1G Auto-full line pressure @ WOT

[rtincher22085]

I would like to do the line pressure mod to my auto. I want it to have max pressure at WOT. i understand i need a switch setup on the throttle like a nitrous switch. I have yet to install my Translab shift kit. Should I just do the shift kit and adjust the pressure on the valve body in the instructions? It's going to be a DD and I don't want harsh shifts all the time. I want basicly a sleeper. I Just want my lock ups when its go time. My car is bone stock outside and modded under the hood. Any idea's or references to help me achieve this would be great. thanks guys

 

[1badpurple]

There is a way to wire it on a relay and using a activation switch so its just full line pressure at WOT. Me personally I'm low tech, I just have mine on a switch.

 

[rtincher22085]

what do mean a switch? resisteor? relay ?

I am low tech too! But I would like the WOT situation Anyone have a shematic or a picture or setup process? I can read but I'm the type that has to see it to understand the process so I can't screw it up. I have been thinking about it and I'm just confused. Do I have add a resistor and hook a switch to the throttle so it activates at 3/4 to WOT and hook up the relay so it simulates me splicing in the resistor to the blue wire? Any insight or better idesa on how to accomplish this project would be great. Again I'm making it a sleeper and doing this with less money involved as possible to see what I can make for power and to stomp the new Hemi callenger. I have been reading and there are ways to do this but I want my tcu to take over normal driving conditions for reliability sake. Also it will help me better to decide if i want to install my translab shift kit or not. the WOT way I can reverse easily, the shift kit i cannot. Reviews on the shift kit welcomed.

 

[1badpurple]

You have to use a resistor. You ground the resistor to the chassis and hook it to the blue wire. Basically to use it only at WOT you use a relay triggered by a WOT switch. I use a 3 way switch on mine. One way it hooks up as it was stock and in the other position it runs to the resistor. Be prepared however using the resistor that it will shift alot sooner. Mine shifts around 5800 on the resistor I believe.

 

[rtincher22085]

Is it possible to get some pictures of the switch you used and the relay used and what it looks like all hooked up? it would be the bomb

 

[1badpurple]

You just use the run of the mill relay. You can get these from any autoparts store. The WOT is a nitrous activation switch on a bracket.

Here is a link to a relay kit with the switch. Nitrous Express 15504 Nitrous Express Wide Open Throttle Switch

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Here is your link for switching back and forth from normal line pressure to full line pressure.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...iews/286205-diy-1g-clutchless-manual-mod.html

 

[1badpurple]

^ Thanks! I couldn't find the link to that.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Another thing you could do is use a hobbs switch and a relay for the "blue wire mod." This way it will have full line pressure at and above a given amount of boost while still retaining lower pressure for cruise.

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

^ or even better... I've been playing around with the idea of using ECMLink v3's solenoid controls. For all you ECMLink users out there, with v3, you can use either the OEM fuel pressure control (warm start) or EGR solenoid's outputs from the ECU to fire the same "blue wire" relay I indicated in my write up. At that point there wouldn't be a need for the other "TPS" relay, unless you still wanted to slap-shift your A\T beast in a tip-tronic manner around town.

As it is right now, I ended up wiring both relays into the Econo side of the the PWR/ECO switch so I have both relays active whenever I switch it over to the ECO side & I want to play

 

[rtincher22085]

hobbs switch? any input thanks i'm still new

 

[rtincher22085]

I have drawn up a schematic to show how to wire up the hobbs or boost pressure switch to a relay to create the "blue Wire mod" under a desired boost condition here it is

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any input would be awsome i can draw up a better one but its good for now sorry for the poor excuse of a transmission

 

[1992awdlaser]

I can't see what everything says on there due to the size. Basically what you do is this:

Cut the blue wire
Hook the end coming from the tcu up to 30 on the relay
Hook the other end of the blue wire up to 87a on the relay
Hook 87 up to a ground
Hook one end of the hobbs switch up to power
Hook the other terminal of the hobbs switch up to 85 on the relay
Hook up 86 to a ground


That should do what you want.

