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ARP Head Stud 2 Questions

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92Talon251

15+ Year Contributor
220
0
Sep 26, 2003
Fayetteville, North Carolina
When installing ARP head studs is it required to clean out the holes, mine have oil in them. Should I clean out the holes before installing the lube and torquing them.

Also my dad said somthing about Lock Tight, he said the lube that comes with the ARP head studs may be some kinda Lock Tight. What is lock tight?


:talon:
 
make sure to use the lube, because if you dont, when you torque wrench it to 80 ft lbs, a lot of that force is just what is required to overcome the friction between the threads, instead of the force between the head and gasket....
 
Ok started installing ARP's headstuds today but have a problem. I used the lube and I can only get the bolts to go to 25 ft lbs. I cant get them to got any further if I try to I start to strip the allen head on top of the studs do they have to be 80 ft lbs ? The information says 80 ft lbs but I cant see any way to go that high with out causing serious damage. The allen head I am using is a 5mm allen head is this the right size allen? It fits but it acts like it wants to slip.


:talon:
 
92Talon,

You are just supposed to put the ARP's into the motor hand tight. Use the lube and the allen wrench to set them into the motor snug, then set the head gasket and head onto the studs, drop the washers over the studs then set the 12pt nuts on the studs and tighten them to 24ftlbs first then to 48ftlbs and finally about 80 to 85ftlbs. Then you are done. Put the valve cover on start the car let it get to operating temp, shut it off let it cool, pull the valve cover and re torque the APR's if needed.
 
I want to make sure I am reading this right. So I take the studs lube them put them in the motor hand tight, then snug the studs with a allen wrench. Then drop the HG on, then put the head on, and drop the washers on over that. Then follow that by putting the 12pt nuts on and torqueing the 12pt nuts to 24, 48, and then 80 to 85 ft lbs.

Also do I need to use the assembly lube on the treading where the 12pt nuts go?

:talon:
 
92Talon251 said:
I want to make sure I am reading this right. So I take the studs lube them put them in the motor hand tight, then snug the studs with a allen wrench. Then drop the HG on, then put the head on, and drop the washers on over that. Then follow that by putting the 12pt nuts on and torqueing the 12pt nuts to 24, 48, and then 80 to 85 ft lbs.

Also do I need to use the assembly lube on the treading where the 12pt nuts go?

:talon:

YES, put the lube on the side where the 12pt nuts will go also.
 
Yeah you got it. You are torquing the nuts on top, not the studs themselves. Make sure to follow the sequence in the haynes or chilton manual. Good luck with it.
 
One last question and I will get out of your hair, I promise 80 ft lbs of torque seems like alot of pressure. I am concerned about bowing or breaking the head since it is aluminum. My dad says it will bow or break for sure if I torque it to that amount. I am not trying to make a drag car, my car wont ever see close to 20psi. Do I have to use 80 ft lbs of torque on the 12pt nuts?

:talon:
 
92Talon251 said:
One last question and I will get out of your hair, I promise 80 ft lbs of torque seems like alot of pressure. I am concerned about bowing or breaking the head since it is aluminum. My dad says it will bow or break for sure if I torque it to that amount. I am not trying to make a drag car, my car wont ever see close to 20psi. Do I have to use 80 ft lbs of torque on the 12pt nuts?

:talon:
ARP studs are strong. 30,000 tensile strength. The block is strong too, and so is the head. No offense but your dad doesnt know. I torqued my arps to about 90ft lbs and so have millions of other people.
 
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