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Glad to hear you're okay, that was my first thought was that it hit the cab!
 
And I've been outside in the weather replacing a destroyed safety nut on my lower control arm! :D
 
Lmao.

Well, I noticed a popping noise while I've been driving it so I decided it was time to look again. This time when I took the wheel off I noticed that the nut for the lower control arm was nearly backed off of it. Apparently the first time I looked, the lower control arm was pulled down so the nut was flush against the spindle. Anyway, I went to turn it and back it down to retorque it and it moved the whole balljoint. Wonderful. Put a jack stand under it - still seized on there and turning the ball joint. Learned a trick where you take a slab of wood and put it between the wheel well and where the steering arm connects to put even more weight on the ball joint - couldn't turn it at all then.

Heated the damn nut up not knowing it was a safety nut..-.- Melted the plastic onto the stud. I then got mad, put a 22mm wrench on it, smacked it as hard as I could, broke it loose. Stole one off of the red car, tossed on some blue loctite, torqued that bi*** down - no more popping.

For the record, luckily I pulled the car up the hill in the driveway. My yard was flooded and is still flooding a bit. There are water lines where grass/debris floated against the mid-mark of my truck tires.
 
My dash needs to be repainted. I was just going to wait and do it when I took my dash out.

My cutlass has a light that says LOW COOLANT that blinks At random on amd off when I know full well it's not low. I would unplug the sensor, but I think I would miss it. It kinda keeps me company at times LOL

Coolant level sensor my price 60$... #### that I let my temp gauge and heater tell me when I need coolant ;) :p haha
 
What did you change?

Learn from my experience, whenever you unplug anything, label it with frog tape or paint pen. Takes the guess work out of it.. There are a few plugs are the same on a 2g
 
Well everything has been plugged back in, brand new battery starter checks out its religiously grounded spent alot of time making sure it was grounded properly using my chiltons and haynes manual. I guess next step is detailed fuse check?

Changes-
New long block, nothing special just some forged internals
New Fp manifold
16g rebuild
PR Intercooler
all maintenance covered new belts pumps timing etc

only thing new electrical is battery which checks out at 12.4v

So any thoughts or ideas are welcome i was thinking maybe alarm system messin with me but idk?
I researched no start checklist but was trying to find a electrical path checklist :/

I guess an easier question would be what items would keep the power from getting to everything?
And thanks for any help!
 
Is the relay box like a 1g and have the hot cable ran to the battery? My buddy ran that as a ground once and i didn't get shit.

And definetly check your connections to make sure they are right.

It's nothing big a bet, just a simple mistake your not seeing
 
Google my friend

ETACS, the Electronic Total Automobile Control System

for those who don't feel like googling
 
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