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Removing the tensionor is possible yes, but belt should not be possible without removing the tensionor pulley, which means retorqueing the pulley. That is why mitsu came out with the tension release tool. The complete timing system on that engine is new and set properly, the $20 tool is the best idea to loosen the belt so u can prime off the oil pump sproket.
 
boosteclipse said:
Removing the tensionor is possible yes, but belt should not be possible without removing the tensionor pulley, which means retorqueing the pulley. That is why mitsu came out with the tension release tool. The complete timing system on that engine is new and set properly, the $20 tool is the best idea to loosen the belt so u can prime off the oil pump sproket.
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Eh? I can't say I agree with that one. You don't want your belt at maximum tension at all times, otherwise you promote belt-stretch which can throw things off pretty bad. I mean, sure there is a plus or minus in regards to tension, but that's what the timing tensioner is there for. Regardless of how tight that belt is, also, it will come off. Those pulleys and timing gears are very finely finished and slick as glass. With a perfectly tensioned engine you could even grab the belt on the cams and just pull towards the side of the car and slide the belt off. Don't do this though.

Thought you had died or something, by the way. Have someone wanting to buy your GST.
 
With the engine already out of the car - that'd be the best way. Go by the book!
 
boosteclipse said:
Everyone has their own opinion I suppose. Nah man not dead just working. Have plans for the gst, not up for sale at the moment, but if I change plans I'll let u know.
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Well look at it like this - We have likely the most highly modified, running 2G AWD's in the area. We have to be doing something right. :p

What've you got planned for that thing now?
 
boosteclipse said:
## probably right there :) , but comparing the talon the the gsx? :p . Planning on dissecting the gst to finally make me proud to look at the gsx.
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That Talon? Lawd no. I always have a project in the background. Do you really think that I could go without a 2.3 at any point in time? :p I have more than 1 DSM ya' know.

I see. Well, my friend is actually just looking for everything he needs for an Auto>Manual swap. You don't have a use for that, do you? :)
 
Hehe. I can't share that at the moment. :) You don't really think I just spent $3000 on the Talon alone, do you? Bwahaha. Can't have you showing me up.

I'll be coming out from behind the curtains not too long from now.
 
I put some grease in my oil pump (per balance shaft removal link from dsmtuners) is this sufficient? ?

XiKeiyaZI said:
Don't reuse a tensioner, though. well unless you personally purchased it, have had no issues, and when you go to remove it you can put the pin back in. But do not re-compress a tensioner with a vise. This is a terrible idea and will promote failure.

But yes. Pop the tensioner off, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley, and then remove the belt. It's rather easy. Once the timing tensioner is off there should be enough slack in the tensioner pulley to do this. Keep in mind that if needed, you can remove the grommet in the driver wheel well and get a bite on the tensioner arm with a breaker bar to lift the tensioner pulley enough to slide your timing tensioner back into place as it will likely not want to just bolt back on. :)
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Do not put it in a vice.......... SHIT! I guess I fudged up.........
 
Not for priming the engine before starting. Before you do the timing belt, you need to either use a drill and spin the oil pump at a high RPM to move oil through the system, or - if you have already done the timing you perform this trick -

1: Remove the nipple on the back of the intake manifold that the Brake Booster connects to
2: Remove the Oil Pressure sending unit (Bell)
3: Screw the Nipple from the intake manifold into the threads where the Oil Pressure Sending unit was
4: Using a hand pump (Purchased from any parts store), pump about 2 quarts into this nipple with the aid of a rubber hose
5: This will move oil through the system safely. When you see oil come up to the head, stop.
6: Replace the Nipple on the back of the intake manifold (Clean of course) as well as the sending unit
7: Your engine is now primed.
 
DSMBanditFZ6 said:
Oh. Ok. Il try that. Thanks"

But where is the oil pressure sending unit?
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See the bell with the single wire clip on it? That's the Oil Pressure Sending Unit.
 

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It screws directly into that bell or do I take it off? Also do I need the valve cover off to make sure?

Thanks"
 
Yes, remove the valve cover. And you also unscrew the sending unit. See in the picture how it has threads that thread into the oil filter housing? That's where the nipple screws in.
 
It screws directly into that bell or do I take it off? Also do I need the valve cover off to make sure?

Thanks"

Lol I got it. That's a sensor,.... duh!
 
Remove the engine, drop the 6 bolt in. Do the needed electrical changes. Done.
 
It's not as complicated as people make it, truly. The biggest issue is locating the engine mounts.
 
And the weird off chance that I reused the one that was one the motor I bought. (Oil filter housing) and it doesn't have a spot for tge oil pressure unit. What do I do then? And what year is tge housing??? And will my oil pressure gauge work?
 
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