Bad clutch pedal assembly?

[nelliott500]

New clutch, new lightweight flywheel, rebuilt trans, new fork, new OEM TOB. Currently, the clutch grabs just a bit off the floor. I got under the dash to start adjusting and figured I would check to see if my pedal assembly is bad (yay 1G).

I'm worried the assembly might be bad. Here's a quick video of me pushing the pedal in, letting it out, then I can still pull it back up a bit:

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[ame=[MEDIA=youtube]VzFSexsND2E[/MEDIA] Pedal - YouTube[/ame]

Typical signs of a bad assembly, yeah?

Also, I snapped a picture of where the master rod is currently adjusted to (yes, I know the jam nut is loose). Unless I'm mistaken, the rod shouldn't be adjusted out (in?) so far that there's only a few threads left.

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I want to drive this car so bad. Adjusting the clutch is the last thing I need to do.

 

[nelliott500]

Thanks, Paul. I appreciate the help. I played around with the assembly a little more today and I now see the issue and how it needs to be welded. I can simulate it being welded by holding the pedal where it needs to be and torquing the end nut real well. When I do that, the pedal loses all of the play and it pushes and releases the way it's supposed to.

I'm actually going to put together a video in a little while to show the assembly out of the car, how you can see the play, etc., since I had so many issues figuring out this problem.

 

[okcummins]

You would want to push the lever forward or toward the firewall as if it were installed in the car. That would give you the most travel. I don't recommend welding it with the nut on. I have found its best to cut the threaded section from the clutch pedal shaft and weld the lever directly to the shaft of the clutch pedal. Just make sure not to cut off the flats that the lever keys into. When you weld over the nut you really can't weld the shaft to the lever. Your stuck welding the nut to the lever and the tiny part of the threads to the other end of the nut. I have seen it fail that way.

 

[kchaazz]

Thanks, Paul. I appreciate the help. I played around with the assembly a little more today and I now see the issue and how it needs to be welded. I can simulate it being welded by holding the pedal where it needs to be and torquing the end nut real well. When I do that, the pedal loses all of the play and it pushes and releases the way it's supposed to.

I'm actually going to put together a video in a little while to show the assembly out of the car, how you can see the play, etc., since I had so many issues figuring out this problem.

Don't weld the worn crap, itll just twist. The right way is to put new stuff together with the bronze bushings and weld it. Also, if you were to weld the worn stuff, you would want to have the pedal all the way in the "up" position, and the lever pushed as far forward (think toward the firewall) as you can and then weld it. Problem is, the worn stuff, even when welded, will wear out quickly as well. Im actually going to be on my THIRD rebuilt and welded assembly soon, and these all were rebuilt with new parts, bronze bushings, and welded by a reputable company and all of them twisted up in short order. This is likely because of my ACT 2600 pressure plate, but I wont know for sure until I change the clutch and send the plate to be tested to see just how much force at the pedal was required to actuate the plate. As it stands, this will be the...... 10th or so time that Ive done the pedal assembly and let me tell ya Im so sick of it I just want to burn the car to the ground....

 

[JESSE91]

hey im new to dsm I just got a 1992 tsi and I pulled the pedal asem and that arm is rounded where can I buy a new arm and brass bushings

 

[MitsuRu]

I had to install a push clip in mine where it contacts the switch to start it.Had to push it hard to the floor to get it to work.Just glad my clutch pedal is fine was told it's a pain to replace the whole assembly.

 

[tmoney20g]

hey im new to dsm I just got a 1992 tsi and I pulled the pedal asem and that arm is rounded where can I buy a new arm and brass bushings

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=117

 

[JESSE91]

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=117

Thanks man I got one and welded it up its perfect

 

[tmoney20g]

Good to hear, I'll be welding mine this weekend.

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

New clutch, new lightweight flywheel, rebuilt trans, new fork, new OEM TOB. Currently, the clutch grabs just a bit off the floor. I got under the dash to start adjusting and figured I would check to see if my pedal assembly is bad (yay 1G).

I'm worried the assembly might be bad. Here's a quick video of me pushing the pedal in, letting it out, then I can still pull it back up a bit:

[ame=[MEDIA=youtube]VzFSexsND2E[/MEDIA] Pedal - YouTube[/ame]

Typical signs of a bad assembly, yeah?

Also, I snapped a picture of where the master rod is currently adjusted to (yes, I know the jam nut is loose). Unless I'm mistaken, the rod shouldn't be adjusted out (in?) so far that there's only a few threads left.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I want to drive this car so bad. Adjusting the clutch is the last thing I need to do.

Before you pull the assembly out check the left end of the shaft above the coiled spring. 14mm nut may be loose. Put pedal up and tighten it. If it's already tight it may be worn out. In the up position watch the spring as you slowly push down the pedal. The spring ought to start moving immediately. If it doesn't then most likely the end of the assembly is worn out under the 14mm nut. If it does move immediately then your problem is air in the system or bad CMC or slave. That looks adjustment is about right

Not that this helps you at all, but . . .
In my opinion, Mitsu really lamed out on that design. If memory serves, neither the lever or the shaft it's supposed to mate with are actually precision machined. The lever hole is punched out and the shaft is roll formed or some such. And these parts are then asked to match exactly? Give me a friggin' break Mitsu. It's nothing more than pure luck those pedals assemblies didn't have to be replaced under warranty for thousands of cars. Notice how they changed the design for the 2g's though. No way that was just a coincidence.
Anyway, sorry for the mostly irrelevant post. Rant off.

Over time all the vibration from the mods loosen that bolt and if unchecked can cause the parts wear out. I took my assembly out today to find exactly this scenario. The bolt on the end of the shaft was loose only allowing half the normal CMC movement. Clutch wouldn't disengage