another Fuel filter hard line stripped

[Archer Fabrications]

Not sure where to put this, but i went to replace the stock fuel filter with a fuel lab -8AN retaining the stock hard line at the bottom of the pump, well i cant get that F*cker off at all. and it ended up stripping the nut said eff it and put everything back how it was, i used a 19mm on the filter and 14mm on the lower nut, nothing, wouldn't budge. and i replaced this thing like 6 months ago.

any tips on how to get it off if its stripped so i can stick the -8AN adapter to it for my fuel lab filter?

or anyone have a wright up on running the -8AN from the pump assembly to the filter. i don't think it looks that complicated, but i have no idea which fittings to use (in degree angles) and how long the line needs to be from tank to filter location.

i've seen threads on how to mod for -8 from the filter itself.

here's where im at, do i replace the whole thing with -8 or do i try to finagle getting this stripped bi*** off.

id like to just get the hardline off if possible. but its in there good.

sorry for the stupid thread.

 

[agentorange313]

I feel like i post in ever fuel thread that has to do with AN fittings.

If you want to run for the pump back you need an 14mm 1.5 inverted flare to AN fitting. I dont think those fittings come in -8 never seen one in that size, only seen then in -6an size. That could be a dilema.

This thread is informative as far as what you need, thread pitches, and material:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/418328-fuel-system.html

Since the stock line fitting is "rounded" it seems like the best option is to replace the whole line. You could fine a stock fitting like the one you stripped, and just replace it, but I am sure they are hard to find since people throw them away when they upgrade their system. If you can find the fitting again what I would do it cut the stock line, remove the damaged fitting, slide a new one (or one that you found, IDK if they come new), and flare the line. I know I have an extra of those fittings, I removed my stock line and keep that PITA inverted flare to metric fitting.

 

[mchustle]

Why did you go with 8an instead of 6an? There is a nice write up for the 6an. You basically need the 6an line, I would get 15-20 feet to be safe, 2 straight 6an hose ends, a 90* 6an bulk head, and a 6an barb fitting. I guess if your filter is a 8an you could probly find a 6an-8an adapter or replace the parts I listed with 8an fittings.

 

[agentorange313]

Why did you go with 8an instead of 6an? There is a nice write up for the 6an. You basically need the 6an line, I would get 15-20 feet to be safe, 2 straight 6an hose ends, a 90* 6an bulk head, and a 6an barb fitting. I guess if your filter is a 8an you could probly find a 6an-8an adapter or replace the parts I listed with 8an fittings.

power goals dictate fuel line sizes.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Were you tightening it by mistake? Did you turn the hard line right and the filter left? Maybe you can get some vice grips on the hard line and crack it loose :\

I would get 15-20 feet to be safe

10ft is all you need and you'll end up with a foot extra. Also, I used the cheap earl's adapter which is not inverted with a ton of thread sealant...not a drop of fuel. But yeah the inverted flare is the way to go for ultimate peace of mind. I've never seen one in 8an though...

I would drill out the line on the sending unit, use a 90* 8an bulkhead and attach the fuel pump with hose and an 8an barbed fitting. Then run 8an line from the bulkhead to the filter.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

i was going lefty loosy on the nut it self. i have high power goals, reason for -8AN. i was thinking about doing this with a -6 fitting. and then using a -6 to -8 adapter and running -8 from the adapter to the rail and exiting -6 from rail to regulator. and then i guess stock hard line drain for now until i can finangle a -6 return. i guesss i could do the return and feed the same way as this in the pump? 20 ft sounds good. just incase i decide to do the return.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/370847-fuel-sending-unit-fitting.html post #18

not sure if having that would act as a restriction for my goals though. is it better to retain the pump connection to the hard line then weld -6 on top of the fuel pump sending unit? or is it better to get a -6AN bulk head and bard straight to the pump. id figure it wouldnt really matter if 1" of hard line was there since the pump outlet is the same size anyway.

or would that link and post #18 be fine for 800hp. im shooting for the 2g hx40 record goal at the moment is 9.9 1/4 mile

 

[c2ypt1c]

i was going lefty loosy on the nut it self.

The head on the hard line is facing up so it's actually righty-loosey when looking from above. Or another way to look at it is, the filter (19mm) is lefty-loosey, and apply counter force by turning the hard line (14mm) to the right.

Check this post out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153276889-post24.html

 

[Archer Fabrications]

its stripped now. the 14mm just slips. im at the point of replacing the whole thing.... if someone could answer my question above that would be sweet.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

What are the 4 lines I'm replacing that go to the sender unit?

Feed
Evap (vented)
Return
And what? Can these all be removed in place of a -8AN

I found some pieces at race parts soluaions to go -6 from pump to a 90* reducer to -8 and run my line from there. Do i place te new feed in the place of the old 4 hard lines?