 
Okay ill try that when i get home from work. Before i left the belt was extremely loose. Makes me want to buy another tensioner Haha.

Btw tc, thanks for the Intercooler. I have it mounted on the car and driving it now :D. I just have a boost leak or the Crapy ebay bov i bought is leaking. I learned my lesson Haha
 
OEM tensioner? Where is the slop when the cars off, between the cam gears? If so this slop is normal, thats just typically how all the components come to rest from running. That is of course, if you auto tensioner is set correctly & when your redoing or re-checking your timing the auto tensioner is still in the correct position (you can slide the gernade pin back in?). If the auto tensioner is no longer sitting in the correct position, you haven't set the tensioner pulley correctly.
 
Yeah when i turn it off to check. It's loose between the cam gears. But today it was really loose. Like maybe 1/2" up and down(didnt measure it because i was in a hurry). And when i timed it, I cranked it over by hand six full turns to get it all lined up again. And i could still put the grenade pin back in..
 
Okay ill try that when i get home from work. Before i left the belt was extremely loose. Makes me want to buy another tensioner Haha.

Btw tc, thanks for the Intercooler. I have it mounted on the car and driving it now :D. I just have a boost leak or the Crapy ebay bov i bought is leaking. I learned my lesson Haha

Thank you for the Dash :thumb:

Hit me up if you're still interested in those rims..too bad they Fit 4 lug Hondas.
 
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