AWD energy suspension master bushing set HELP

[alexg1323]

I just removed the entire rear suspension off my 95 AWD too install the energy suspension master bushing set. I have taken the control arms now to a few places who say they cannot press the old bushings out and the new 1 piece bushings will tear during install. So how do i get them in? Anyone else who has done this install on a 2g please let me know how to remove and install these bushings as im not going anywhere till its done.

 

[Nanan]

If you cant press them out then the only other real way is to burn them out with a torch.

I dont know about tearing the bushings but I guess its posable if you dont clean up the holes well enough.

 

[alexg1323]

can i press the new ones in with maybe blocks of wood and a c clamp or vise? I didnt realize no shop would want to tackle the control arms. The shop that tried removing a bushing for me didnt even finish one as they said there press was distorting the arma nd they didnt want to damage it.

 

[BaddAssGst]

I think your going to need a torch to get the old ones out. You might even need to use a
acedeline torch to get them hot enough. It might not smell to good though.

 

[snox135]

You can use a torch or a Dremel tool to cut them out. When reinstalling them you can try a c-clamp but I would find a press. Make sure you lube the bushing and the control arm very well before attemping insertion.

 

[Module Unknown]

So whatever happened with this? Did you end up getting those bushings in? How?

I'm wondering the same thing. I just got the ES kit and I don't see how you can press those one piece bushings with a larger outside lip than the diameter of the hole into wherever without tearing or damaging them.

 

[alexg1323]

lets see the end result after buying a $80 overhaul polyurethane bushing kit was another $1000 spent on replacement parts on my rusted and siezed suspension. My rear axles were hopelessly rusted into the hub assy. By the time they were pressed out i need new hubs and axles, including the LSD axle that no aftermarket company produces. Along with many bolts rusted into the bushings metal sleeve. And thats just the back. Major major project for a 95 michigan car but major gains too.


You might not have it as bad but you can do all the bushings at home. Burn out the rubber with a propane torch or whatever you have enough to twist out the sleeve with channel locks. then insert hack saw blade and connect to saw. Saw out portions of the outer metal sleeve without damaging the casting (or as best as possible) one you get one or two good slits in the sleeve you can hammer it out with a screwdriver and mallat. Then clean the ID well and deburr. One side is chamfered that is the side you will press the bushing in from. Using two blocks of wood in a vice and learning how the bushing wants to push away from the hole you compensate by moving the casting. Nice to have 2 people for that step. Takes alot of time. I wouldnt recommend doing this if its something you can fix by taking your bolts out of your factory bushings to free and siezure. Or if you have blown out bushings

 

[jtmcinder]

All of the larger bushings in the new version of the ES kit are multi-piece (just like a Prothane kit). Only the small ones are one-piece and it isn't that hard to press them in with a bench-vise.

- Jtoby

 

[Module Unknown]

Well I must have gotten a box that had been sitting around for a while since all of mine (including the largest one) are one piece.

I guess it can be done though. Doesn't sound like fun... I think my plan will be to just take the parts off the car, get the old bushings and metal ring/sleeves out at home using whatever means necessary and take the parts and new bushings somewhere that has a press.

This almost sounds like something I might be willing to pay someone else to do. hehe.

 

[SleeperG]

i lined up each factory bushing on my vise over the anvil part of the vise. then i sized up each bushing(outer sleeve) and found a socket that matched it( i used my 1/2" drive sockets). then i took a small 3lb sledge (and a pair of ear plugs) and started tapping the old bushing and sleeve out as one piece. not too bad actually and you don't have the horrible mess to clean up afterwards.

i did ever last one except the lateral control arm bushing in the rear this way(had to dremmel that one out cause i didn't have a large enough socket)
after you get a clean removal of every bushing, just lube up your bushing and the bore of the suspension part, and use the vice to drive it in. you will get to a part where the bushing is mostly in but starts to compress cause it cannot go further. at this point you just use your hands to push it the rest of the way(just a little bit of thumb power gets it through)
then lube up the inner bore of the bushing and slide that sleeve in real Nice via the vice.
thats all thats too it.
the first couple you tap out may feel awkward cause your technique is poor, but when you get them moving you will figure out exactly what to do. once you figure it out, they'll come out pretty quick. you can use a regular hammer but they will take longer cause you are swinging less mass. just tap away and they'll give.

i did the front one weekend, then the rear the next.
best thing i ever did for my suspension. responsiveness is through the roof.

check out the vfaq on the font camber kit install to see what I'm talking about

 

[MNGSX]

Get a air hammer and good a bit set that fits it.

I used a bit that was round on one side but a triangle on the other...

Put the round side against the bore the sleeve is in and wail on the sleeve with the bit.

Some will push out.. Do a diagonal x cross around the sleeve... If one is a b word you will split in in half length wise.. From their just curl the split inward on itself untill it drops out.

On either the new or old version going out is harder than going in.

Inserting the 1 piece bushings was a cake walk.... Shutting off the torch and using the air hammer was smart because it stunk less.. was faster and safer plus I could do things like the spindles still on the car.