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ARP head bolts

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ali

15+ Year Contributor
342
1
Sep 20, 2006
Lincoln, Nebraska
I just got done putting my head on and I just want to know how much did you guys torque your heads down. I torqued mine to 75lb with ARP lube.
 
81 ft-lbs using the ARP molly lube, as per the ARP instruction sheet that came with my head studs. If you're using 30w motor oil torque to 100 ft-lbs.

I torqued mine to 81 ft-lbs initially with the ARP molly lube, then after heat cycling the engine several times I re-torqued them to 85 ft-lbs.

You can go more, as these specs are to 75% of the yield strength of the bolts. You can torque them tighter, but with the use of that molly lube, I see no need to go above 90 ft-lts. On the other hand, if you're using 30w motor oil for lube, then I would do an initial torque of 100 ft-lbs, then re-torque to 105 - 110 ft-lbs.

Also, measure the total length of the bolts and document them such that you can correlate the lengths to each individual stud. Every time you take the head off, re-measure and compare and that will give you an idea of how much your bolts stretched from torquing.
 
I did them at 87 ft lbs with the moly lube that comes with the ARP bolts. I also did them 5 times in sequence.
 
I burned a valve last summer and rebuilt the head, put in a new OEM headgasket, and ARPs. No copper spray. I used the ARP moly lube and torqued in steps 10, 20, 30, etc... up to 80. Then I started pushing coolant. So I torqued them all to 100 and haven't pushed a drop of coolant since at 25-30psi on my PTE 50-trim.
 
I have gone up to 30 psi on my FP3052 and my engine is still stout on 87 ft lbs. I too used Stock composite gasket. I washed the engine block surface and head surface with lots of acetone before I put it together to make sure theres no oil slick areas. I wanted the composite sticky material to stick.
 
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