2G AWD steering knuckle compatability

[turtlebain]

Guys -

My axle is badly seized into the steering knuckle on the drivers side. Trying to figure out a few things.

I have a 98 GSX Manual Trans..

Would the 2G AWD *Auto* axles work?
Would steering knuckles from FWD turbo or NA cars work too? Which other cars would I be able to swap from?

Thanks. I've been searching for the answer but can't seem to find it.

 

[Slid3RMonk3y]

Just a quick glance but i think this may help

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420577-2g-front-knuckle.html

good luck

 

[estoyaqui30]

The axles should be seized into the wheel bearing/hub. You don't need the whole knuckle, remove it from the car and cut the CV boot on the outer joint and remove the axle from the CV joint. Then remove the 4 bolts from the back of the wheel bearing/ hub assembly and remove the hub, then just replace the hub assembly and your good to go. I'm pretty sure that the axles are different between manual and auto. You might be able to get a used replacement from Miller Imports in NC. They are listed on tuners. You could get a new from CV kit from JNZ tuning and fix your existing axle.

 

[turtlebain]

Already cut the CV boot, already removed it from the car. I got the bolts out from the bearing hub and it still wouldn't separate. After taking a pry bar and hammer to it for about 5 minutes. It seems to be stuck together in out piece. Also tried heating up the hub to red hot with oxyacetylene. It never got red but it may have still warped the bearing hub. I took the whole knuckle over to my mechanic and he said I'd likely need to replace the whole thing. I don't think the knuckle itself has anything wrong with it but I can't get them apart at this point anyway.

 

[estoyaqui30]

Okay, I'm fairly sure you can get a good deal on the knuckle as a "recall kit" from JNZ tuning. You will still need the new bearing and an outer CV kit (outer spline cup, boot, grease and clamps). I know that they can get fairly stuck.. I've seen them removed with an air chisel. I would be careful about heating some suspension parts as that can change the temper of the metal.

 

[turtlebain]

Great - I'll take a look for that JNZ kit when I get back to the house. Wasn't all too excited about pulling one from the junkyard and having that same problems.

As for the spline.. I've completely trashed two breaker bars getting the axle nut off - should've known I'd have problems right there. Then I tried an axle puller and all that did was completely trash the puller threads, started splitting the axle in half like a log. Also completely ruined the wheel studs where the puller mounted. I tried the puller with a 3/4 " breaker bar with a 4 ft extension rod. ITS BEEN A GOOD TIME!

 

[88blazer1297]

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I have had good luck removing the whole assembly and pressing the axle out this way with my cheap harbor freight press. Most of the time nothing gets damaged. The last one I did was a rear axle on my 95 GSX it was the worst. I had to heat the hub with a torch and use the press at work to put 25 Tons of pressure on the axle to get it out. the bearing is notchy now when you spin it and I had the chase the threads on the axle shaft.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I forget, but I think that the "recall kit" had a knuckle and the lower control arm with the ball joint. One suggestion that I learned over the years....copper anti seize! Use it to coat every exterior bolt that you ever remove/install, it will make your life much better. Coat the splines before you put the axle back in too.

 

[Insane20]

I burned mine out of the hub. Then replaced the axle/ wheel bearing/ hub. No need to replace the knuckle.

 

[turtlebain]

Well to my surprise, even after heating the bearing is silky smooth. I'm thinking it'll be worth it to at least attempt pressing this thing out. For the time being I searched for the internet's most hardcore penetrating solvent and decided to brew up a batch of "weasel piss" - that's 50% acetone and 50% ATF! Supposedly this works twice as well as any off the shelf WD40 or PB Blaster. Think I'll let that set in for a bit.

 

[turtlebain]

Wanted to update this - I was not able to get the axle / hub off the knuckle, I took it to a machine shop where the machinist was not able (or willing) to get it apart either. Solution was a new OEM knuckle kit from extremepsi. Here's the details for a 2g AWD. They say it works for both ABS & non-ABS, my car is factory ABS that has been deleted, so I don't think that would matter anyway. But for anyone looking for the information later

MItsubishi Part # MR325010 -OEM Front Passanger Knuckle Kit
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22826&cat=0&page=1

MItsubishi Part # MR325009 -OEM Front Driver Knuckle Kit
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22827&cat=0&page=1

 

[daren_p]

They say it works for both ABS & non-ABS, my car is factory ABS that has been deleted, so I don't think that would matter anyway. But for anyone looking for the information later

Correct, it won't matter for you & for others, the knuckles will work for either setup. The knuckles are the same except the factory non ABS cars are normally missing a hole where the ABS sensor gets installed on ABS equipped cars. If your car has ABS, you install the sensors, if you have a non ABS car, you leave the sensor holes empty.

 

[Michael Cusimano]

I just went through this exact same thing. Jaw puller split the axle like a banana peel then tried to get it pressed that failed hit it with a pry bar and a torch. Ended up having to order the replacment from extremepsi comes with the lower control arms for 125