 

[rtincher22085]

I don't need the resistor? Just ground the 87 terminal?

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

You will need the resistor in order to keep the TCU from throwing error codes. just wire it up like I have in my tech article like this... The only difference is the way that the mod is activated: In the diagram below, it shows a simple on/off toggle switch. In my write up, I went one step further by integrating it into the OEM PWR/ECO Switch.

 

[dsmer_1985]

I have the translab shift kit installed in my car, there should be different types of springs in the kit. Black being for the firmest shift and red being between stock and performance. I have used both, the red spring result does make a noticable difference in shifting. i will say great for sleeper mode but if you purchased the kit u might as well install it with max potential or your not getting your moneys worth. If you have the kit i dont see any reason to hack and cut up your wiring system i have seen this quite a bit and it doesnt ever turn out pretty. It always still looks hacked.

 

[1badpurple]

^ Sorry but all of the "fast cars" either shift by blue wire mod or by having line pressure turned up manually.

 

[rtincher22085]

I just cut the blue wire and put a male connector on the Tcu side and a female on th solenoid side so if I wanted to. Run back to stock I could just connect to normal and remove delay and switch and Viola stock again. So the shift kit with the blue wire a good idea or one or the other.

 

[knochgoon24]

You want the shift kit installed too. It eliminates or reduces some of the quirks the stock valve body has.

If you haven't already done so, look into getting a better transmission cooler too.

 

[rtincher22085]

ok what type of resistor do I use? I went to radioshack no dice whats compatable or able to trick this tcu? where can i get the 3.3 ohm and 10 watt resistor is that correct? I do have the shift kit haven't Installed it yet was doing some experimenting to use a hobbs switch to activate the line pressure. success but where the resistor is suppose to be I have it grounded it kicks full line pressure but it was a short run to see if it worked. Al is well shifts stock when driving normal. ButI d't want to runn it without a resistor.

what about hooking a potentiometer between the cut blue wire wouldnt that alter the wires reading to a lesser value creating the pressure solenoid to get a slow or less reading creating a firmer shift. depending on how much resistance/ turn you give the potentiometer? Just a thought a potentiometer is setup just like a TPS correct? The whole idea is to remove the Resistor completely. Thoughts?

 

[1badpurple]

There is no way to run it without the resistor. Just grounding the wire results with the tcu going into "limp mode". I got my resistor from radioshack. This is a tried and true way of doing it electronically. It simply just fools the tcu into thinking there is no pressure in the line. So auto increase of pressure happens.

 

[rtincher22085]

What did you use for a resistor in order for it to work correctly? Thanks for the info 1badpurple. I couldn't find a 3.3 ohm 10 watt is that the correct or is there a more available ready resistor to complete my circut? in any even I ordered this is it correct?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350376141502&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I can't see what everything says on there due to the size. Basically what you do is this:

Cut the blue wire
Hook the end coming from the tcu up to 30 on the relay
Hook the other end of the blue wire up to 87a on the relay
Hook 87 up to a ground
Hook one end of the hobbs switch up to power
Hook the other terminal of the hobbs switch up to 85 on the relay
Hook up 86 to a ground


That should do what you want.

Wouldn't I need a resistor to stop the tcu from going into limp mode? I did it your way the shifts were firm but jerked a bit and wouldn't shift. Thus I assumed 3rd gear the whole time I hit my boost level to trip the "Bue wire mod". It could have been my atf is low I will fill it to proper level and try agian tommarow will post my findings.

 

[1badpurple]

limp mode is caused by the circuit not being complete. That does appear to be the correct resistor. radio shack does normally have them, but they normally do not have any idea what you are talking about.

 

[rtincher22085]

I looked myself hmmm i'm from a small town in maine and our radio shack is half the size of a barber shop they had everything but the 3.3 10 watt